power windows quit working
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Mitchell, SD
Welcome! 
I take it that you checked to see if the drivers window still works (if not blown fuse.)
Did you try the passenger switch to raise the window?
If that does not work, you have to remove the door panel and manually raise the window. It has been forever, but I believe that you can do it with a long screw driver.
I take it that you checked to see if the drivers window still works (if not blown fuse.)
Did you try the passenger switch to raise the window?
If that does not work, you have to remove the door panel and manually raise the window. It has been forever, but I believe that you can do it with a long screw driver.
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New User
Joined: Feb 2006
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Thanks, do you know where to put the screwdriver? We tried that without luck. Drivers window works but both switchs for the passenger window don't. I know it's not the switches so I thinck it's the motor.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Mitchell, SD
I will go check my manual and see if I can get more descriptive on how too and post later. It has been forever sense I have had to manually roll up a window, normally there is a "bolt" that you screw to manually work the window.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 69
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From: florida
Passenger window
My passenger window was stuck up when I bought my van. I checked all switches and fuses and wiring, all OK. I have an R/C truck, and 3 9.6V batteries for it. I wired two batteries in series, that when charged put out about 20V. Briefly hit that to the motor, and it went down. Now, it works normally, except sometimes I have to bump the switch a few times once in a while to unstick it from the seal. It is a little slow too, but works. Anyway, try applying a higher voltage to just the motor.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 718
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From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Vwhed:
If your window is sticking or moving slowly up the track just spray some silicone lube in the track that should loosen it up. I had a window that would move at all without help sprayed some lube in there and its been like new ever since.
If your window is sticking or moving slowly up the track just spray some silicone lube in the track that should loosen it up
. I had a window that would move at all without help sprayed some lube in there and its been like new ever since.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
It's very strange, but I once probed the voltage applied to the motor on the passenger side. When you use the switch on the passenger's side, it applies a full 12.5V (battery voltage) to the motor. But if you use the master switch on the driver's side, you'll see only 11V (or thereabout) on the passenger side motor. That means the passenger window goes up faster if you use its own switch, but slower (and weaker) if you use the driver's switch.
I guess the guy who designs this system used to work for the IRS There must be a couple of diodes in the line acting the part of goverment waste.
I guess the guy who designs this system used to work for the IRS
There must be a couple of diodes in the line acting the part of goverment waste.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: florida
voltage drop
Thats interesting about the voltage from the driver switch, but my passenger switch is broken, so I cannot test it. I have to get some silicone spray. I need to do some suspension work, and get some of the squeaks out too.
New User
Joined: Dec 2005
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Hello. I just wanted to put this thread back at the top as I have this same exact problem... Passenger window won't work with either passenger or driver side switch, driver's side window does work. Prior to passenger window failure, the window was going up and down slowly. The window is now stuck down. Did Nighthawk look into where to stick the screwdriver to manually raise the window?
Thanks,
Giz
Thanks,
Giz
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Mitchell, SD
Sorry, I completely forgot about this thread. The next day I came down with the flu. I promise tomorrow I will take a look and post the results.
Giznawz, I would try lubing the guides with lithium spray, it is a common problem for those to dry out.
Giznawz, I would try lubing the guides with lithium spray, it is a common problem for those to dry out.
New User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I pulled the window motor and the window switch/door lock wire harness. I think that my problem is that the up position in the window switch is bad. With the switch in the down position, 12v is delivered to the motor and the motor runs. With the switch in the up position, my voltmeter changes from 0.00v to -0.00v, and of course the motor does not run. Is there anyplace online which would sell a replacement switch?
As a side note, the window freely moves up and down with the motor removed. I will reinstall the motor with the window in the up position and the switch disconnected until I can get the switch replaced.
Thanks,
Giz
As a side note, the window freely moves up and down with the motor removed. I will reinstall the motor with the window in the up position and the switch disconnected until I can get the switch replaced.
Thanks,
Giz
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 1
From: Mitchell, SD
Well I read through my chassis manual several times and they don't mention how to lower or raise a window. 
I would try removing the interior pannel and see if you see the screw on the motor, if not, try jumping 12v to the motor to see if it works (First lube the channels.) and get it up enough to replace.
I would try removing the interior pannel and see if you see the screw on the motor, if not, try jumping 12v to the motor to see if it works (First lube the channels.) and get it up enough to replace.
New User
Joined: Dec 2005
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I was able to remove the motor with the window down. I had to drill 2-1/2" diameter holes to expose 2 of the 3 bolts holding the motor to the door frame. The third is already exposed through a 1/2" diameter hole. There are 2 dimples in the door panel where you should drill. With the bolts out, I used a small screwdriver through the bolt holes to push the motor towards the outside of the door, disengaging the gears. It dropped to the bottom of the door cavity, but no harm was done. Once the motor was out, the window moved freely up and down. I propped the window up and reinstalled the motor.
Jumping 12v to the motor would have been easier, but I assumed my motor was bad to begin with.
Jumping 12v to the motor would have been easier, but I assumed my motor was bad to begin with.
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cheetoh
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
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May 26, 2005 07:09 AM