Hey all,

I have new plastic inserts for the twin I-beam fender emblems on my 65 f100. How the heck do you get the emblem off to replace the plastic?

Thanks.

 

Not the easiest job. The metal is 'pot' metal and the tabs that hold the plastic emblems in place can be bent only ONE time...in your case, that one time happened in 1965.

You need to carefully BREAK out the old plastic emblems if they are there, and you should be able to carefully bend the new plastic emblem, one side at a time (right side/left side), into the metal housing under the old tabs.

If the new emblems distort, they may need a little work to be 'fitted' into the old metal housing.

Good luck.

 

The 1965/66 Twin-I-Beam, Camper Special, Four Wheel Drive and Ranger plastic inserts used in the front fender emblems, and...

The F100/F250/F350 plastic inserts used in the hood side emblems (1963/64) were not available separately...as original.

All these inserts were only furnished with the emblems themselves.

All these replacement plastic inserts have been made up by the repro parts sellers, who have also made up fake Ford part numbers for them.

To install the inserts in the emblems, you have to bend the tabs outwards...CAREFULLY...that retain them in place.

 

Thanks for the info. I did assume that these plastic inserts were not factory. My question, before I can even insert the plastic, is HOW do I get the emblem off the fender in the first place???

I have a pair of stock emblems that my Dad bought a long time ago to replace the ones on his 1965 or 1966 f100 custom cab (don't remember the year). I have had them for years (Dad has moved on to Ford heaven) and I wanted to save them because I am looking for a truck like his to bring back to life - tan custom cab short box 2wd styleside with v8 and auto (anyone have one they want to sell???) - I only have the emblems - no box - and the mounts look like they must have some metal keeper ring or something that slips over them to hold them to the fender because they are smooth and tapered.

 

To remove the emblem, i use wonder bar. ( pry bar) with a sharp edge and work around it to get it out. they are just compression fitted into the holes. there is a liner that goes into the fender and the emblem slides into them. work your way around as you take it off. if you pull it off to much on one side it may break the emblem. to protect the paint i have used tape on the fender , a piece of thin card board, and when i'm just takeing them off to repaint i just work them out. but it will scratch the paint if you're not careful. Dutch

 

Bill,

I have to agree with your logic, but disagree with the results of your method.

The metal used is what was commonly referred to in the day as "pot metal". To carefully bend the tabs out and then carefully bend them in AGAIN is too much for the casting (it gets work hardened) and as a result, the tabs break off.

Alternate method: Use Bill's method , but start with ONLY the bottom two tabs. When they break off , THEN, go ahead and remove the old plastic emblem insert. FIT and replace with the new repro emblem insert and use a 1/4" push-on retainer washer on the BOTTOM metal retaining pin of the metal surround (the pin that goes into the fender). The push-on retainer will fit up into the metal surround and will hold the plastic insert but will not interfere with fit when replacing the assembly into the fender.

You could likely use this method on all three metal pins if all the tabs were broken, but since the plastic is held in 6 places by the tabs, it is best to keep as many as you can unbroken.

BTW, the reason you need to fit the new plastic insert is because if you do not, the foil backing will wrinkle and not look correct once installed.

Also, the 1965 and 1966 emblems are different, but the plastic inserts are the same.

 

The emblems have three pins on the back side of them.

354341S2 .. Spring Steel Barrel Clips = are placed into the fender holes first, then the emblem's pins are pushed into the barrel clips...which expand to hold them in.

Without these barrel clips, there is no way = none...that the emblem can be retained to the fender. These clips came with the emblem, or could be purchased separately.

btw: I use a plastic putty knife to remove emblems retained by barrel clips.

Since it's plastic, the putty knife will not scratch up the paint. This putty knife has a very thin edge, so it's EZ to work it in between the fender and the emblem to pry it off.

 

OK Bill,
Do your "magic", where can I get 6 barrel clips? I thought of using speed nuts but obviously no way to get behind the emblem area.

