yes im building a 72 and found motor u think this is a good motor/ combo for #3300?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...QQcmdZViewItem

 

If they bothered to set the piston to cylinder head quench correctly you may not need to run premium gas. I am running 9.5 static compression and using regular gas with 0.038 quench.
Forged pistons-if they set the clearance to cylinder wall correctly you should be ok. I have seen piston skirts melt and gouge the cylinder wall with forged pistons and too little clearance to cylinder wall.
Thats a lot of cam lift for stock rocker shafts. They don't mention the duration at 0.05 lift. If the duration at 0.05 lift is close to 225 degrees or more, you will suffer reduced vacuum and poor drivability if you have a heavy vehicle.
Its too bad they put in hardened exhaust seats and did not bother to upgrade to larger diameter exhaust valves.
I would use a 2 hole or 4 hole carb spacer to help retain low speed torque. I think the 750 cfm is too much carb, a 650 would be plenty for a truck.
If your truck is 2 wheel drive, ask them for a milder cam, maybe a Crane 901 or the next step up. Put a set of headers on the exhaust. Headman seem to be well respected and not too expensive.
You really don't need a high volume oil pump. If they set the cam bearing clearance correctly you will have all kinds of oil pressure at engine idle. Put in a good electronic igniton system and save wear on the distributor bushings by using a standard pressure oil pump.
The price is ok I guess. Maybe not the best combination of parts for a truck, sounds better for a light weight car. Good luck and thanks for keeping our country safe.

 

speeking as another army guy why not get ahold of one of the bare blocks on ebay and make use of your local automotive skills center or auto craft shop whichever they call it and save some of your hard earned cash and do the work yourself.

 

Speaking as a retired Army maintenance guy and just my personal opinion, so take it the way you want to. Many people have been screwed big time on mail order engines and trannys. If I didn't live within reasonable driving distance of the engine builder I wouldn't buy the engine. If something is wrong with it when you start it, or if something develops during the warranty period, you have to consider labor costs and shipping costs and inconvenience removing and installing it for warranty. Even if you have a warranty, what's to keep the builder/seller from saying you caused the problem? If you have it built locally, then you are on eyeball to eyeball contact with the machine shop and will have better results. Even if you buy something like a Jasper engine from a dealer, at least you can go back to them and if there is a problem with the engine then the rebuilder and servicing dealer normally will work the problem out between them. I am not saying that all mail order rebuilders are shams, but "Buyer Beware"

 

The specs they tout, is that from actual testing of the engine on a dyno? Or are they hopeful numbers run through a sim? Or worse by adding OEM specs from added on components?

You can get an engine from Advance Auto with a much better warranty for $1400 and add components yourself.

If I was going to drop $3000 into an engine built by someone else they would have to be very local as in the same state.

Or I would order a 460 crate engine from Summit and convert my 390 drivetrain to a 460 drivetrain.

 

I have read a couple of bad stories of this particular builder on the FE forum (not this FTE FE forum). That doesn't mean you will get a bad engine and I'm not trying to bad mouth him, just passing it on.

I'm with the others. If you are going to spend $3000, just get it done locally. That way you can show up at the shop and complain if something is done wrong.

 

At $3,000 I would be looking for a local shop and checking out their feedback. That was the cost of my 67 Mustang 390 with a 428 crank and a motor balance 7 years ago. Still runs great, I like dealing locally if problems come up.

 

It sounds kinda cheap to me. Remember, you get what you pay for. How many hours does it take to do the machining and build an decent engine? How much for the parts that he put in it? I would think a high quality crate engine with a 12 month warrenty would cost at least double that.

 

High quality is the key. Get feedback about the seller no matter who you are buying it from. For me nothing beats eyeball to eyeball contact and a way to judge the seller`s character. How good will the actual warranty be and do they really stand behind their product the way they should? Minor problems can become big problems when long distance becomes involved.

 

Guys, that sounds too exspensive too me. The shop that I'm with could build that engine for you for about 2500 US dollars. But there is more to consider than just the price, as has been mentioned. Are there any shops closer to you that can do the build ? If you DO have problems, and you are dealing with a shop many miles from you.....how much of an effort are they going to make to fix things ? and this particular shop seems to have a poor reputation on one of the other boards I frequent. Its your money.....DF, @ his Dad's house

 

well 460 ft pounds at 4,0000 rpm so it is a high revving car engine. that is a lot to pay for a engine. when i am in a pinch and don't want to build my own i use S&S motor www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com they will build it stock,mild or wild and they give you a wrranty which can not be beat.