What would you suggest would be the best pyrometer reading after adjusting the fuel pump. On a 96 7.3 powerstroke with turbo.

 

Gas? Diesel? More info would be helpfull.

 

I'm a Dodge/Cummins guy, but a safe limit is probably about 1200 degrees. I have a "first gen" dodge, and 1250 degrees is supposedly the limit for a long duration, meaning that if I can keep it at that and no hotter running all day, it shouldn't cause any damage to the turbo or cause a meltdown. I do not think that I would even run it that hot for a long period. In short bursts, like 20 seconds or less when pullin a hill, 1400 degrees is probably OK. It is also a good idea to let it cool down slowly from a temp like this, by not letting off too quickly. I have heard that 600 degrees is optimal for efficiency when cruising, but most diesels in pickups will not run this low at highway speeds, and certainly not when towing. 750-900 is a good number for unloaded highway driving. Again, this is not a Powerstroke that I am talking about, so you might get some better info in the Powerstroke section here.

One other thing that makes a huge difference is the thermocouple location. My pickup has the probe mounded in the exhaust manifold, or "pre-turbo". However, many people mount it on the downpipe, or post turbo. This will give a reading that is maybe 300 degrees (give or take) less than the pre tubo location, and it is also slower to react to an increase or decrease in temp. If you haven't yet installed it, it would be a good idea to go pre turbo. When drilling and tapping, you must be careful to clean all shavings possible, but if the manifold is as cold as possible, the shavings will be very small and will not be a threat. With that being said, it would be a good idea to get info from a PSD owner who knows how to install a pyro, and do it the way that he advises.

Are you going to install a chip? From what I understand, the engine cannot be adjusted mechanically, since it is electronic and has no Injector pump, because it uses that HEUI injection system.

 

Hello- Welcome to FTE! I have moved your post to the specialized forum we have here for your question. Check out the list of tech forums we have on FTE. There is a wealth of information and expertise here to help you. There are a number of links in my sig below to help you also. Have fun!

 

I already have a superchips on it and a 4" downpipe with no cat or muffler. but everybody keeps asking me if i was going to turn up my fuel pump. i didn't think i could.

 

Humm, maybe you can turn up the fuel pressure or something. I thought that the Powerstroke pretty much used a basic lift pump. Now that the topic is moved, you will find out more. BTW, right on! with the 4" exhaust. It is probably the best mod that you can do, if you want lower EGTs. How much did that Superchip help?

 

Pip, Welcome to the forum. I'm gonna do my best to answer your questions. First, you can't turn up the fuel pumps on our trucks like a Dodge. Two very different animals. The only thing you can do is shim your fuel pressure regulator. But you won't see any performance gains out of it. It's just to optimize fuel delivery to the injectors. (someone will definatly correct me if I'm wrong.) Other than the 10K mod, the only way to turn up the fuel in our trucks is bigger injectors. (that is other than a programer which you already have.) As far as a safe egt. You don't want to pass 1250 pre turbo. And I don't mean to pry, but are you sure it's not a 3" downpipe that bells to 4" after the firewall? Anyway, you are on the right track to lower egt's. But you need a good intake. I suggest a Tymar. You can pick one up for about $125 and it will flow more air that you motor can use. And you can really hear the turbo scream. But you can also make your own, refered to on here as the "Kwik Filter" You can do a search on here and find lots of pictures of it. And if you haven't installed your pyro probe, I highly suggest putting it pre turbo on the drivers side manifold. Before I did mine, I was totally dreading it. I thought it would be a pain in the ***. But the metal drilled amazingly easy and tapping it was not hard at all. I put mine in the manifold right before it hooks to the up pipe. I just jacked up the truck and layed under it and was done in about 20 min. As far as shavings, I just kept the drill speed slow when I was about to break through and used an adapter on my shop vac that necked down to about the size of the drill bit and vaccumed out the shavings. Other people use bearing grease to hold the shavings. And when you tap it, take your time and don't cut too many threads at once. Cut a little, back out, cut a little, back out, etc. It was alot easier than I thought it was going to be. So if you have any mechanical knowledge, don't be scared of this it was a walk in the park. And last but not least, where are you here in TX. I'm in Spicewood.

For the other guys, Vancouver....Did you miss the last sentance in his post?? I couldn't resist just one little jab man. lmao

MJD, You would be suprised at the difference a programmer makes. Well worth the money. I started off with a superchip as well. Big difference. But I have since sold it and went with a 2 position chip from DP Tuner. It made an even bigger difference in power to have a custom chip. And my 2 pos. cost less than the superchip. And being able to switch from one program to the other without having to stop and wait to download it saves alot of headaches. Anyway, I hope all this helps and I'm certain there will be lots of other guys on here with some helping words. The guys on here are second to none when it comes to info on the powerstrokes. And one last think Pip, do a google search for Steve Baz, or Baz's Page. He's go tons of info on everything you want to know about our trucks and is a priceless reference for us. Later guys.

 

simply just sounds like someone who doesnt know strokes was asking you this....
you can shim the fpr though

 

RubberDuck i am in Miami Texas