Why run a regulated return style fuel system????
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,726
Likes: 5
From: Slatington, PA
Ok, this is what i've drawn up.
My plan is to do the in tank mod, remove the quick disconnects in the fuel line, and then setup the rest like the picture. I doubt I'll need the 30 micron filter after the pump, but both inline filters have washable stainless steel filters, so they'd help keep the stock filter cleaner for longer. The green line would have a small orifice and possibly a check valve to bleed off pressure when the truck is shutdown.
Any suggestions or ideas would be great.
My plan is to do the in tank mod, remove the quick disconnects in the fuel line, and then setup the rest like the picture. I doubt I'll need the 30 micron filter after the pump, but both inline filters have washable stainless steel filters, so they'd help keep the stock filter cleaner for longer. The green line would have a small orifice and possibly a check valve to bleed off pressure when the truck is shutdown.
Any suggestions or ideas would be great.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,726
Likes: 5
From: Slatington, PA
I was just reading another post Kwikks fuel system and thought about putting a sight glass in the green and red return lines to see if theres any air in the system. Would that be worth it?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
The check valve will be valuable for diagnosis to see if you actually are removing any air, but once you get the system in place it's just one more thing to go wrong.
I'd remove it once you see it's passing air. It's not necessary for the system to work properly. KISS!
Pop
I'd remove it once you see it's passing air. It's not necessary for the system to work properly. KISS!
Pop
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Your system looks good. Pretty much just like I have mine setup. 
But, I would go with a finer filtering pre-pump filter. My Dahl 150 filters down to 2 microns, but can still flow 80 GPH of fuel. That would be 2 full tanks of fuel every hour!! The Dahl 100 also filters down to 2 microns and flows 40 GPH. I think Pop will vouch for the Dahl as a good one. 
Concerning the sight glass, I agree with Pop. No need for the sight glass. It's been proven that the air comes out of the system with the planned mods.
But, I would go with a finer filtering pre-pump filter. My Dahl 150 filters down to 2 microns, but can still flow 80 GPH of fuel. That would be 2 full tanks of fuel every hour!! The Dahl 100 also filters down to 2 microns and flows 40 GPH. I think Pop will vouch for the Dahl as a good one. Concerning the sight glass, I agree with Pop. No need for the sight glass. It's been proven that the air comes out of the system with the planned mods.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,726
Likes: 5
From: Slatington, PA
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
You're right you don't need a sight glass.
I needed to keep my sight glass for the pure satisfaction of watching the air bubbles dissapate whenever I changed the fuel filter.
I needed to keep my sight glass for the pure satisfaction of watching the air bubbles dissapate whenever I changed the fuel filter.
The prices on the Dahl filters are decent, $160, so I'll definately get one.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Looks good. Keep in mind that the only reason I went with a Dahl 150 instead of the 100 is I have plans to upgrade to a bigger fuel pump and injectors sometime in the future. If you plan on keeping the stock fuel pump and injectors, the Dahl 100 is plenty big enough. I'm not trying to discourage your use of the 150, but just trying to save you some money. 
Also, there's pictures of my 150 setup in my gallery & Pop's got some pics of his 100 setup in his gallery.
Also, there's pictures of my 150 setup in my gallery & Pop's got some pics of his 100 setup in his gallery.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,726
Likes: 5
From: Slatington, PA
Thanks. The Dahl 150 looks like it has a heavier mount on it. I'd be worried about the bracket on the 100 getting chewed up by all the salt and road chemicals around here. The $35 is worth it for the peace of mind.
What parts did you use to build the orifice? I see you used a -6an tee, coupler, and 1/8" npt reducer, but what did you use in between that and the FPR cover? Thats the only part that has me stumped yet. Also, did you tie the old return line into the tee, or run a new larger one?
What parts did you use to build the orifice? I see you used a -6an tee, coupler, and 1/8" npt reducer, but what did you use in between that and the FPR cover? Thats the only part that has me stumped yet. Also, did you tie the old return line into the tee, or run a new larger one?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by twags6
Thanks. The Dahl 150 looks like it has a heavier mount on it. I'd be worried about the bracket on the 100 getting chewed up by all the salt and road chemicals around here. The $35 is worth it for the peace of mind.
What parts did you use to build the orifice? I see you used a -6an tee, coupler, and 1/8" npt reducer, but what did you use in between that and the FPR cover? Thats the only part that has me stumped yet. Also, did you tie the old return line into the tee, or run a new larger one?
What parts did you use to build the orifice? I see you used a -6an tee, coupler, and 1/8" npt reducer, but what did you use in between that and the FPR cover? Thats the only part that has me stumped yet. Also, did you tie the old return line into the tee, or run a new larger one?
The parts for the orifice. Directly on the fuel bowl is a cap from Dieslel Innovations that has a 1/8" felmale NPT fitting in it. Next is a .008" stainles steel precision orifice, for the air/pressure bleed, that came from www.okcc.com. I just called them to order it, as I don't think you can order it on line. The part number is D-8-SS, It has a 1/8" male NPT to go into the DI cap and the other side is 1/8" female NPT. Then I have a 1/8" male NPT to 6AN male adapter. Following that is the straight 6AN to 6AN swivel coupler that connects everything to the 6AN Tee.
As of right now, I am using the stock return line. I cut the return line in front of the head and used some hose clamps to secure the hose coming off the tee to the factory return line. I'll upgrade both my supply and return lines when I do the pump and injectors. There's pictures of everything in this gallery. Here's a pic of how I tied to the return line. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Man I gotta say you guys have taken this to the next step.
BAM!
BAM!
Taking what we learn here and applying our own special blend to it. I gotta thank you though Kwik. Without your starting a air bleed, I don't know if I ever would have attempted to alter my fuel system. And a big thanks to Nut, for guiding me through doing it myself. I'm much more pleased with how my system turned out than if I had bought one. Plus, I have the satisfaction of doing it myself. And, I learned a whole lot along the way. 
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 0
I had one put on because I thought I had Fuel Crackle. It didn't change a thing and cost about $800.00. If I knew what was wrong with my truck at the time I would not have had it installed!! That being said I'm not going to pay to have it take off!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by MobeyDick
I had one put on because I thought I had Fuel Crackle. It didn't change a thing and cost about $800.00. If I knew what was wrong with my truck at the time I would not have had it installed!! That being said I'm not going to pay to have it take off!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 0
I didn't have fuel crackle! I had oil foaming. The ITP Reg. Fuel Returm and In Tank mod made no differance!! I had a local shop put it on thery have done it on several other trucks around here!! Truck runs fine now but the Kit didn't help at all!! The truck had about 200,000 miles on it at the time it now has 228,000!!