I have finally managed to get my boxing plates cut and I took the plunge and bought myself a nice new 180amp Mig set at the weekend.

So before I get to boxing the entire chassis, I was just wondering what Nuts or holes (for access) I need to have in place. I am just thinking that many of you guys have already gone down this route and you might be able to save me some cursing later on when I find I missed something.

So if you have any advice, it would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Lee

 

Lee -

As for critical locations to plan, I have no input, as I haven't boxed my frame.

However, I have developed a preferred techinque for threaded hard points behind plates. If the attachment needs to be very structural, I like to use flange nuts. The flange is easy to weld to the plate. For less structural areas, like wire tie-downs or brake/fuel line attach points, I like to use rivet nuts. Rivet nuts can be installed after the boxing wherever needed. They come in either plated steel or aluminum and can be set with a hand (squeeze) tool.

 

Lee,

I studied my frame carefully and did like Randy suggested and welded flange style nuts in the areas where I need to bolt stuff to. If you have any bolts that need to go completely through the frame you should consider welding in a piece of tubing so that you don't crush the boxing plates.

I spent alot of time looking and figuring, looking and figuring, looking and figuring, etc, etc, etc and still missed a few things.....agh (they were all minor and easily dealt with though so it wasn't to bad...just frustrating)

Good luck with it
Bobby

 

Thanks Randy/Bobby,

I will have a good look over everything twice before I start.

Cheers
Lee

 

I prefer to cut access/lightening holes in boxing plates both to be able to reach inside to run wires, hoses, reach the inevitable forgotten bolt or nut, and to be able to paint/rust proof the inside.

 

I used 3/8-16s for everything but the suspension mounts. I drilled out all the holes, mounted all the components to the frame and then welded the nuts inside. It's pretty hard to miss a hole that way and if you miss welding one you will find it when you disassemble the frame. Using the same size bolt makes it easy when you need to replace one. Don't try to box it on a rotisserie, mount it solid, weight it down and work small areas at a time. Good luck

 

Lee,

I don't know what year your truck is but some inner fenders bolt to the frame at the bottom. I forgot those and had to drill holes in the boxing plate to put nuts on the bolts. Also,you may want to leave openings to allow brake lines to pass from outside the frame to inside unless you run them over or under. I ran rear brake lines, gas line to the fuel pump, and transmission cooler lines inside my frame rails too to protect them from the exhaust pipes....

Vern

 

This is what I intend to do. Very litlte if any strength will be lost. If you are concerned about doing it this way, use 7GA steel sheet to box the frame with. I believe the frame was originally 10GA.

 

Thanks Guys,

All good advice. I like the idea of lightening holes.. Just not sure how to easily cut them now.

Greatnorthwoods,
Its a 56 F100, unfortunately when I got it, it did not have the inner fenders attached. So I am not actually sure how they mount.
I did some practice welding on some scrap plate last night and was quite impressed with the results. I am just itching to get the work underway now. But dont want to mess up.

Fatfenders56,
I had thought about tacking the plates in place and turning the chassis over to weld the underside edges but it sounds like that is not the best idea. I have just not tried welding overhead so was not sure how easy/dificult it would be.

Thanks
Lee

 

Glad to see I'm not the only one to do this!!

Tim

 

Lee,
Welding overhead isn't too bad on ther boxing plates since you are only welding small areas at a time. Basically a series of large tacks all strung together.

If you had access to a plasma cutter the lightening holes would be easy to cut in. You could also use a torch, metal blade in a jig-saw, etc, even a large diameter hole saw.

Don't worry too much, the job is pretty easy.
Bobby

 

Tim, I forgot one of these also on my passenger side. I think Ford quit using them after 1950ish.
From looking at it they don't make much sense. The cab is mounted on rubber and can "float", the radiator support is rubber and spring mounted and can "float" The front clip attaches to teh radiator support and the cab and therefore can "float" except for the two tabs at the lower rear part of the inner fenders that bolt hard to the frame on studs.
These mounting tabs are often torn off or surrounded by stress cracks. Basically it seems like they are being torn apart since ther entire body can "float" but they lower part of the inner fenders are mounted hard. I'm eliminating them on my truck and securing the rear of the inner fenders to the front cab mount strut instead.
Again, this is only on the 48-50ish trucks

Bobby

 

Lee -

The 56 inner fenders attach to the air dams, the outer fenders and to the cab. The cab attachment is via two angles on the firewall. The entire front clip hangs on the radiator support.

 

3" hole saw would make quick work of lightening holes. I'd put two next to each other then cut across the top and bottom with a cutoff wheel or metal cutting blade on a saber saw to make 3x6" oval holes. Plenty big enough to get a hand or wrench into.
Put the frame on jackstands under frame at crossmembers, shim level F-R and L-R and check diagonals for square. put ~ 100# of weight on the cross members over each jackstand. You'll be unpleasantly surprised just how bady the rails can heat warp otherwise. Weld no more than an inch at a time and skip around side to side, front to back so the area can cool to cold before doing another weld nearby. Take you time, it may require a couple days to finish it, don't rush!

The "overhead" weld is quite easy with a mig if you inset your boxing plate 1/8-1/4". Lay the torch tip right into the corner against the metal so the wire is touching right into the corner, tip the handle ~ 20* away from you so the tip is pointing towards you. Weld towards yourself while dragging the tip along the metal. Welding towards yourself will allow you to see the bead forming in front of the tip instead of welding blind by blocking the weld point from sight with the torch. Dragging the tip will help keep the heat consistant and reduce the beginner's tendency to keep moving the tip further away from the metal as they weld.

 

Thanks Bobby/Randy/AX,

I am sure I will be ok. I am just a little nervous about it as I have not done anything like this before. With all of the good tips and advice from all of you guys I am feeling a lot more confident than I would have without it.

cheers
Lee