Well currently I'm preparing to get a new alternator, since I feel my OEM 110 alternator is getting ready to kick the bucket. Currently at idle my voltage will be around 12.3 to 12.8 at idle with lights on, once I start moving I'll be seeing voltage around 13.2 to 13.5.

Well I am still planning on getting a heavy duty DC Alternator, once my budget let's me splurge on the good stuff for the truck. Currently looking at local stores I have seen one at Advance Auto Parts Buy Worldwide Alternator - 135 Amps P8556 at Advance Auto Parts which it's actually for a dual alternator setup, but it's rated for 135 amps which will be a massive upgrade from the 110 amps that Ford puts in from stock. Currently mine is a single system, which I've done some checking and the upper alternator can be used.

I know with the DC Alternator you need to upgrade the wire from the alternator to the battery to accommodate for the higher amps. If I use this upper alternator do I need to upgrade the cable or should the stock cable still work, and if I do need to upgrade what cable size is recommended?

Once I get the alternator upgraded I'll be able to see if my FICM is truly going bad or just due to the stock 110 amps the system couldn't handle the load.

 

How Low in the FICM Voltage Dipping at Idel????

A DC Power 185amp or 190amp would probably do you Good

 

FYI DC Power Does NOT Have any Core Charge and you keep your Current Alternator

So without paying the Core charge and putting the $$56.00 Towards the DC Power Puts you REALLY CLOSE the the Same Price range


Something to think about anyway I didnt know if you Knew about DC and No Core Charge to deal with

Best Part is you get 100% New Product with DC Power to

IMO the DC Power is worth the Money and the Wait if you can swing it

 

Lately I've seen my FICM get as low as 44.0 at one point I saw 43.5 while the glow plugs were on, once they were off the FICM slowly went back to 48 to 47.5.

Yes I knew about the DC Power no core charge, but right now, since even at night with headlights on and the dimmer switch all the way up without turning the interior lights on I'll see my voltage float around 13.5 for awhile, since the truck was sitting for 12 1/2 hours while I was at work, after everything warmed up and most times sitting at a light I'll see around 12.5 to 12.9, and the FICM would be floating at that point would sometimes drop to 44.5, but once I get the green light I'll see my battery voltage go up to around 13.5 slowly and the FICM will go back to 47.0 to 48.0 vlts.

Usually I don't mind waiting and all, but I've already changed the battery's and been planning on the alternator swap and if really need be FICM repair from Ed. Plus also since I'm in the military with Advance Auto I can also get the 10% discount, which even if you do the math with North Carolina tax and I would almost break even, and since I'll give them the old alternator which core is $56.00 that will be deposited back into the bank.

The only thing that I'll probably have to figure on buying extra would be a upgraded cable from the alternator to the battery since I've read that that cable is rated for the 110 amp OEM alternator.

 

Wonder if DC Would do a 10% Off for Military would be worth asking

My Dad gets that I always drag him into Home Depot when Im Buying Power Tools LOL

You can Make your own wire upgrade Click my Usser Name and Look in my Pics that was a DC Power upgrade the grey wire is the Fusable Link. All you need is a Wire and Fuse to go from Alternator to Passenger Battery Napa or a Car stereo place can hook you up.

You can do the Wire upgrade with the Advance auto Alternator too CANT Hurt anything Just better Flow

 

I know my situation is a bit different than most, but I bought 2 new, not reman, lifetime warranty alts from Oreillys. It takes about 8 mins to change n I never have to sleep in a cold truck AGAIN,, cause of the alt. I've been burning them up about every 175, to 200k. I do ask alot of the alt tho,,They're about $250 each.

 

1 month and 1 day still waiting on dc power...maybe i need to change my sig to coming later on that 190a alt

 

I bought a 270 amp DC Power alternator a couple of months ago. When I went to install with the spacers the bolts were too short. I contacted DC Power and they sent some longer bolts. It sat until the other day and I finally installed the alternator. What a difference! I was showing the same voltage you were with my stock alternator and the headlights dimmed at idle. Now within a few seconds I'm showing voltage of 14.2-14.5 with everything on at idle. I haven't checked the amps but I'm sure the DC Power 270 is putting out plenty. I think this should solve the dreaded battery/alternator failures every couple of years! I think the underpowered stock alternators don't charge fully causing premature battery failure and also taxing the alternator trying to keep up the charge causing it to fail. I think since I've been driving these, batteries have lasted 2 years, alternators about a year.

I made my own cables for the DC Power, I already had a lug crimper so bought the 1/0 cable (not cheap!) and lugs along with a 300 amp ANL fuse block. I just piggybacked the new cable. Positive routed back to firewall around to fuse the battery. I added a 1/0 ground from the alternator (at the mounting bolt) saddled onto the existing battery to block ground cable for a little better ground. There are a lot of ways to do it however. Sorry to ramble but I'm very pleased with the DC Power and well worth the money IMHO.

Regarding the FICM. I previously had 44-45 volts at the FICM at start and a few minutes after then stayed pretty good after that. I know the alt doesn't kick in right away but should still be at 48V and stay there. I bought a BPD 6 phase FICM power supply, installed and set to 48V. I have 48V from KO to start to driving. My FICM was most certainly going bad. Was having hard starts also. This was BEFORE I installed the new alt. If you aren't holding 48V I would say the FICM is starting to fail. I would send it to Ed or check out the BPD power supply. I tried to get the FICM out and the plugs are a pain. I got everything else quickly but the plugs were a no-go. I have a bad back and finally gave up. Had to pay the dealer a couple hundred bucks to remove and swap the power supply. The screwed me, it didn't take them too long but I had no choice. Anyway now I have the piece of mind of the redundant circuit in the 6 phase BPD FICM, big alt and new batteries. Now I don't sweat every time I start thinking it may not! Get a bigger alternator and get that FICM checked! Good luck!

Steve

 

I could probably go to NAPA or some where close and get something like that, what size fuse did you use, and what gauge wire did you use?

Looking at your pictures you still have the OEM wire from the alternator and that by what I can tell is still connected to the battery, then you have the second of course connected the battery.

 

Yes in the near future depending on my outcome right now, I'm really looking into the BPD power supply at stock 48v. Hopefully sometime next year once everything's good and all and doing some extra work on the truck, then I'll be defiantly getting a DC power alternator.

But of course right now everything is under extreme limit, so I really have to watch what I do until everything is good.

 

Yeah, I can understand that. I've put many thousands into my Excursion since I bought it a few months ago. Everything sure adds up quickly! Fortunately I planned for it so had a few extra bucks.

 

Well tomorrow is going to be a busy day (not work related), but looking at Best Buy for fuse related items, I'll probably get there Kicker AFSANL Fuse Holder 09FHA - Best Buy AFSANL Fuse holder, then get a ANL Fuse, the lowest I could find is 200 amp ANL fuse, then I get two sets of wire, even if they both have connectors on both ends, I'll cut one end off and strip the insulation off to put in the holder, then get the 135 alternator and run the cable.

Doing it this way when I get the DC power alternator I'll already have the extra cable hooked up, but I'll just have to get a new fuse then.

I'll try to post some pictures during the upgrade

 

If anyone needs a 300 amp ANL fuse, I have a few. Bought them in a 10 pack pretty cheap. BTW, this is the .
Steve

 

You are not alone. We have been waiting for a almost a month as well for a 190amp. Good thing the pos stock alternator is still working.

 

In my op. a piece of **** working alt. is way better than any super alt. that you don't have. LOL