Hopefully this is an easy question that someone can point me in the right direction once again.

I have a 2000 F250 4x4 ESOF. I'm not 100% convinced that the 4X4 is actually engaging properly. I can hear the transfer case shift and the light comes on the dash. But, when driving I don't really feel any kind of difference in traction. I was spinning my wheels in some snow last weekend and kicked it over to 4hi expecting to pop right out since my front wheels were on pavement, but I still sat there spinning.

Anyway, I know from older threads there are some potential problems with the esof system and I'm wondering if there is any kind of easy check to be sure the front hubs and/or transfer case are engaging like they are supposed to.

Last winter, I had all kind of traction in 4hi, this year it feels like nothing. Leads me to question what's different.

As always, I appreciate any input y'all might have.

 

Go do the same thing again. Flip the esof and try getting traction. If it fails to, put the switch back in 2wd, get out, manually lock the hubs and then put the esof in 4wd.
If it works now, you most likely have a vacuum problem, like MANY of us do. This is a known problem and many of us get out and lock the hubs when we need 4wd.

You can do an esof search and find plenty to read....

 

Been doing some reading on the esof. No shortage of reading, you are right about that!

I did try to manually lock before, but couldn't get the hubs to turn by hand. Any tricks to this?

I'm probably going to make the switch to warn hubs eventually, but would like to hold things together through the winter at least. Gets kind of chilly sitting in the driveway to work on it much.

 

Gently tap on the hub with a hammer, might just be ice or crap holding it tight.
GENTLY!!!
Then try turning it. Don't pry it with anything, hands only.
If possible, try to hose the salt out.

 

This A 2000 truck, do you do hub maintenance? I engage FWD at least once A mounth and rotate the hubs from lock to unlock every 5000 mile, I pull the hubs and relube them every 30,000. there are some problem with these hubs however, many times it's the lack of maitenance.

 

The vacuum hose came off at the back of the hub on mine. Clipped off the dry-rotted end and slid it back on. Could be that simple.

In spite of warnings not to, I gently worked the manual lock with a crescent wrench to get it loosened up.

 

I have not pulled the hubs for maintenance, but I do regularly try to engage everything when possible. Never have been able to get the hubs to rotate by hand but, then again, I was never really sure if they should be able to or not. At least, until the last couple days doing the reading on here about the various issues regarding them. Bought the truck with roughly 55K on it, so I have no idea what maintenance was/was not done early in it's life (78K on it now).

I know everything was working good a few months ago when I last really needed to rely on it.

It's not really a huge thing for the short term, I guess. Just don't want to do more damage by trying to use it if it's not working properly. So, until I get everything figured out, I'll play it safe and keep it in 2wd except for testing purposes for now.

Does a little penetrating oil sprayed around the hub do any good in getting it loosen up?

 

There's nothing wrong with that - just don't use a cheater pipe...

The pressure you apply to any wrench to help turn the hubs should be applied with just enough force to turn the hubs. Any banging or use of a cheater of any kind means you have a serious problem anyway and locking them would only make it worse.

I use a 10 inch crescent, not only because I have DRW but also because I am not as nimble as I once was. I do know how much too much is, though.

 

well I soak them with wd-40,then let that sit for awhile the I use silcone spray prior to winter .Been doing it since 02 and have not had a problem with any of them getting stuck or frozen.
Rich

 

Take the hubs off clean and lube them they should turn easly by hand.

 

F250wheels: When you say you "relube" the hubs, what do you mean? Are you just pulling out the hubs and putting grease on the splines? Or are you dis-assembling the hub itself and lubricating something inside?

Thanks!

 

I remove the hub actuator, take it apart clean and relube. In your case I would take it apart and spray it with WD-40 untill it works smooth then relude and install.

 

After reading this thread and realizing I did not manually LOCK my hubs in for quite some time, I went out and tried it. Drivers side was stiff, but turned. Passenger side would not turn, so I got out the shop manuals for the truck (2002 F-350 SC V-10) to see how to take the hubs off, disassemble and clean-lube them. I was shocked that there is one small paragraph on removing the snap ring and wiggling the hub loose to remove it, but nothing at all on taking it apart for servicing!

So, I pulled them both off and attempted to take the hubs apart. Got the large ID snap ring off, then removed the smaller OD retaining ring. Nothing came apart beyond this. Since the inside of the hub has a plastic piece that holds the needle bearing and inner splined shaft, I did want to break it, so I didn't try anything but gentle prying. Is there a special tool to pull the plastic piece out?

I wanted to pull the needle bearing out and regrease it, but without taking the guts of the hub out, there's no way to do this. I did put a little Kroil penetrating oil in the non-rotating hub and finally freed it up. Now it turns, but is still very stiff. Driver's side hub works nice and easy now though.

Anyone got any detailed instructions on how to disassemble the ESOF hubs, since Ford doesn't think it's important to tell their techs how to do it in the shop manual? Pics or text?

I have no problem taking the hubs off again to do this if I can get a detailed, step-by-step procedure for doing it.
Thanks and Happy New Year!

 

I've never seen directions for dis-assembly and maintenance of the auto-lock hub either. I have two old hubs now (after replacing them with new OEM auto-lockers). If anyone has any idea at all (or possibly even if not) I'm willing to use one of my old hubs as a test subject as I won't be out a hub if something goes wrong and I can't get it back together.


I'll wait for some directions before I go crazy taking it apart.

Also, if anyone had any doubts about the damage deep water crossing can do, here is a pic of my two old hubs (in the background) and the new ones (for comparison). Of the two old ones, only the dark, dirty one on the left seemed really bad - it was on the passenger side. Oddly, the dark dirty one moved fairly easily (though not nearly as good as the brand new ones) while the fairly clean one from the driver's side required a large plier to rotate the handle.

 

easy to disassemble.after removing the two snap rings, turn the hub upside down and gently tap with something(like a rubber mallet, piece of wood).be careful to hold the plastic retainer in, as it has a spring pushing against it and you need to see the pieces come out in the right order for putting it back together.nothing else holding it in besides the clip and friction.you don't even have to remove the smaller snap ring to do this.