I just purchased a 76 with a 360 the truck runs like top but I can't stand the ever present puddle under it. I am going to regasket the manifold and am just looking for some tip before I do the job. I want to do it right the first time. Thanks in advance.

 

What's the puddle? Oil? I wouldn't neccessarily suspect the intake.

 

Is it the manifold leaking or the valve covers? Removing the valve covers is fairly easy just a few bolts. The manifold on the other hand.......... is a mildly big job and the stock one weighs a ton

Sparky

 

Thanks for the reply. I have checked the valve covers they are good. the oil is running down the side of the transmission. I can run my hand across the back of the block and it comes up wet this is why I suspect the manifold.

 

This is a common problem for the small blocks. I've never done a 360, but on the 302/351W there are cork gaskets at the front and rear of the manifold that leak with the least amount of abuse during improper installation. I've devised an alternative installation technique that has a high rate of success. Instead of using the supplied cork gaskets at front and rear, use form-a gaskets red RTV. The bead will have to be at least 1/4" thick. Do not pick up the manifold after you've set it down the first time. Do not use sealant on the manifold intake gaskets. Use Fel-pro gaskets, they're easily the best. If you feel it's necessary to use sealant on the intake gaskets, only smear a thin sealant thinly over the gasket, that way it won't bead up in the intake port when it squishes out.
Good Luck, Have Fun
Kingfisher

 

Ask ten people how to do something like this and you can easily get ten different responses...here's what I've done to my FE's.

I use a little red RTV around the water ports then "set" the gaskets on the heads by attaching with weatherstrip adhesive (make sure all holes line up properly). Next put another bead of RTV on the gasket around the water ports. I then "set" the front and rear gaskets on the block with weatherstrip adhesive. Next I put four big beads of RTV at each of the corners. Finally drop the intake STRAIGHT down on the gaskets, install bolts and tighten/torque in proper sequence. The weatherstrip adhesive has such great bonding characteristics that the gaskets will not shift during the critical phases of installation.

Like the last poster mentioned, he doesn't use the front and rear gaskets. When I installed my new Edelbrock manifold, the instructions said not to use the gaskets, rather just use a large bead of silicon. This might be the best method for sealing these crazy things, but I have a real problem with using "tons" of silicon in such an application. This is because you are setting a very heavy rigid object on another rigid object and torquing bolts down. Where do you think all the excess silicon goes? You guessed it, some squirts outward and the rest squirts inward, i.e. into your engine...not worth the risk for me, especially after just spending $$$ on a serious rebuild.

As usual, just my 2¢.

 

Make sure to get a LARGE friend or an engine hoist to help you remove that FE intake!


-Sturzinator

http://www.geocities.com/sturzinator/1968F250.html

 

Fisher it is very common for the FEs as well.

John

jowilker
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In the cool still quiet of night you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

Got Kidney belt? I had an FE iron 4V holding my yard down for the longest time. I have aluminum Edelbrock now. When I have installed it I have used the "Great Wall of RTV" (gray) on the ends instead of end gasket. When I pulled the engine for its eventual rebuild, I found that I had no leak on the backside (I never could verify this when it was in the truck). Think about this: if you are leaking any oil anywhere, it's gonna get blown by the fan and air toward the tranny to accumolate. Do you have Blowby? is it coming from dipstick tube? How is the Pan gasket? I have a hard time imagining tenderly placeing the iron FE manifold back in place, I think an engine crane w/ a manifold lift plate might be a great idea.

BBT

 

I recently discover a great product. It's called the "Right stuff" at NAPA. I don't know whats in it but it is oil, gas and antifreeze resistant. Silicone generally isn't and will dissolve from either of those liquids, especially in the intake track if you get it flooded. It comes in a can like cream whip only smaller. Push on the nozzle and you get a 1/4" bead. It claims to be used in factory assembly in place of valve cover gaskets. I fixed an oil pan leak with it from the outside. It's what I'll use on my next manifold job for the ends. Oh yeah, they are proud of it.($$$)

1977 Ford F-100
400m/c6/4:11/Gear Vender O.D.
Crane hydralic roller, forged, ported polished,Deamon,Edlebrock, yada, yada, yada
280,000 miles
Stock on the outside
modified/rebuilt everything