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Tater, I can't believe you have to ask that question. For safety reasons you should disconnect the negative cable before pulling the tranny. On the other hand, if you use your tater force and don't turn the key to the start position, you can safely just unhook the cable from the starter and leave it hanging.
Originally Posted by Bdox
You have a lot of good info above for this job.
I would add that both the t-case and the transmission are difficult to balance on a floor jack so it is a good idea to recruit a helper for the in and out part. Drain the trans first because it will save some mess and you are going to get into it anyway.
I had the same problem with my np435 and all it needed was new bearings. It is just fore and aft wear that allows it to jump out of third so you most likely don't have to mess with the countershaft bearings unless you are hearing constant noise in first, second and third.
Noise in 1st, 2nd and 3rd but not 4th (direct drive) is a result of a problem with the pocket bearing which sits in the back end of the input shaft and supports the front of the mainshaft. If you are going to take the time to repair the tranny, do it right and replace all the bearings including the countershaft bearings.
Also, when removing and installing the trans do not let it hang from the input shaft. Damage will occur to the clutch hub or input shaft.
you are right about the input shaft bearing. But it is also true that countershaft bearings are loaded in 1st, 2nd and 3rd but not in direct (4th) so they will make much more noise in the lower gears.
The input shaft bearing and any bearings on the mainshaft, plus any thrust surfaces are in question when the trans is jumping out of gear.
you are right about the input shaft bearing. But it is also true that countershaft bearings are loaded in 1st, 2nd and 3rd but not in direct (4th) so they will make much more noise in the lower gears.
The input shaft bearing and any bearings on the mainshaft, plus any thrust surfaces are in question when the trans is jumping out of gear.
As usual you know it all. However, if the countershaft had a bearing problem it would make noise in all gears. If the noise is only in the first three gears but not direct drive (4th) it is the pocket bearing located in the rear of the input shaft.
Your second statement is true more or less but that was not what I was addressing.
As usual you know it all. However, if the countershaft had a bearing problem it would make noise in all gears. If the noise is only in the first three gears but not direct drive (4th) it is the pocket bearing located in the rear of the input shaft.
Your second statement is true more or less but that was not what I was addressing.
Chris
Why the note of bitterness? And what do you mean by true more or less? It's a fact that anything that contributes to endplay on the mainshaft is going to aggrevate the problem of jumping out of gear.
And you are right about the 'pocket' bearing, in fourth the mainshaft turns at the same speed as the input shaft so that the 'pocket' bearing doesn't turn.
Also a fact: the countershaft bearings are loaded in 1st, 2nd and 3rd but not in direct (4th) so they will make much more noise in the lower gears.
I heard that worn out syncros can cause the trans to jump out of gear.
Is there any truth to this?
I don't know.... I have been googling the heck out of that question but nothing I found addresses it directly. What I do know is that all the mainshaft bearings and all thrust surfaces on the mainshaft assembly can wear. The combined wear allows the mainshaft to move fore and aft so that it gets harder to move the selector hub all the way into position when you shift.
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