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Hello Folks:
This is a continuance from a previous topic "oil pressure gauge". Here is my problem. Under my van is a yellowish sludge which is thick and oily. I can tell you that I notice this 2 days ago. I check my rad and it was empty. Engine was not over heating. I also notice that my oil gauge is to the far left. I filled the rad with premix. My oil has been going low in last 2/3 weeks having to refill. I have checked my oil sensor from inside the van and it appears to be alright as far as I know. I went to Ford and explained. They want to do a test for leakage around rad, hoses etc. I can tell you I dont have alot of faith in dealerships since I know that they "upsell" on their parts but I dont have the expertise to try fixing (not to mechanically inclined). Can change fluids and brakes, about it. All I want is as much possible problem information before I go to the dealer. I must have a serious problem although the van starts, no problems. I just don't want to run it creating more problems.
Thanks for all your responses ref my "oil pressure guage" thread. Look forward to more responses on this matter.
flemm
Nova Scotia
first try to find were oil is coming from. See what side it is coming from check oil filter valve cover gaskets etc. The rad can shrink in the cold and seep down over time ,are you in a cold climate? Is there oil in the rad? Is there water in oil?
Thanks for replies so far.
B-Aerostar. If it is the headgasket or cracked head, which for some reason I believe it is, what would be an average cost to repair.
While it certainly could be a cracked block, it is more likely a headgasket or a cracked head.
Heads are about 100.00 salvage gasket about 50.00. lots of work about 500 in labor unless you do it yourself then it will be 1 pint blood (your type) and 1/4 pound of hand meat and 2 six packs aero beer.
what was is the color of the "stuff" in your crankcase on the dipstick?....should be dark brown/black and NO foaming...any sign of water or green/yellow antifreeze on dipstick above oil level =='s time for total engine rebuild
if there has been antifreeze in the crankcase and engine ran for past two + weeks, I would put in rebuilt engine long block...faster and more reliable than trying to rebuild an engine gutted by antifreeze...
Ford will be double the price to put in rebuilt long block...buy your own long block and negotiate will local auto engine shop to put in....get a made in Canada rebuild...some real garbage coming in non N American
Since you said it's a "Yellow Sludge" I think you should look at a few other things before blaming your engine.
1) On the side of the oil pan is a sensor that turns on the Low Oil Level warning. That has been known to be a fairly common leak.
2) Brake fluid. I don't know what the color would be mixed with snow, but it's worth a look.
3) A/C oil is yellowish in color after a while. Check the line with the insulation around it. The insulation tends to trap moisture and with salt on the road, it tends to rust out and seeps oil near the crimped connection. Even in Southern CA where there is no salt on the road, mine was rusted through not too long ago. Also check the A/C condenser for leaks, this is also a fairly common thing from what my local A/C shop says. If the color is really yellow, I'd suspect your A/C the most.
4) You said your radiator was empty, yet the van did not overheat. How could this be? How much coolant did you have to add? If I were you, I'd change the radiator cap right away. When the cap starts leaking, it allows coolant to go to the overflow tank, but it won't suck it back when the engine cools down. As a result, your coolant level would go lower and lower mysteriously.
5) It could also be the neighbor's cats/dogs relieving themselves under your van, even though I doubt it would be 'oily looking."
By the way a good way to test for a small amount of water in oil is to place a drop from the dipstick on a hot exhaust manifole. any sizzle indicates water present even in otherwise undetectable amounts. it really works.
Thanks for reply guys.
Ref some points. The oil has been low not empty. The oil on dipstick is normal, little brown, probably due for oil change but just did one about 4 months ago.
The rad must not have been fully empty because van did not over heat. Was getting heat through defrost. Seemed like the heat would stop when at idle (ex stops, lights etc...) Had to put about 2 - 2 1/2 litres of premix in rad.
For COPPER - to be very honest with you, the AIR CONDITIONER fluids have never been changed for about 6 years. Hardly use it here in chilly Nova Scotia. Only on extremely hot days in summer. I will have a check of that. Would this have anything to do with the oil pressure guage. Definitely not cat/dog's relieving themselves although we have them up here.
Questions - Would it be smart to run the van to check these leaks or does it have to be hooked up to some type of system to verify? Could I do more damage?
If the block is cracked or head gasket gone, shoud I see the crack or leakage?
Thanks again all
Sometimes it is difficult to understand what is goin on, till you take a motor apart. It is very difficult to remove a head if you have 3.0 and really impossible if you have 4.0. So be prepared to remove your engine. But try to understand what's going on before. What color is your oil? Ones I had a problem with radiator. ATF and water were mixed. Terrible effect! I could not find a problem for 2 weeks! Try to make snapshots and show it on the forum. Looking at them I can remember similar problem (it was my Job a year ago, now I work in Governor's office in department of Natural Gas and Electric energy...)
Aero's are VERY prone to having coolant leaks. And worse yet, they sprot up in a LOT of different places. Coolant is slimy to the touch, are you certain it is not coolant only that you are feeling as "oily"? I would go to any old repair shop and have them pressure test your cooling system first and foremost. That will determine the coolant loss. Whether it be the raidiator, head gasket, freeze plugs, hoses, overflow cannister, thermostat housing...and the list goes on. If it does not overheat, and the temp gauge is working, you likely won't do any more damage to the vehicle than has already been done. JUST DON"T LET IT OVERHEAT. Run to a shop and have them pressure test the cooling system first. Should only cost a few bucks to get done.
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