Lifting '00 Excursion
Lifting '00 Excursion
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Would a 8" lift require any mod to the rear drive shaft? Also, does anybody know about what the distance should/would be from center of wheel hubs to fender well on a 6" lift? Excuse my ignorance with this lifting thing, I'm brand new at it. Thanks for your info.
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I have 8" lift with 37" Goodyear mtr's. I also have a slite vibration between 58 and 70mph. I lowered the trans to take some angle out but it just shifted the speed range of the vibration. The fix is to convert the driveline to a Superduty style. You need to leave the flange's on the trans and rear end. Have the drive line cut to length with a CV joint and install it in the truck backwards so the slip yoke is at the rear. This is how a Superduty is set up. I also have a Superduty with 12' lift and the only vibration it has is due to the shaft length. It's about 2" short because of the lift.
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Ramsmoker:
With the shaft length @ 2" short on your Superduty, is there a chance the shaft could come out of the slip yoke in rough conditions (or any driving conditions)? With the 8" lift on your Excursion do you have a chance the driveshaft will come out of the slip yoke, providing that shaft is currently factory length? Thanks for the intel.
With the shaft length @ 2" short on your Superduty, is there a chance the shaft could come out of the slip yoke in rough conditions (or any driving conditions)? With the 8" lift on your Excursion do you have a chance the driveshaft will come out of the slip yoke, providing that shaft is currently factory length? Thanks for the intel.
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BIPIT,
OK, I measured the rear height. I have appx. 28.5" from center of hub to top of fenderwell. I have the stock excursion rear block 2" and another 4" on top. I think you may have a tad more than a 3" lift in the rear.
SW
OK, I measured the rear height. I have appx. 28.5" from center of hub to top of fenderwell. I have the stock excursion rear block 2" and another 4" on top. I think you may have a tad more than a 3" lift in the rear.
SW
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Smokewagon:
I measured the blocks on the rear of mine; the blocks themselves are 5.5" in length sitting on top of what appears to be the stock excursion 2" block. I found the paperwork for the so called 3" lift from Les Scwab. The measurements they made BEFORE the lift were 24.5 ". Measurements AFTER the 3" lift were 27.5" from center wheel hub to lip of fender. I went to that Les Schwab and asked some questions concerning having the correct drive shaft length for the amount of lift and IS MY RIDE A 3" LIFT OR 6" LIFT? The Schwab guy says it's a 3" lift and the shaft is plenty long enough and will not come away from slip yoke. Like previously stated, I'm new at this lift thing and don't even know the basics. One of the many things about lifts I don't know is how 5.5" blocks in the rear can translate in to a 3" lift.
I measured the blocks on the rear of mine; the blocks themselves are 5.5" in length sitting on top of what appears to be the stock excursion 2" block. I found the paperwork for the so called 3" lift from Les Scwab. The measurements they made BEFORE the lift were 24.5 ". Measurements AFTER the 3" lift were 27.5" from center wheel hub to lip of fender. I went to that Les Schwab and asked some questions concerning having the correct drive shaft length for the amount of lift and IS MY RIDE A 3" LIFT OR 6" LIFT? The Schwab guy says it's a 3" lift and the shaft is plenty long enough and will not come away from slip yoke. Like previously stated, I'm new at this lift thing and don't even know the basics. One of the many things about lifts I don't know is how 5.5" blocks in the rear can translate in to a 3" lift.
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Let me warn you about the big blocks. I had mine done at Les Schwaub and these are Tough country blocks. They don't mate real well with the axle perch's. With the axle wrap you get anyway the front edge of the block can crumble. Mine did!! They bought me a driveline and new running boards. Whe all was said and done mine was 1.5" low so I removed the bocks and welded plates on both sides so now there is mass suface contact of solid steel, not castings. I also made over the axle traction bar's. That really stablized the ride. The blocks are only a problem because of the soft spring pack. I liked the ride and I get comments all the time from people that say they have never been in a lifted truck that rode so nice.
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The plates were welded to the tough country blocks for two resons. 1 to level up the lift better and 2 the tough contry blocks don't mate well with the axle perch's. The plate steel will not crumble on the edges. Oh. I did make the plates longer to get more suface contact. You must preheat and postheat to bring the temp down slower to stablize the shrinkage. For a friend of my son's I welded a 4 and a 2.5 block set he got for free at the wrecking yard. We clamped them tite after grinding the edge and followed the same steps.
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