The last few weeks the van was really hard to start. Starter would crank the motor, thge van would try to kick over but still wouldnt run. Would take 15 minutes or so to finally get it running. Finally after we had to make an emergency trip 150 miles away, van would run fine, once we stopped and shut it down it wouldnt restart. Finally got it started and it ran fine except for the long starting periods. Let it set for a few weeks at her dads house(150 miles away). Wife got it started then it dies at a stop sign 50 miles from home. Ran out there, another long period of starting, finally kicked over and we got it home. Wont start ever since. Heres what I have done so far:

Checked cap, rotor and coild. All needed replaced. Coil wire had a break in it. Replaced wires, plugs(no easy feat!)cap ,rotor and coil. Tried to start same thing, now had fuel odor.

Checked to see it I was getting spark. Checked coil resistance primary and secondary, all good. Checked ign module harness per manual, checked good. Took module down to get tested, checked good. No spark at wires. Pulled cap, rotor had broken, replaced rotor, wont start.

Pulled codes. got a 14 and a 63(14 is rpm circuit fault, 63 is TP sensing low voltage, battery was down) This was KOEO

Tried starter fluid, no dice. Cant check fuel pressure,but I can feel the lines being charged. (turn key on fuel pump runs for 2 secs)

Im wondering if its the fuel pressure regulator. Pulled the vac line from that and no fuel on it.

Any ideas? Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks
Allen

 

Welcome Allen,

90 3L? sounds like you are saying that you replaced old worn rotor, then after trying to start found that the new rotor was broken?
if so, pull distributor and test for worn wobbling shaft or damaged drive gears on end and on camshaft...
any damage to new cap?
do you have spark at plugs now and is it a strong blue snap that makes one cautious not to touch? safest way to test is use old plug as tester laying on block and watch gap...

does fuel squirt out of fuel pressure test point on fuel rail if you press release...careful doing this...can cause hair fires...best to borrow a fuel pressure gauge from auto parts store or rental shop

any chance you got a bad tank of gas?...there is some real garbage out there this winter after the hurricane refinery damage...low volitility...won't vaporize in cold weather well in cold start situations...lots of contamination with diesel and heating oil stocks in pipeline transfers....oil companies went cheap on refinery cracking after hurricane to increase production....

is there a noticeable smell of raw gas at tailpipe or at intake to throttle body after cranking?

careful with starter fluid, Ford V6's have thin wall heads...throttle body is like a cannon aimed at your chest

 

How about something easy....Did you check or change the Fuel Filter?

Jay

 

I know it's been covered but if the rotor clouted the cap or pushed the centre pin in it may not be getting spark due to either broken cap and /or failure for king lead to be in contact with the rotor, if you now have a soark you have to look at fuel, I'd go with the filter especially given your history, it's one thing to have pressure but without an accurate number you may not be geting near enough to support combustion, were the plugs wet?? you couls have flooded it tryimg to start it but that wouldn't account for the progressively worse starting so scratch that, I'd be looking at something simple, once fuel rulled out I hate to say it but do a compression test! you may find that is/was the hard starting condition. But rule out fuel first.

 

I havent checked the fuel filter yet. I tried to check pressure with a tire pressure gauge, no reading. I stuck a drill bit into the scrader valve to check depth etc, and pushed down on it. Some fuel came out but nothing like it should if it was at 30 psi. It more like flowed out under a lil pressure. Whats next? Thanks for all of the replies!

 

get fuel pressure tester on it...if gas filter old>replace....this garbage hurricane excuse fuel has ruined more good running cars this winter...tons of debris in fuel...too much 200 proof boozoenthanol picking up every spec of water in tankers....gas station tanks and vehicle tanks also with breaking loose rust and dirt...

neighbor has put 2 sets of fuel filters on his new turbo power stroke this winter, water in diesel at commercial truck stop! sets most of time....he has had lots of problems with his OTR big rig CAT engine and water/dirt in diesel.

 

Yeah,i know about the bad fuel thing,,check the fuel pressure,,you can get the tool you need at an auto parts store,,if still no spark or start check the gear at the bottom of the dist,It could have jumped time also,failing that check the ground wire on the ECM, that seems to be a FORD thing,,bad ground and no start,,if the TPS voltage is too low it needs to be replaced or the van wont run right,, if the RPM circut is faulty than i am mostly sure you may have a timing problem,,dist. or jumped timing
Good Luck,
KRIS

 

Also Leave the cap off and turn the engine over. Look to see if the rotor is turning.
If not that would be the reason your not getting spark. Also make sure that the Distributor is bolted down tight & not moving.

Jay

 

My grandfather told me: if you have more then 3 problemes in your, begin from the cheappest: fuel filter, fuel pump, clean fuel lines, check fuel pressure, chek a spark, spark plugs...
BTW! Look inside the tank!

P/S I made a hole in a floor to replace fuel pump, remooving seats and carpet only... It's really diffiult ro remoove the tank...

 

Welcome!


Just out of curiousity, how old is the battery?

I also agree with the others on the fuel filter.

 

Cool, Pablo

how did u cut the hole, acetelyene cutting torch?

 

Easily! Using an electric cutter! This hole is under the seat. I just remove a seat, carpet and I can see my tank and fuel sender. But I close this hole by rubber band and metal cover.

 

Allen:

Please verify once more for us. You do have spark, right? If you do, then the problem is with your fuel system, most likely your filter. Since you do hear the fuel pump run when you turn on the key, I'd rule out the fuel pump for the moment. Usually, the symptom of a bad fuel filter occurs pretty gradually. In the beginning the engine would cut out intermittently under load, e.g. when you are going uphill, and there would be a thunk as the engine dies intermittently. This behavior can last for months. Eventually, the engine would quit all together. At least, that's what happened to me with bad filters.

If you don't have spark, don't bother looking for a fuel problem yet. Look for a distributor problem first, then coil and ignition module.

Don't keep cranking the old beast, you'll burn up your starter.

Good luck and have fun

 

Ok I changed the fuel filter, old one was restricted. tried to start and same thing. Pulled the cap to observe the distributor as I crank it, rotor was broken again. Checked cap and there is a score mark from where it was hitting the cap. Checked for play in the distributor and it has none. Gonna go get another rotor and put the old cap on and see what that does.Sigh......lol

 

Allen:

After you get the new rotor and put it on, Don't put the cap back on. Crank the engine over and watch the rotor. See if it is turning straight or wobbling. I have heard of the Gear at the bottom of the Distributor going bad. Could be a problem when it's turning.

Jay