Captive Nut advice
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
People who have only done stick or torch welding are not aware that the nozzle end is not electrically conductive that only the wire is "hot" so that touching the tip to the metal is not a problem, and can be beneficial in holding a straight line and keeping the welding heat constant it also helps to keep the weld surrounded with shielding gas especially if there's a breeze blowing where you're welding. (Don't attempt to MIG outside when it's windy unless you can build a wind block around where you are working, the wind will blow the shielding gas away.)
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Back to Captive nuts...
I hate these things!! I have spent untold hours fiddling with them due to various problems. My advice:
1. On disassembly, bag and clearly label every one of them. Believe me you will need to know the thread count to chase the things with a tap before assembly. After sevral coats of primer, paint and clearcoat you will not even be able to get a bolt to thread and determine if it's correct unless you have the instructions (your bagged and labeled originals).
2. If you can eliminate the things, do it, and use a good ole fashioned nut and bolt. Also, if you don't have to use them they will rattle like crazy if you don't do something about them.
Now don't even get me started on Nyloc Nuts! STAY AWAY from any Nyloc nut that is not a milky clear plastic. My bolt kit was a cream color and I think they were made for the fricking space shuttle! I loosley assembled my bumpers with these things and they would NOT come off. Try as I might they wouldn't even budge. Even with a four foot cheater bar. Had to cut them off with a cutting wheel. Unbelievable! Talk about a waste of some perfectly good stainless hardware.
Tim
1. On disassembly, bag and clearly label every one of them. Believe me you will need to know the thread count to chase the things with a tap before assembly. After sevral coats of primer, paint and clearcoat you will not even be able to get a bolt to thread and determine if it's correct unless you have the instructions (your bagged and labeled originals).
2. If you can eliminate the things, do it, and use a good ole fashioned nut and bolt. Also, if you don't have to use them they will rattle like crazy if you don't do something about them.
Now don't even get me started on Nyloc Nuts! STAY AWAY from any Nyloc nut that is not a milky clear plastic. My bolt kit was a cream color and I think they were made for the fricking space shuttle! I loosley assembled my bumpers with these things and they would NOT come off. Try as I might they wouldn't even budge. Even with a four foot cheater bar. Had to cut them off with a cutting wheel. Unbelievable! Talk about a waste of some perfectly good stainless hardware.
Tim
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