Shrinking in bed
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,511
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From: peyton, colorado
Shrinking in bed
No, it's not what you think. My bed front has a fair amount of crown to it and I'm trying to flatten it. There aren't any dents, but the metal is stretched in the middle with a crown similar to a car hood, probably from a rough life. How do I shrink this? Do I run a line of dime sized shrinks across the middle of the panel, or do I concentrate on one area? I'm familiar with heat shrinking small spots, but I'm unsure how to proceed with such a broad area.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
I'll be interested to see the smarta$$ replies to this topic!
Seriously, in my experience this is a really tough type of damage to undo. The metal is really pretty thick to respond to the dime-sized treatment, but have a go at it. If you're going for a show look, buy a new front panel, they aren't that much.
Seriously, in my experience this is a really tough type of damage to undo. The metal is really pretty thick to respond to the dime-sized treatment, but have a go at it. If you're going for a show look, buy a new front panel, they aren't that much.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,244
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Need a smart-assed response? That's my job!
I'm getting real worried about the direction this forum is headed. In one day we've had someone ask if his rear was too high and another complain about shrinkage. What'da think this is Brokeback Mtn?
I'm getting real worried about the direction this forum is headed. In one day we've had someone ask if his rear was too high and another complain about shrinkage. What'da think this is Brokeback Mtn?
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,014
Likes: 9,967
From: Rio Rancho, NM
I hate to admit it with all the smart-alecs around by I need a fair amount of shrinkage also (maybe its ok to admit that...if you need shrinkage then you obviously have way too much)
The front of my bed is pretty well stretched. I am contemplating making my own front bed panel as it might be easier than messing with this one.
I know this will make the restoration guys cringe but I'm thinking about using the front panel and bed floor out of a 2005 GM truck. I think I scored (for free) a bed off of a new truck that had a trailer come off the 5th wheel hitch and destroy the bedsides. I'm going to look real hard at using the front panel and the bed floor in my 49.
Good luck with shrinking yours
Bobby
The front of my bed is pretty well stretched. I am contemplating making my own front bed panel as it might be easier than messing with this one.
I know this will make the restoration guys cringe but I'm thinking about using the front panel and bed floor out of a 2005 GM truck. I think I scored (for free) a bed off of a new truck that had a trailer come off the 5th wheel hitch and destroy the bedsides. I'm going to look real hard at using the front panel and the bed floor in my 49.
Good luck with shrinking yours
Bobby
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 111
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From: Klamath Falls
If I knew how to use the computer better I'd send you some links. Using YAHOO, enter MAGIC DISC METAL SHRINKING. I watched a guy work over a Model A roof that had a metal insert. It does work magically. If you explore the YAHOO page you will find several demos from users.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,497
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From: Tucson AZ
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
I'll be interested to see the smarta$$ replies to this topic!
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
Best to start by running a straight edge over the panel and see which direction it is (more) crowned. Run your line of shrinks perpendicular to the crown being sure to keep at least an inch of unheated metal between each one. Start at the highest point in the crown, do a shrink then check with the straight edge again. Keep your shrinking points at the highest point in the crown as it moves.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: peyton, colorado
Hey Ax, a local body guy had a similar answer, but with a twist. He called it "tuck shrinking". He suggested using a shrinking dolly, the type with the concave relief on one side, and a pick hammer. You hammer on dolly, using the pick point, into the relieved area of the dolly, creating a dent, or "tuck". You can then heat shrink the tuck. What do you think? BTW, great responses, guys.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 929
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From: S.C.
If I remember correctly, I saw a show where there was a fair amount of stretch or wave in a panel and the guys used a torch to heat up a general area and then quickly put cold iced rags on the metal for a quick cool down in order to draw the metal back in....
Somebody correct me if I'm mistaken on this...
Somebody correct me if I'm mistaken on this...
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Originally Posted by rhopper
Hey Ax, a local body guy had a similar answer, but with a twist. He called it "tuck shrinking". He suggested using a shrinking dolly, the type with the concave relief on one side, and a pick hammer. You hammer on dolly, using the pick point, into the relieved area of the dolly, creating a dent, or "tuck". You can then heat shrink the tuck. What do you think? BTW, great responses, guys.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Originally Posted by e william
If I remember correctly, I saw a show where there was a fair amount of stretch or wave in a panel and the guys used a torch to heat up a general area and then quickly put cold iced rags on the metal for a quick cool down in order to draw the metal back in....
Somebody correct me if I'm mistaken on this...
Somebody correct me if I'm mistaken on this...
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
I don't have it at hand, but I believe the title is "Basic Techniques for Working with Steel" you can find it on Ron's web site: www.covell.biz HIGHLY recommended!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
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From: NM
Originally Posted by AXracer
Some do use water airblast or ? to cool a torch shrink, but the latest technique is to let it air cool so as to avoid hardening the metal. With torch shrinking the smaller the area you heat the better it works. The physics behing torch shrinking is that by locally heating the metal red hot the metal wants to expand, but the cooler metal around the spot confines that expansion so the hot/"plastic state" metal thickens instead pullling in the surrounding metal. You can actually see the metal thicken into a "wart" that tells you it's done. Immediately tapping the "plastic state" metal on dolly flattens it like a rivet rather than stretching it back out again.