2000 Expo spark plug change
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: The OC
2000 Expo spark plug change
Just bought a 2000 Expedition, 5.4L, 57,000 mi, and I want to change the plugs. Are the plugs under those black wired caps/connectors? I am buying a manual later this week, and I have read a couple threads on the subject. Looks like remove the 8mm? screws holding the caps down. Are the plugs as hard to get out as they say? I have all the extensions and elbows that I need. What is the best plug to put in as I do not want to dig into this very often.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,762
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
Complete plug change instructions are posted in the 97-03 F150 forum, stickied at the top of the page.
It is suggested to use the Motorcraft replacements. Look them up at www.motorcraft.com Autolite also has a very good replacement plug. Avoid ALL of the "gimmick" plugs.
Steve
It is suggested to use the Motorcraft replacements. Look them up at www.motorcraft.com Autolite also has a very good replacement plug. Avoid ALL of the "gimmick" plugs.
Steve
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 28
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From: Southeast Pennsylvania
I had a mechanic do my plugs on my 5.4 L Expy. Cost a small fortune, and he said he had to stand on his head and break an arm to get to the last plug, so yes, they are reportedly a nightmare to access.
As far as "gimmick" plugs go, I don't know if you consider Bosch Platinum +4 plugs in that category, but I didn't want to mess with them any more than necessary, and after 30+k miles since they went in, it's still running great.
As far as "gimmick" plugs go, I don't know if you consider Bosch Platinum +4 plugs in that category, but I didn't want to mess with them any more than necessary, and after 30+k miles since they went in, it's still running great.
New User
Joined: Jan 2006
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Yes the plugs are under the (c.o.p.) coil on plugs with the right tools it can be done # 3 and #4 are the toughest two to do.They are on the pass. side rear of engine. Go with motorcraft plugs. If you do it yourself I would also replace the seal on the c.o.p.s as they seem to dry rot from the engine heat they cost around 3 bucks a piece may may help from having to replace a coil down the road.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,332
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From: Baltimore
I don't have any personal experience, but I have heard Fords and Bosch spark plugs are not a good combination. I'm not saying Bosch makes a poor product, they just don't seem to work well in Fords. I try to stay with factory spark plugs as much as possible. You might want to consider replacing the coil boots while you have the coils out. They have been known to deterioate and cause misfiring.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,961
Likes: 594
From: Greater Austin, Texas
I used NGK Iridium plugs in my 2000 Expedition because I wanted a nickel-plated plug down in that hole. I think Motorcraft makes one now but they didn't then. The NGKs have 35K miles on them and the truck is running great.
I wouldn't put a Bosch plug in my lawnmower, but that's just me.
I wouldn't put a Bosch plug in my lawnmower, but that's just me.
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Laughing Gas
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From: The OC
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Tuned
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From: north carolina
Give yourself plenty of time if this is your first experience doing this job on the 5.4.
#4 and #8 are bears, especially #8. Very difficult to reach. You may want to put an old foam chair cushion over the radiator to pad your belly some, because you literally will have to get prone over the engine to reach #4 and #8.
I suggest starting with one up front to get the technique down. Lots of good advice on this forum. Read it---it will save you time.
I can positively state that the fuel rails DO NOT have to be removed to do this job. Patience and some twisting and turning of the COPS, once unbolted, will get them out.
Do one cylinder at a time. Dropping a socket down an exposed spark plug hole will ruin your whole day.
#4 and #8 are bears, especially #8. Very difficult to reach. You may want to put an old foam chair cushion over the radiator to pad your belly some, because you literally will have to get prone over the engine to reach #4 and #8.
I suggest starting with one up front to get the technique down. Lots of good advice on this forum. Read it---it will save you time.
I can positively state that the fuel rails DO NOT have to be removed to do this job. Patience and some twisting and turning of the COPS, once unbolted, will get them out.
Do one cylinder at a time. Dropping a socket down an exposed spark plug hole will ruin your whole day.
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