stroker kit
I was wondering if anyone makes a stroker kit for these motors, i'd love to make this big six into a stroker. what are the lenth of the stock rods? if they don't make a stroker kit for it has anyone used a set of longer rods to stroke it out? i would love to see some company make a stroker kit for these motors...i just don't know of any. i would also like to know the dimentions of this motor...i've heard they have one of the longest strokes, except for the new 5.4's
You'll have to get the crank offset ground by a machine shop. I don't know what the max offset is. The rods are 6.2097" CL-CL. Stroke is determined only by the diameter of the circle that the rod throw travels.
The 300 is 4.00" bore 3.98" stroke. Stroking the motor is not considered a good idea in many circles. The extra stroke length increases sideloading of the pistons, with a decrease in engine longevity being the probable result. The motor is probably close to its maximum practical stroke. The rod ratio is already a bit unfavorable; increasing the stroke makes it much worse.
Clifford makes, or made, a stroker kit, but for the money it cost you'd be better off spending the cash on other upgrades like a turbo if you had the ability to get one fabricated. They are flat out pricey.
Clifford makes, or made, a stroker kit, but for the money it cost you'd be better off spending the cash on other upgrades like a turbo if you had the ability to get one fabricated. They are flat out pricey.
the reason i was asking about a stroker kit for it is to where i could get more torque outta this motor, i am not worried about horsepower...i just want pulling power, and i thought that a stroker would be the best way to get the kind of torque i want. it is a great pulling motor right now...but it could still use a that little bit more
.
.
How much torque do you want?
With the right head work, 1.92/1.60 valves, 10.0:1 Cr, the right cam, carb and intake 300 ft/lbs is possible. Include full hot rod build-up, roller rockers, hyd roller lifters/cam, balance/ blue print, windage tray, bolted together with ARP------
With the right head work, 1.92/1.60 valves, 10.0:1 Cr, the right cam, carb and intake 300 ft/lbs is possible. Include full hot rod build-up, roller rockers, hyd roller lifters/cam, balance/ blue print, windage tray, bolted together with ARP------
Stroking the engine is a horribly inefficient way to increase output. You are better off spending the money on the top half of the engine. There are only two cases in which a stroker is a reasonable alternative, and they are related: 1. If you are building such a strong engine that you will need to buy aftermarket rotating/reciprocating components anyway. 2. If the power output desired cannot be achieved without moving the operating rpm out of the desired range.
The search button at the top right of the page can achieve awesome things when used. This topic has been discussed at length on more than one occassion.
The search button at the top right of the page can achieve awesome things when used. This topic has been discussed at length on more than one occassion.
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well...i did search for stroke...stroker...punch, and didn't get anyhing, so i thought i would ask. thanks for the information....so it would be best to build the top of the the instead of trying to stroke it? i don't really want to do any kind of porting, because i have heard that this will drop your low end torque...so i will probably get a set of higher c/r pistons...bigger injectors...and maybe get the intake ported.
thanks for all the advice,
matt
thanks for all the advice,
matt
Look here, the 300c.i.er is already a Stroked 240c.i.er.
If you desire more FPT, the Best way toi acheive it is to make the 300c.i.er BREATH.
Minimal P&P (otherwise you defeat the purpass by taking to much off), Oversized Valves, Offenhauser C Intake w/ a 390 to 600 CFM Holley Carb, a 2-into-2 Header, 3" Dia Exhauste Pipes into Magnaflow Mufflers.
If you desire more FPT, the Best way toi acheive it is to make the 300c.i.er BREATH.
Minimal P&P (otherwise you defeat the purpass by taking to much off), Oversized Valves, Offenhauser C Intake w/ a 390 to 600 CFM Holley Carb, a 2-into-2 Header, 3" Dia Exhauste Pipes into Magnaflow Mufflers.
what if you have EFI...what are some ways to make it breath better? i don't know of any companies that make an aftermarket intake manifold for the 300-6, if i could find one i'd definately buy it...and i know this is a stupid question but what does P&P mean?
Originally Posted by Mtthwvn73
what if you have EFI...what are some ways to make it breath better? i don't know of any companies that make an aftermarket intake manifold for the 300-6, if i could find one i'd definately buy it...and i know this is a stupid question but what does P&P mean?
I've already Listed in my Previous post to you how to make the 300c.i.er Breath better, but here it is again.
"Minimal P&P (otherwise you defeat the purpass by taking to much off), Oversized Valves, Offenhauser C Intake w/ a 390 to 600 CFM Holley Carb, a 2-into-2 Header, 3" Dia Exhauste Pipes into Magnaflow Mufflers."
I've Also listed for you in my Previous message to you that "The Offenhauser 'C' Intake" is what you'll need, see above, you'll find one on e-Bay.
Porting & Polishing.
Anthing else?!.
Last edited by Col Flashman; Feb 4, 2006 at 10:19 PM.
lol...sorry...nothing else, i started thinking about the P&P, and it clicked to me. i looked at your gallery...man you have done alot to that thing! I was thinking about getting another straight 6 instead of changing EFI to carbed (i was going to build up my 95). thanks alot for the information...twice lol
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