 

Since dealers usually do not inventory hardware aka standard parts, these type of clips can be daunting to find on the Ford parts locator system. In fact, no dealer lists any.

354341S2 .. Barrel Clip / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 14 = 800-543-4959 / No one else shows any.
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Call 800-242-7427 and order a free catalog from Dearborn Classics (dearbornclassics.com).

While Dearborn specializes in Passenger Car (Galaxie/Fairlane/Torino/Ranchero/Falcon) parts, they have all sorts of stuff that will fit the trucks, including barrel and moulding clips, engine and other decals, horn rings, wiring, all sorts of body hardware like fender bolts, blind nuts...and a ton of other stuff.

It's absolutly amazing what has been reproduced today for all these old rolling piles of misery. It's mind boggling!

Automotive Paint Supply stores, where body shops buy their material, also (used to, dunno if they still do) carry these clips.

AU-VE-CO, a large wholesale supplier of OEM hardware also has them. Their catalog has 674 PAGES of OEM hardware, which makes for an excellent "bathroom" reader.

 

Thanks NumberDummy! I assume removing the emblem will destroy the barrel clip? If not, I will need them for the new emblems I have on hand. What size should I order from Dearborn Classics (btw they are .95 ea for anyone who cares). They come in 1/16, 3/13, 1/8 sizes. Also, what is the difference between the fender emblems for the 1965 and 1966 f-100?

 

If you are careful when prying the emblem off, the barrel clips should be OK. Pry one side of the emblem, then the other...repeat...till it comes off.

These barrel clips are made from spring steel, so are hard to kill. The parts catalog doesn't list the size of this clip, but when you look at the large pins, whatever the largest size of the clip is...that's what you want.

1965/66 F100/250 Fender emblems:

1965: At the top of the emblem: FORD in block letters followed by either 100 or 250.

1966: FORD above, 100 or 250 encompassed within the emblem below.

 

removing and replacing the inserts...I would take your originals intact with original inserts in them as well as the new inserts to a plater...see how much to do them...plating them...doing this requires removing the inserts and reinstalling them...since the tabs break off more times then not I would let the plater do it. If a tab or two or all of them break off the plater should be able to rebuild them and put it together. If the tabs break when they have the job...its on the plater to repair at their cost...you gave it to them with tabs intact...you expect it to come back with tabs intact with inserts installed...


The bezels are potmetal...dont let them say they cant rebuild the tabs...thats a total line of crap pure and simple...

The barrel nuts sometimes stay in the fender too...and can be easily acquired as Bill stated above.



- cs65

 

Fat chance the plater will accept responsibility for breaking the tabs. They aren't stupid. They'll tell you up front they can't guarantee the tabs.

Guys, this isn't a big deal...remove the old ones retaining as many tabs as possible. I didn't spend a lot of time worrying about those tabs. Insert the new insert and simply use a good 2 part epoxy such as JB Weld SPARINGLY at a few choice spots around the perimeter to hold the insert. Don't use big globs as it can show through the insert as a 'shadow'. Allow to dry. Install on truck. Enjoy for years. It's worked just fine for me.

 

The fender emblems are held by plastic inserts, all you need to do is carefully pry it up (there are three points, two at top and one at bottom middle). The difficulty is getting a tool under it to pry it up as evenly as possible without scratching the paint under it).

Once off the old emblems popped out easily. To put in the new ones I only, very carefully, bent back two of the tabs, one on one end and one next to it (on the same corner). That way I was able to slide the new emblem under the remaining tabs without having to mess with them. Once in place I carefully recrimped the two tabs. This minimizes the risk of braking tabs.

I took the opportunity to restore the chrome as best I could (fity years of neglect is difficult to fully overcome )




Here's a before and after of my emblem restoration.

 

Very nice, But if he hasn't fixed it by now, there's no hope.
You see this thread is over 5 years old almost 6 years old.