I have been doing a lot of reading on installing a pyrometer for the same reason as most to turn up the IP, but at this point im not even sure if im going to do that after i replace the injectors and adjust the FIPL NEXT weekend (damn you 1-5 business day shipping ). Anyways, as i said, ill be installing one, and i feel iffy as far as confidence goes, so far I have learned you need to drill into the exhaust manifold seems like either side is fine, but my question is can any ol drill and bit get the job done? What are the chances of me cracking it? Should i drill straight down into the exhaust manifold? Or up through? or from the side?

Then, while i was reading about how to i came across this quote "just used a drill bit drilled a hole tapped it and hooked every thing up not to hard, i put mine in the third cylinder back on the driver side exaust manifold, thats as far as i could get back with my drill but its right on top of the cylinder"

My question with that is by him saying tapped it, does that mean he used a tool to create threads so im guessing the pyrometer can be screwed in there?
And by the way how does the pyrometer "fit" into the said drilled hole?

Also do i have to drill into cab to run the line back up to the gauge or are there pre-designed places i can come through? If i do have to drill through where would be the best place?

thanks guys i know this is probably a lot less complicated than i'm making it out to be but drilling into the exhaust manifold seems a little scary haha. Thank you for any and all help.

 

It is a piece of cake. I am not sure where guys usually put them on the IDI trucks but get a 1/8" NPT tap and a set of bits and go to town. Don't tap the threads too deep.

 

what he said^^^^.

just when you tap the drilled hole. don't go to far or the pyro probe will never tighten down. tap a few thread and test fit the probe. go slow like that and you will be good.

i have not drilled mine yet, but i have heard that the mani's are soft and drill easy. some like to use some grease on the drill bit, some don't. if you are turbo'ed then i would take the crossover pipe of and vacuum out the manifold after you get everything done. you don't want those chips going threw the turbo. if you are not turbo'ed then don't worry about that.

 

have a read here.... it explains drilling and tapping for the pyro and where to put it.
Auto Meter

some more info....
3-Gauge Install Pictures

 

I am actually the one he was talking about first time on here in months lol but after having my pyro in the place that it's at I'm not sure it's the best place I get a really fast acurate reading but I think it's actually in the flash area (think that's what the area is called where flames come out exhaust) anyway I without a turned up ip can easily hit 1400 and have 1 time only did it while not paying attention on my way to work (yesterday actually) accidentally pegged out the pyro and it reads up to 2000 I was fighting 45mph winds coming directly towards me and climbing up a slight grade and I wasn't even getting into it so I'm not sure it's the best location for it anyway I just bought a standard drill bit from my local tsc and it had to be the specific size for the thread tap and I didn't have any issues

 

Does the pyrometer need to be tied into any other wires for power? Or it just works like a thermometer and thats it?

 

The one I have is electrical and requires 2 power inputs but I am pretty sure the mechanical needs just a power source

 

And by a power source do you mean me tying into a hot wire? Obviously one that only cuts on when the ignition is on? Or do you mean when the probe heats up?

 

I cant find a pyrometer at a decent price anyone know any good links... Im really struggling with this.

 

Amazon.com: Sunpro CP7019 Sport ST 2" Electrical Exhaust Gas/Pyrometer Gauge Kit: Automotive


Bahhh I guess ill get what i paid for but i figured for $88.00 ill take a chance on this seems like if its all there and works that its a helluva good deal. Otherwise, ima be pissed .

 

And yes power wire for when ignition is on or like in my case it's on a switch

 

Yes, the manifold is pretty soft. Don't bother with grease or anything like that. I drilled mine from below and didn't have a problem.

 

The use of grease is so the chips stick to the drill bit (and tap). This is particularly important for people with turbos. Turbos don't like to ingest metal chips. For N/A trucks, the chips aren't an issue as they go right out the tailpipe. Due to the composition of cast iron, it doesn't require oil when drilling or tapping, the grease suggestion is just to trap the chips.

I did mine from below, right by the last bank on the drivers side. Easy to get at. Remember to wear safety glasses, metal chips (and rust flakes) in the eye are not fun.

I can't remember where I put the wires through. I want to say I was planning on drilling a hole, but either stuffed it through with the something else, or the spot where the speedo cable goes through was rusted out large enough.

Depending on the setup, you might need ignition power for the gauge itself, and separate wiring for the light. Pyro's aren't mechanical, they're all electrical. Basically there are two metals in the probe and as they are heated, they generate a small voltage differential. The gauge shows this minute change in voltage. Some brands incorporate a booster box that requires power to run, while others require no other input (like mechanical gauges.

Also, you can't just extend the probe wires. They need to be made of the same metal as the thermocouple inside the probe, otherwise it will screw up the reading. Extensions can be purchased if needed, but have to be matched to the type of probe (most likely Type K ).

 

DON"T cut the leads for the pyro either. it WILL screw up the readings.

 

I am well aware of that. I installed my pyrometer without the use of grease. All you are going to do with grease is make a mess. I didn't use any and my turbo is just fine. The flutes of a drill bit remove any chips from the hole. Vacuum it out when you are done and you will be fine.