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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Speedometer Problem (cleaning?)

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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 01:19 PM
  #16  
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subford
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From: Easton,Ks
Red face

Originally Posted by John7894
FWIW, I have installed a 93 cluster in my 94.........

i think if they are different the battery will not charge or the voltmeter will not work....
OK, I think you may be right. I was looking at the book and saw two Plugs, one black and one gray with differnt pinouts. I did not know that there were three sockets in the cluster and it takes both the black and gray plugs.
Sorry
 
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 01:25 PM
  #17  
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KW160
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Originally Posted by subford
NOT TRUE, at least the 1995 FORD Wiring Diagrams, 1995 FORD Electrical and Troubleshooing Manual and the 1995 Ford Shop Manual all say they are not the same.
I and many people on this forum have swapped tach for non-tach clusters with no wiring change...................
 
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 07:00 PM
  #18  
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From: Michigan
I had(have) same problem. PSOM is good but the speedo still wavers. I have the Ford TSB article no. 96-21-11. "Any slight dents, chips, etc., in either the exciter ring or VSS will create needle waver. Measure air gap between the VSS and exciter ring. It should be 0.38-0.51mm (0.015-0.020")."
I regapped the VSS and exciter ring and all but eliminated the problem. I still have a bad exciter ring, but that won't be replaced until I need to tear the rear end apart.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 11:05 PM
  #19  
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John7894
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Originally Posted by alz
I had(have) same problem. PSOM is good but the speedo still wavers. I have the Ford TSB article no. 96-21-11. "Any slight dents, chips, etc., in either the exciter ring or VSS will create needle waver. Measure air gap between the VSS and exciter ring. It should be 0.38-0.51mm (0.015-0.020")."
I regapped the VSS and exciter ring and all but eliminated the problem. I still have a bad exciter ring, but that won't be replaced until I need to tear the rear end apart.
How did you regap it? I plan to drain the rear soon before I sell the truck and look at it. I want to fix all of the little things before I sell it.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 07:03 AM
  #20  
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From: Michigan
I just used a file on the sensor so it would sit lower in to the diff. You could also grind(file) the diff where the sensor seats. But plastic is softer than steel.
 
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