I'm finally getting around to replacing the fuel selector valve in my dual tank carbureted 460 F250 (an '86 that was made in 9-86). The replacement valve is a Niehoff that has four connections upward and two downward. All that are listed for that application at Parts America are of that configuration. My original valve has two connections up, two down, and two straight back.

Those fuel lines are plastic and look flexible, but they are nearly 20 years old. Will the lines to/from the rear tank stand that 90 degree bend to hook up to the new valve?

The new valve has a "6-pin" connector that's different from the original. Like the original, it's a 6-pin design, but has 5 sires and a blank position on one end. But it's more a "GM style," with round pin connectors and a three rib green sythetic rubber "O-ring." The wires on the new connector all black. I'm hoping I can just splice in the new connector with the wires in the same positions. Is that right?

Can't believe it: a 20 year old American truck, and those D****d bolts holding the selector valve appear to have 10 mm heads!

Is this replacement going to work for me?

Should if have taken a bigger sock full of money with me, and asked the Ford dealership for an exactly correct tank selector valve?

 

Sounds like it is an aftermarket genaricfuel selector valve.
Parts store should have some plastic fuel line 90º elbows and get a foot of fuel line.
the left over wire I would put a wire nut on and either tape it on or shrink tube it. To prevent any chance of shorting at a later time.
My recomendation is.If your already there why not replace all the rubber and save a future problem from occurring.

 

Well, it is THE part listed when I look it up at Parts America. I see more than one listing, all of the valves listed have this same appearance, regardless of whther listed as an ACDelco valve or a Neihoff valve. They're very similar, but two of the connections have been altered by 90 degrees. I'm wondering of Ford and others used the same motorized valve in many applications, but changed alignment of two connections at some point in its evolution.

The connections look a lot like the "barbs" common for use with rubber hose and clamps. But the factory "hose" on my Ford is smooth plastic tubing. In fact, being used to old vehicles, I thought it was metal the first time I got under the truck -- until I touched it.

The tubes have connectors that look a bit like distributor wire boots, but with a cross sliding clip. I believe I pinch and pull the clip, but pull the tube off the nipple. Actually, I'm wondering how much of a gasoline shower I can expect when I dive into this little project.

I hate to say it, but my '96 Suburban had a better idea: One large (42 gallon) tank. Of course, its weak point is that the fuel pump inside the tank fails every so often. There's no access from above, so the Mechanic gets to remove the 42 gallon tank and skid plate, just to get to the pump. I'm temped to cut a small hatch in the rear floor.