Battery Drain
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Battery Drain
My 65 F100 has a continuing problem with the battery draining. I am tired of disconnecting the battery between trips. Exactly what steps should be taken to find the problem? I had to replace numerous wires thru the firewall due to a fire before I got it. I do have a wiring diagram and a shop manual. I am a bit of a novice in case you didn't notice. Thanks for the help.
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Turlock CA
First I would have the battery fully chared and checked at your local auto supply store. I had a battery that as long as I drove it once a week it was fine if it sat for two weeks it would be dead. I replaced it and haven't had a problem yet.
Second how long are we talking between trips?
I would start with disconnecting one item at a time until your battery doesn't loose its charge. Like start with the radio than heater motor. If you have one of the wires shorting from the fire it would have fried by now.
other than that good luck.
Second how long are we talking between trips?
I would start with disconnecting one item at a time until your battery doesn't loose its charge. Like start with the radio than heater motor. If you have one of the wires shorting from the fire it would have fried by now.
other than that good luck.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Princeton WV
bwatkins
I have a similar problem, have a one and half amp draw with everything off, if I disconnect the regulator it goes away. I keep the battery disconnected and battery is five years old and still good, would sure like to know the problem, owned truck for over thirty years.
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Great responses so far. Thanks a ton. I had read a similar sounding post which said the voltage regulator might be an area to focus on. Those are at Napa stores if I need to replace right??
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Mddl A MexCans
My 74 Chevelle had this issue. Replaced the Regulator $16.00 all was good after that. The mechanic (old fella, neighbor that sipped whiskey all day) told me that if the regulator is staying closed enough to have a continuity it wil drain the battery.?? worked for me...easy enough to see if it's the issue.. pull the cover and stick something (cardboard) in between tounge and keep the faces separate for a night. If the battery is ok in the morning ...walla. Might even be able to adjust the thing can't recall..
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Dumb question spoiler alert!!!
I am trying to open the lid of the voltage regulator. It is riveted shut. The replacement parts from MACS seem to have two screws. There is also confusion on my end as to the actual name/number of the part. I am assuming this is the Alternator Voltage Regulator located next to the radiator. There is also a CONSTANT Voltage regulator which is behind the dash. Question 1. Can I open the riveted regulator lid without destroying it?
2. Is the constant regulator a factor in this problem?
I am grateful for the help, and the fact that all parts are easy to get to...Thanks
I am trying to open the lid of the voltage regulator. It is riveted shut. The replacement parts from MACS seem to have two screws. There is also confusion on my end as to the actual name/number of the part. I am assuming this is the Alternator Voltage Regulator located next to the radiator. There is also a CONSTANT Voltage regulator which is behind the dash. Question 1. Can I open the riveted regulator lid without destroying it?
2. Is the constant regulator a factor in this problem?
I am grateful for the help, and the fact that all parts are easy to get to...Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Texas
its the one by the radiator thats the problem. the one under the dash should have Zero power with the key off.
I replaced my regulator when I put in a 100 amp altinator from a 1979. the part number was diffrent, but the part is backwards compatable. The advantage were all electronic, no moving parts. Higher current rating, less prone to be overloaded. and it looks like the original.
I replaced my regulator when I put in a 100 amp altinator from a 1979. the part number was diffrent, but the part is backwards compatable. The advantage were all electronic, no moving parts. Higher current rating, less prone to be overloaded. and it looks like the original.
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I drilled out the rivets to check it out. After popping open the lid, I am staring at a aging circuit board.If my history is correct this was not introduced until mid 70's at the earliest. This has to be a replacement. There are no part numbers but there is a break in one of the circuits. I am going to try to solder it to fix. NAPA has the electronic one for $41. The other is about $30.
