my eater coil has sprung a leak, i get the nasty oddor when i turn the heat on and fog on the window when i turn on the defrost, my only problem is that the local radiator shop who is usually on the low side came in at just under 300 buck to replace it, seems a little high for sumthing that costs less than 60 bucks. is this something i can do myself? i have factory air, and the radiator shop said that there is a lot of stuff that needs to be removed first, the guy sugested that this would be a good time to switch to the new air conditioning oil, he said R134 i think, i cant remember, but said there is a kit to do that for less than 70 bucks.....thank you.


77_f250_460

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/mil1ion/3bddeda772534da3.gif
If you like I can send a Jpeg of the removal instructions ,to see if you want to take it on.
Dennis

78 F-150 429CJ 465,000 KM.(Original Owner)
68 Mustang 289 Sunlit Gold 80,000 Miles(second Owner)
64 1/2,260 Pre-World's Fair Mustang #8092
64 Fairlane 500 S/C,waiting for a 390 4-Spd

If The Girls Don't Find You Handsome,
They Should At Least Find You Handy!

 

not to sound like a treehugger or anything, but if you convert to 134 at the same time, you need to discharge the system of r12 first, and this takes a recycler tank at an ac place. now, im sure they wouldnt charge anything to discharge it, but as for the conversion, i think if your ac works, dont fix it now, wait. r134 is not as effective as r12, and i dont know how summers are where you are, but here in georgia they can be brutal without a good cold ac system. and if your compressor isnt up to snuff the switch from 12 to 134 may not be a good thing for it. just food for thought(used to work in an auto air place....see it all the time)

mike

 

that would be great if u can could send me that file mil1ion.


also, my AC hasnt blown cold for who knows long, i bought the truck about a year ago and it hasnt worked since then, but where i live, (southern CA), i dont really need the AC, and sometimes i dont need the heater either, mostly year round i drive with the windows down, unless its raining, but i want to get the AC to blow cold once more, and i know they dont sell R12 anymore, so i was thinking that the switch may be practical at the same time. might as well get everything working right...i am kinda happy this came up before i installed my new crpet which is due from LMC in about a week, cuz radiator fluid doesnt exactly match grey....

 

Replacing a heater core on a factory air equipped truck '73-'79 is a bear!! a job I let my a/c guy do for me about 5 years ago, you do have to remove a lot of stuff to do it, including the a/c lines.
My suggestion would be to have the a/c system evaluated BEFORE you tear into the heater core job, as your evaporator might be leaking too, and there would be no additional labor to change both parts when they are in there.
I would strongly recomend aganst retro-fitting your system to R134a, I have a '78 and have begged my a/c guy to retro-fit but he won't do it, he says it will reuin my perfectly good system, I've owned my truck for almost 20 years and the only problems with the a/c system have been compressor seals, & thermostat, which we replaced with a brand new compressor & a manual thermostat when the automatic one failed.
one last note be darn sure you replace your reciever/dryer when you service your a/c, also spray PLENTY of "Blaster" or "Liquid wrench" on the threads days before attempting removal of the dryer, if you don't you may destroy the threads and make it nessessary to replace your condenser as well, & they are not available any more, & you'll end up with an ugly aftermarket unit. Rick

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/mil1ion/3bde495375045b5f.gif

I've tried sending the Heater CORE file.


Why do you have an IN-VALID E-Mail address on your send e-mail to icon?


Dennis


Dennis

78 F-150 429CJ 465,000 KM.(Original Owner)
68 Mustang 289 Sunlit Gold 80,000 Miles(second Owner)
64 1/2,260 Pre-World's Fair Mustang #8092
64 Fairlane 500 S/C,waiting for a 390 4-Spd

If The Girls Don't Find You Handsome,
They Should At Least Find You Handy!

 

Look under tech articles on the right. There is a how to in there. Does not look fun. I would probably gladly pay 300 if they would do a good job.

chris
79 F-150 Ranger Lariat, 2wd, RC, LB, 460 (intake, headers, cam), C-6(shift kit).

79 mustang (work in progress...its just slow progress)
98 Chevy 4x4 (work truck)
95 Lexus SC300 (wife's baby)

 

Ive got a '77 f150 w/ac and had to replace my blower motor which sets behind the heater core. It took hours upon hours but with a little patience and the will it can be done. It's not a difficult job by any means just time consuming. and that is why they want $300, time.

 

Its been awhile, but I don't remember having that much trouble with mine. I did it all from inside the cab, I don't think I took the A/C lines off, but like I said, its been a few years.
Dave,
79 F-150 4x4, 390 w/C6, Edelbrock carb, 33X12.50 never will be finished.

 

77,
If your going to rehab your A/C do not go R12. If you have to replace the compressor, the dryer/receiver, the soft lines, and the expansion valve, then you can go to r134a and be done with it. The problem with doing a partial conversion is getting the old oil out. Once the system is clean, your good to go. Fittings to retrofit the soft lines are all available and reasonable.They must be bearier lined for r134a.
I've replaced my heater core in my 1976 Custom Cab and it was difficult but, I did it. If you own a 77 Ford Truck and drive it evrywhere then you can do this yourself. It will be some work but when your done with it, you'll know its right and you can say you did it yourself. I've seen the old York systems converted to R134A and they work just fine. I live in Florida and I get to use my A/C from time to time. Oh yeah, I'm an air conditioning engineer, if that counts for anything.
Good Luck, Have Fun,
KingFisher

 

I've got a '75 F100 with a bad heater core also. In researching the R&R for it, the manuals I referenced said it could be done from inside the cab w/o removing the A/C lines but it did seem rather involved and required you to bend parts out of the way. Wish mine was a '79--drop the glove box, unscrew a panel, take it out and put the new one in. I don't know when the design change took place, so can't say for sure what's involved with your '77. You probably need a Chilton manual to put you on the right path.

 

Before you start the repair, try two bottles of Barr's Stop Leak (about $3 each). Did wonders on my 78 F250

 

I've done this job. It's a bear. Do it yourself. I had to saw grooves across the end of the heater box bolts and back them out with a screwdriver from the inside of the cab. I disconnected the air conditioning and was done with the project in about 1-1/2 hours. I'm a good mechanic with a good set of tools but, in my opinion, I only needed patients. The stop leak will work, only temporaryly and more than likely it will clog your heater core.
GoodLuck, Have fun,
KingFisher

 

This job isn't fun, but it can be a little easier if you don't have to reinstall the A/C junk. I replaced my heater core and removed ALL the A/C crap in about 3 hours. If you toss out all the A/C condensers and hoses it cleans up you engine bay and your engine will run a little cooler from removing that condenser that sits in front of the radiator.