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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Battery Drain

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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 08:13 AM
  #16  
jd_sylvia's Avatar
jd_sylvia
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From: Turlock CA
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I try to steer clear of Autozone but it is a personal thing.
My local Autozone you have to speak a language from south of the border to get any help and they don't want to work with you if you don't speak it.
So I will continue using Napa, Kragen, and the local guy Who speak English only.

jd
 
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 06:02 PM
  #17  
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From: Napa
Originally Posted by jd_sylvia
I try to steer clear of Autozone but it is a personal thing.
My local Autozone you have to speak a language from south of the border to get any help and they don't want to work with you if you don't speak it.
So I will continue using Napa, Kragen, and the local guy Who speak English only.

jd
I almost thought that you lived in Napa JD. I go through the same crap
 
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 08:54 PM
  #18  
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I am having the battery charged and buying the 16.95 Voltage Regulator at Autozone. I know just enough Spanish to get what I need. Thanks again for all of your help. Hopefully this will solve the problems.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 02:20 PM
  #19  
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so far so good...

I replaced the voltage regulator and had the battery charged and tested on Sunday. All is still working great!! I have been starting the beast every day and the surges are gone and instruments are all working fine. So, just wanted to thank you all for your insight. I love these trucks!!!
 
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 03:14 PM
  #20  
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From: "Islander"
I had a regulator that clicked when the ignition was turned on, went to Napa and they had a "electronic" for $26 but it had points inside. Paid $47 for a "electronic" regulator at a small auto parts store it has solid state switching instead of points. Be careful on what you buy as the advertising seems almost illegal.
Follow up with a battery voltage reading before starting on a cold morning, start up and check the upper voltage limit to see if it's within spec, the alternators putting out and regulators controling voltage.
.....=o&o>.....
 

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jan 18, 2006 at 03:24 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 11:46 AM
  #21  
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Flyn66dtmn
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From: Montana
another way to check for leaks. disconnect the negative post on the battery and hook a cheep voltmeter between the ground cable and battey post. this will tell you how much it is losing, then start removing fuses until the voltmeter goes to zero. mine ended up being the brake sending unit being shorted out just enough to cause a small drain. just a suggestion. maybe an eay fix.
 
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