What would you do?
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Greenwich, NY
What would you do?
I have a 64 f100 and a 65 f100 that I'm building one truck out of. Just curious to see what you guys think of the frame option I have-twin I beam or staight axel? I'd like to lower it just a bit, and not much liking the options on the twin I beams. Is the ride noticably differant?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Bob, The cab and front clip mount points are much different on the 64 from the 65-79 series trucks. You didn't say which cab/clip that you plan to use. The bed could be made to work on either without a large amount of modifying.
Using the 65 would give you many more less expensive options. IMHO
I would suggest the 65 if it is usuable and mount it on a 73-79 chassis that already has the gas tank out of the cab, and has power steering and brakes.
John
Using the 65 would give you many more less expensive options. IMHO
I would suggest the 65 if it is usuable and mount it on a 73-79 chassis that already has the gas tank out of the cab, and has power steering and brakes.
John
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
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From: Coal country
I agree with the earlier posts. Be aware that the similarities between the 2 trucks are superficial. Very few parts interchange. There are major differences in steeering, suspension, motor mountings, frame shapes and the like.
With the '65, you can bolt on things like power steering and power disc brakes with cheap junkard parts from trucks made until '79. Doing these upgrades to a '64 requires significant investments in time and money, and the parts aren't just bolt-on.
Good luck however you go; don't hesitate to stop by and ask for help here.
With the '65, you can bolt on things like power steering and power disc brakes with cheap junkard parts from trucks made until '79. Doing these upgrades to a '64 requires significant investments in time and money, and the parts aren't just bolt-on.
Good luck however you go; don't hesitate to stop by and ask for help here.
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Freshman User
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From: Greenwich, NY
What I have is a nice original rust free 64, and a rusted out custom cab 65. I was thinking of using the 65's frame, but if the cabs don't bolt up that could be a problem. I like to hack and weld, maybe it is easier to play with the 64 frame. Anyone ever try the disc brakes on the staight axle?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
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From: Coal country
You'll need to really modify the cab mounts. Be sure to check the steering out as well. The '64 cab has the hole in the floor, and is shaped differently. The '65 steering goes through the firewall.
You can always cut and weld, I guess.
Good luck, you might be the one to write up a "how-to" on using a '64 cab on a '65 frame!
As a matter of fact, if you are going to do that, look for a '73 - '79 frame while you are at it. If you put the '64 cab on the later frame, you get disk brakes, rear in-frame gas tank, power steering etc. The '65 cab will bolt right up to the '79 and earlier frames, so putting a '64 on a '65 will be no different than trying to put it on a '79 or earlier.
As for straight axle disc brakes, there are kits out there. Otherwise, nothing bolt up, it all has to be fabricated.
You can always cut and weld, I guess.
Good luck, you might be the one to write up a "how-to" on using a '64 cab on a '65 frame!
As a matter of fact, if you are going to do that, look for a '73 - '79 frame while you are at it. If you put the '64 cab on the later frame, you get disk brakes, rear in-frame gas tank, power steering etc. The '65 cab will bolt right up to the '79 and earlier frames, so putting a '64 on a '65 will be no different than trying to put it on a '79 or earlier.
As for straight axle disc brakes, there are kits out there. Otherwise, nothing bolt up, it all has to be fabricated.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 556
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From: Ridgeway, Virginia
I think it would be a shame to destroy a "nice, original, rust free," 64. Sounds like a good canidate for a fresh paint job, maybe a set of wheels or whatnot. This is an easy ticket to owning a nice, unmolested, original ride. Nothing like it. Like others have said the later models are much easier to trick out. Save the vintage truck. Find a 65-66 in better condition and part out your rust bucket 65. JMO
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Freshman User
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From: Greenwich, NY
Rest assure nothing here being "destroyed"! Everything will be fine. I'm building a 60's style, salt flat, service/push truck. I'm fine with the staight axle(although it may end up with some holes in it:0) Just wanted to add power brakes and steering so the kids can drive it.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Bob, One big difference is the cost. I think I recently read that a power disc brake package for a pre 65 is around $1000.00 I bought a donor truck, sold parts that I didn't need, and my disk brake/power steering upgrade for my 66 became -0- in money cost. Everything there is boltup exchange.
John
John
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Ridgeway, Virginia
Another good point toward keeping the 64 ALL original. The cost factor is rediculous for the pre 65 upgrades. You are paying more $$ to make the truck worth less. When I say worth less that is only from the standpoint of the purist looking at antique/original or show value. The description of this 64 makes it sound like a very nice potential show truck. However its all about the individual and its not like we are talking about Duesenburgs, we are talking about old Ford pickups that darn sure arent going to make anyone rich anytime soon. They were built so well they are still seeing normal use and are fairly common. They are getting old enough where many have rust issues. So when someone posts about having a rust free, clean, original I think he is pretty darn lucky. You dont see many anymore. Just a paint job and some trim work and you have a cool, vintage, usefull, beauty the likes of which they will NEVER make again.
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