Another autometer PYROMETER FLAKED OUT?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 342
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From: British Columbia
Another autometer PYROMETER FLAKED OUT?
Another pyrometer issue here. Since i've owned the truck (5 years) the Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Light Series Pyrometer has always been "flakey" I read alot posts about supposed issues with these. Anways mine is Stuck on 600 degrees. Even if I disconnect all the wires from the back it wont return to a Zero reading . Does this sound like the gauge itself is dicked up? Does anyone know if Autometer offers a lifetime warranty on these things, i've of some people mailing in the old one and getting a refurbished or new unit, is this correct?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 342
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From: British Columbia
thermocouple
Let me try this another way.
I'm reading at other places that the exhaust probe, AKA Thermocouple has a lifespan. Mine's about 6-7 years old. Has anyone replaced their thermocouple when their EGT gauge crapped out and did it fix it. I'm trying to figure out if its the thermocouple probe or the gauge itself they're both alot $ but the thermocouple is less scrilla.
I've gone through all the wiring, i pulled the probe out of the exhaust manifold both are good. And the Pyro is grounded staight to Neg batt terminal.
It's an Autometer Ultra Lite series pyrometer the boost and transmiision gauges are operating correctly.
I'm reading at other places that the exhaust probe, AKA Thermocouple has a lifespan. Mine's about 6-7 years old. Has anyone replaced their thermocouple when their EGT gauge crapped out and did it fix it. I'm trying to figure out if its the thermocouple probe or the gauge itself they're both alot $ but the thermocouple is less scrilla.
I've gone through all the wiring, i pulled the probe out of the exhaust manifold both are good. And the Pyro is grounded staight to Neg batt terminal.
It's an Autometer Ultra Lite series pyrometer the boost and transmiision gauges are operating correctly.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: British Columbia
i've read alot threads about Autometer Pyrometer problems on forums an all different sites. It seems to be a common problem. For some guys the gauge was at fault and for some its the Thermocouple. It always seems to be Autometer brand gauges that are problematic I wonder if its because Autometer doesn't use the amplifier box/module that some other gauges do.
I guess i'll throw a new thermocouple at it first
I guess i'll throw a new thermocouple at it first
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 672
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From: NJ
I have an Autometer 3 guage set. When I was installing my boost guage, I bench tested it (blew real hard into the tube) and the needle moved a bit so I figured it worked. however, for some reason, whe I installed it, it stopped working and failed bench tests after that. I called autometer, sent mygauge back and they sent me another new boost gauge that has been working great since. They may not be the nicest, but they're a little cheaper, and they didn't hesitate to send me a new one, so I'm satisfied. I had bought mine new off ebay.
I'd try to see if autometer will replace it if I was you.
I'd try to see if autometer will replace it if I was you.
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,453
Likes: 2,936
From: Reed Point, MT
I've never had trouble returning an Autometer pyrometer, but I know good and well that when I install gauges for a customer (they always want Autometer), I always buy TWO pyrometers and return the one that doesn't work. It's a 130 mile round trip for me, so I just buy two. If I luck out and the first one works (by some miracle), I simply return the other at a later date when I'm in town.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 320
Likes: 1
From: Vancouver Island, BC
old thread I know, but i wanted to let any future searchers see this. I had lots of trouble with intermittent flaky readings from mine too. the dial would sometimes stay at zero, and sometimes it would fly all over the place like crazy. I grounded the gauge directly to the battery and it helped for a while but problems came back.
I solved it after 2 years. it needs to be grounded directly to the engine block, not the battery. there can be a slight voltage difference between the block and battery and the thermocouple is on the engine so you need to ground it there (same voltage/potential)
I solved it after 2 years. it needs to be grounded directly to the engine block, not the battery. there can be a slight voltage difference between the block and battery and the thermocouple is on the engine so you need to ground it there (same voltage/potential)
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From: Carrollton, Ga
I solved it after 2 years. it needs to be grounded directly to the engine block, not the battery. there can be a slight voltage difference between the block and battery and the thermocouple is on the engine so you need to ground it there (same voltage/potential)
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