Shrinking in bed
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Brad, thanks for the links. I had seen the metalshaper's site stills before but the video is worth 1000 stills. The disk works very quickly. If you were so inclined you could actually reflatten that whole panel with the disk! In using one you need to be aware of where the final contour profile you are trying to achieve is and bump up the low spots as well during the process so as not to develop flat spots. I think I'll order one of the high crowned disks to go with my flat one.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Truthfully there really isn't much sound to it. I had to turn it up quite high to hear what little was said. Basically he says that you don't want to overdo it, it doesn't take much to heat the high spots. When the metal starts to blue on the high spots hit it with the water no need to get it red hot like with a torch. It doesn't remove metal like filing or sanding does, but actually thickens the metal so you don't have to worry about "sanding thru". As an experiment he kept working an area where there were several parallel ripples (from using a shrinker on the edges of the panel), and he was able to sucessfully remove them. He mentions that in working on a body panel he would likely use a bumping hammer or bullseye pick to bump out some of the low spots rather than just continually shrinking the high spots (see my note about maintaining the contour above). The main value of the video IMHO is seeing how short a time it takes to heat up the high spots enough to shrink them.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2005
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Thanks. I could see the ripples and sort of knew what he was doing. That makes it a lot clearer now. I wondered how he was getting it hot enough with the short period of time. I guess thats the way your supposed to do it. 
I don't have my truck apart, but I know a few places where there is filler. I want to remove all of it and get the steel as straight as possible. I have an assortment of hammers and dollies, so we shall see.
I don't have my truck apart, but I know a few places where there is filler. I want to remove all of it and get the steel as straight as possible. I have an assortment of hammers and dollies, so we shall see.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
When you get ready to start beating on your truck let me know, I can walk you thru a lot of it and give you tips, dos and don'ts that will make your life a lot easier. A couple non-typical body tools I'd recommend is a resilient dolly and hammer, and a bullseye pick. The resilient dolly can be a hard rubber toe dolly or even a hockey puck. The hammer can be a urathane or nylon mallet. The biggest problem most beginner bodymen run into is stretching the metal by hammering on dolly when off dolly is needed. By using a resilient dolly with a steel hammer or a resilient hammer with a steel dolly you can hammer on dolly without stretching the metal. The resilient hammer is also handy for bumping up low areas without leaving hammer impressions. I bought a new bullseye pick off ebay for ~ 40.00.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2005
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It will be a while before the serious body work begins. I hope to return home from this trip with some more parts. My health is starting to improve with this new medicine, so we shall see.
I really won't know how good or bad it is until I start stripping her. I have just started reading about the on dolly and off dolly (Online). I don't even know what tools I have in the shop anymore. I just remember an assortment of different ones.
I have done some body work and paint in the past (rebuilt totalled cars), but I will be a lot more careful with this. Believe me, I really didn't know what I was doing. I want it as close to straight as possible.
I don't think a torch, a huge hydraulic ram, and a 10# sledge hammer are the proper tools for sheet metal.
EDIT: I just went and looked. I have 4 different shaped dollies and 3 hammers. One is a pick. I have some odd shaped bars and pipes I used to use on cars as dollies to, but I guess thats not to professional.
I really won't know how good or bad it is until I start stripping her. I have just started reading about the on dolly and off dolly (Online). I don't even know what tools I have in the shop anymore. I just remember an assortment of different ones.
I have done some body work and paint in the past (rebuilt totalled cars), but I will be a lot more careful with this. Believe me, I really didn't know what I was doing. I want it as close to straight as possible.
I don't think a torch, a huge hydraulic ram, and a 10# sledge hammer are the proper tools for sheet metal.
EDIT: I just went and looked. I have 4 different shaped dollies and 3 hammers. One is a pick. I have some odd shaped bars and pipes I used to use on cars as dollies to, but I guess thats not to professional.
Last edited by Brian_B; May 16, 2006 at 02:05 PM.
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