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I have a 1984 Ford F250 with a 351 Windsor, 2bbl carburetor. My truck I have gotten running perfectly doesnt miss a beat, but until recently when it is cold out when I go to start it up It takes a good 30 seconds to get it started while pumping the gas. Any help appreciated!!! Could the starter need a rebuild? THANKS.
Check your battery voltage while cranking it cold. If the battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts, replace the battery. It is not uncommon, if the battery is marginal that it will operate the starter motor but the voltage drop deprives the ignition so that the spark is too weak to start a cold engine.
If the voltage looks good while doing the cold cranking test, and the engine is turning over too slowly then yes, test the starter draw. If the starter motor is failing it may be pulling too much amperage, undermining your ignitions ability to produce a hot enough spark. Check your manual for starter draw amps for your truck. If it tests high, rebuild or replace the starter.
Quick and simple test - hook a pair of jumper cables and try starting it. If it cranks the same, the starter is bad. If it starts properly, it's the battery.
Quick and simple test - hook a pair of jumper cables and try starting it. If it cranks the same, the starter is bad. If it starts properly, it's the battery.
If this test confirmed that the battery should be replaced, would a battery with boo-koo cold crank amps be worth the investment, or just buy a basic replacement battery (read cheapest.lol) I ask because I have a 1980 F-150 w/ a 302 that takes a while to get going on a cold morning.
If this test confirmed that the battery should be replaced, would a battery with boo-koo cold crank amps be worth the investment, or just buy a basic replacement battery (read cheapest.lol) I ask because I have a 1980 F-150 w/ a 302 that takes a while to get going on a cold morning.
Thanks,
DS
Your starter, in good working order will draw only a certain amount of amperage. Extra capacity is always good for those instances in which things are not entirely up to snuff. I have noticed that the 'premium' batteries with very high CCA ratings are the ones with the longest warranties.
So what am I saying? For longest warranty, yes the higher CCA battery is worth it, if you are confident that the company will honor the replacement and/or pro-rating in the event that the battery fails.
I bought a premium battery from Kragen while travelling. It failed less than a year later and it had a five year garantee. But the Kragen stores near me carry a different brand and would not honor the warranty. So my expensive battery cost me about ten bucks a month for the time that it lived. I suppose if my battery had failed next to a Sears store the outcome may have been different.
But, If a battery has an 850CCA capacity and your starter, under the worst conditions might have a maximum surge draw of 400amps, the extra CCA capacity is of little value unless you have a lot of other things drawing current from it as well.
while your doing all that testing you might as well do the following clean battery cable connections to battery, remove starter solinoid and clean connections and ground,remove ground cable and inspect it for cracks and corrosion, i ran a separate ground from the block to the frame for added grounding, also there is a wire comming off the positive battery connector check condition of this wire and replace or repair mine was corroded inside the wire insulation , I also replaced the starter and all battery cables and as of 26000 miles have not had a starting problem since hope this helps so much for the quick reply,,,, LMBO
if the engine is cranking over for 30 seconds. the starter is probably fine. it sounds to me like your choke is not proprly adjusted. that is why you have to pump the gas so much.
Piffery1 makes a good point, if the intake manifold is really hot, the heat could evaporate the gasoline from the carb. Same thing if the block is cooking the gas out of the filter on the fuel pump.
if the engine is cranking over for 30 seconds. the starter is probably fine. it sounds to me like your choke is not proprly adjusted. that is why you have to pump the gas so much.
This sound logical to me.
As to the heat from the engine boiling out the gasoline, that would suggest something else wrong to cause such a thing. Like the engine overheating, which he does not mention. Maybe not having an insulator block under the carb......... guessing here. Maybe a weak fuel pump, bad check valve or worn cam lobe, still guessing.
Need to check both fuel and spark. Look in the carb and see if the accelerator pump is working before starting. Check choke adjustment. If all ok check for weak spark while cranking.