Hi guys I'm here because basically I'm hoping I can avoid a huge bill from Ford. The problem is that the 30amp fuse under the hood that controls my windows keeps blowing. At first it was a very random thing. I rolled them down to back out of the driveway then when I went to roll them up they didn't work. After running around with a tester light I found the fuse. So I replaced the fuse and then it worked just fine for about 3 days then it blew again. So I replaced it and it lasted for a couple more days. Then about 2 days ago it blew again and now it blows the fuses instantly. I was able to only get my passenger window up half way. Anytime I turn the key it blows that fuse. At $2 a pop it's getting annoying spending $10 on fuses to get the window half up.

Now I'm not a big vehicle person so I'm sorry if I'm stepping any toes. HOwever I was wondering if you guys have seen this happening a lot. Any idea what it could be? I had to just drop $1200 into it to fix a solenoid on the transmission and I don't want to pay them another cent. I feel automatically charging me for 5hrs work when it only takes 30min is robery. Can anyone help? Thanks for any advice!
Duck

 

Check the GEM module on the rear of the fuse box. It controls the window functions. You may have an unknown windshield leak that has corrded the inside of the module causing a short.

 

if it blows when running the window motor, you are pulling too many amps. mine worked very hard. took off the door panel and sprayed oil in the sissor mechanism and it owrks much smoother now. that has to be less amps.--- now if it blows when not running the window motor, then you need to look for a short in the wire like LxM said.

 

Take off the drivers door panel and follow the harness...Right behind the speaker is a spot where the wiring rubs against part of the door cross bar, gets chaffed and shorts out. Check this link.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=20682

 

I had the exact same problem. What I found was that with the door open, the fuse would not blow, but with the door closed it would blow every time. I pulled the door panel and checked the wiring bundle where it goes from the door to the chassis. One of the wires was rubbing, and the insulation had worn off, allowing the exposed wire to make contact with the door frame causing a direct short blowing the fuse. I heavily covered the exposed area with electrical tape, and bought some spiral cable wrap from Radio Shack ( about $3.50 for 10 ft). Problem solved. Hope this helps.

 

how old is your truck? If the motor itself is worn out and its drawing too much power that could blow the fuse too.

 

It's a 2000 XLT extended cab. That is true, however as I stated in my original post, my fuse was only blowing when the door was closed. When the door was open, the wiring bundle was pulled away from the frame eliminating the short.

 

Welcome to the forum jwmet and thanks for the tip