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I just bought a Powermasters 135 amp alternator from Summit Racing for my 2000 Ranger with the 3.0.
It has made all the difference in my system. I have a JL 10W7 on a JL 500/1 along with JL XR's on a JL 300/4 being pushed by an Eclipse 5 Volt head unit. I have pictures of it in my gallery under the new, new ranger. I'll add pictures of the alternator as soon as I can.
After a month of having the system, the stock battery died overnight, so when I upgraded to the Optima redtop, I went and ran 4 gauge from the alternator to the battery as well as 4 gauge grounds from the battery to the chasis, engine, and body. All of that made the truck start easier and run smoother in general.
The only issue I was having then was severly dimming lights and a voltage meter that danced to the music.
The stock alternator was a 90 amp max unit.
The new alternator came with a dyno certificate for its individual serial number that rated it at 113 amps at idle and 160 at highway cruising speed. I was happy since Summit advertised it as a 135 amp model.
Now the headlights still pulse a little, as is expected with only one battery and no cap on the system, but the voltage meter stays dead solid at 14.7 volts all the time now. My next and final upgrade is another Optima red top in place of the drivers side rear jump seat with the new Kicker 1 gauge connecting the batteries.
The alternator was 219.99 plus tax, which was very cheap for something of that amperage rating, but looking at the overall construction and size of the windings of it, I think it'll last a long time. It was about 1" larger in diameter than the stock unit and was still a direct bolt in.
I built the system for sound quality, which it has in excess, but a fun byproduct is having a Ranger with 1 10" sub that hits 150db's and stays crystal clear at any volume.
So, far the alternator has been perfect. I'll let you all know if it craps out and maybe I should have bought the more expensive brand, but I doubt it.
Yeah I don't think 14.7 is too good for a yellow-top. Though I dunno I have the stock alternator on mine. (Perhaps an excuse to upgrade?). How are you measuring that 14.7 volts? At the battery or alternator?
Rapid Recharge:
Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated).
Maximum current: No limit as long as temperature < 125°F (51.7°C).
Maximum recharge time: Charge until current drops below 1 amp.
Float charge:
13.2 to 13.8 volts, 1 amp maximum current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).
Like I said, if anything changes, I'll let it be known here so others can learn from my good fortune as well as mistakes.
Last edited by bigredtruck; Feb 12, 2006 at 01:22 PM.
Sounds like you got it setup nice now-- that voltage should be fine
was the Alt a blot in - or custom brackets?
instead of adding another battery--I would consider upgrading to a
Stinger battery or equivalt. I used to run alot of Optimas in different
applications- I had satisfactory performance and alot of warrentied batts.
g/l
It was a direct bolt it. Like I said, it looked to be about an inch larger in diameter, but the bolt holes lined right up. Also, the windings are massive in this thing. They look like they are 12 gauge wire or real close to it.
I'll try to find the score sheet from the crank it up I took it to before final tuning or any electrical mods were done. It was the same day the system was completed with the stock alternator, battery, charging and ground leads. It hit 147.6 that day.
If I can't find it, I'll have to get it metered again if I get time. Proving it is loud is low on my list of things to get done at the moment.
Last edited by bigredtruck; Feb 14, 2006 at 09:52 AM.
147.6 and 150 are two different animals. Once you reach the higher spl levels 3db is equivalent to the sound being twice as loud to your ears. And if this score was on the old mics I believe it. I have a single 10 in my truck and I have hit 149.2 on the old mics before, mecca rules.
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