Removing NP435
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2005
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Removing NP435
Well looks like I may have to have my tranny looked at. It's a 4-speed manual and when I let off the accelerator when in 3rd gear she pops out on her own.
Can I remove the tranny by myself. I take it all I have to do after removing the drive-shaft, transfer case is to unbolt it from the bell housing once I've removed the aluminum top cover? Am I asking for trouble? I am mechanically inclined.
Can I remove the tranny by myself. I take it all I have to do after removing the drive-shaft, transfer case is to unbolt it from the bell housing once I've removed the aluminum top cover? Am I asking for trouble? I am mechanically inclined.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
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I have always removed the floor pan and left the trans top on. If you have someone who can help, even someone not very strong, they can use the shifter to help support the weight and maneuver the trans from above. If you're doing it alone, just remove the actual shifter, not the entire top cover. A trans jack or quality floor jack with some dunnage is a godsend. I would advise against man-handling the tranny by using the shafts; but I've done it that way many times (Note: that is foolish and extremely dangerous!!) You'll also have to remove the starter, and when you do, make sure the positive lead is disconnected from the battery.
Good Luck,
Ernie
Good Luck,
Ernie
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,192
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From: lino lakes, mn
a 435 is very awkward to change they are tall narrow and heavy a floor jack is a must a floor jack with a tranny adapter is prefered I've pulled them with and w/o the tranfercase w/o is a ton easier unbolt the tranny from the bell housing dont forget to support the engine so it does flop back to far good luck
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
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You don't have to remove the starter if you don't unbolt the bell housing. If you're that far in, I feel like not replacing the $12 to brg and at least checking the clutch is a mistake. That's me though.
Last edited by GreenSubmarine; Dec 20, 2005 at 10:26 PM.
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,441
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From: Muskegon, MI (home)
I've done this a few times, it's all too familiar to me. First disconnect the battery and remove the starter. Remove floor shift boot(s) and shift lever(s). Disconnect reverse light switch and speedometer cable. Remove driveshaft(s) and transfer case (if applicable), remove bellhousing bolts. Unbolt transmission mount and raise the trans with a floor jack. Finally remove crossmember and CAREFULLY separate the trans from the engine (small prybars and large slotted screwdrivers work good for this) and lower the transmission from the truck. Assemble in reverse order, it helps to have and extra set of hands. I have done this before by my self, but it's a PITA! Over all it's not a bad job to do, but you will spend the better part of your weekend under the the truck. Good luck!
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
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No. There's no wat to support it behind the crossmember, and you don't want it on a jack or something because it will be in your way while trying to get the tranny out. Additionally, you probably have an aluminum body tcase, which uses ATF for fluid, and it will drip and run all over the place. The tcase isn't very heavy, so just drain it, and then get it out of your way.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,499
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From: Missoula, MT.
umm question....
do ya realy have to disconnect the battery...ive always done it with the battery connected, since my cable is pretty long it will sit on the ground without pulling it them...the red isn't hot unless the key is "start" correct?
or maybe im a tard?
do ya realy have to disconnect the battery...ive always done it with the battery connected, since my cable is pretty long it will sit on the ground without pulling it them...the red isn't hot unless the key is "start" correct?
or maybe im a tard?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
You have a lot of good info above for this job.
I would add that both the t-case and the transmission are difficult to balance on a floor jack so it is a good idea to recruit a helper for the in and out part. Drain the trans first because it will save some mess and you are going to get into it anyway.
I had the same problem with my np435 and all it needed was new bearings. It is just fore and aft wear that allows it to jump out of third so you most likely don't have to mess with the countershaft bearings unless you are hearing constant noise in first, second and third.
I would add that both the t-case and the transmission are difficult to balance on a floor jack so it is a good idea to recruit a helper for the in and out part. Drain the trans first because it will save some mess and you are going to get into it anyway.
I had the same problem with my np435 and all it needed was new bearings. It is just fore and aft wear that allows it to jump out of third so you most likely don't have to mess with the countershaft bearings unless you are hearing constant noise in first, second and third.