boxing plate thickness?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 307
Likes: 21
From: Carnation, WA
boxing plate thickness?
Hi All,
Very quick question re boxing plates fro the chassis. I have now decided to box from front to rear and have also found a freaindly local chap with a plasma cutter to cut them out for me.
Now when I dropped my templates off to him he asked what thickness the plates are to be? Now I was sure that the chassis was made out of 3/16" thick steel, but he said he had made many boxing plates in the past and they were usually 1/8" thick.
So what should they be? or is it just a matter of preference?
Oh, and Happy holidays to all from over in the UK!
Lee
Very quick question re boxing plates fro the chassis. I have now decided to box from front to rear and have also found a freaindly local chap with a plasma cutter to cut them out for me.
Now when I dropped my templates off to him he asked what thickness the plates are to be? Now I was sure that the chassis was made out of 3/16" thick steel, but he said he had made many boxing plates in the past and they were usually 1/8" thick.
So what should they be? or is it just a matter of preference?
Oh, and Happy holidays to all from over in the UK!
Lee
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 3
From: Friendswood, Texas
I need to chek the thickness on my 50 Frames but they do not appear to be anyhwere near 3/16" thick. My gues is that they are no more than 1/8" thick (probably 10GA, 12GA, or 14GA sheetmetal) so I should think that 1/8" thick would be fine for the boxing plates.
Last edited by texan2004; Dec 20, 2005 at 03:45 AM.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 307
Likes: 21
From: Carnation, WA
Thanks Texan2004,
I guess It will also be saving a lot of weight too sticking with 1/8".
I will get him to work on cutting them out, and maybe I will get the job underway during the Christmas break.
Cheers
Lee
I guess It will also be saving a lot of weight too sticking with 1/8".
I will get him to work on cutting them out, and maybe I will get the job underway during the Christmas break.
Cheers
Lee
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 21,984
Likes: 9,837
From: Rio Rancho, NM
I used 1/8". I got lucky and was able to get some drop from my buddies shop so all mine cost me was labor and welding consumables.
Goodl luck with it Lee
Bobby
Goodl luck with it Lee
Bobby
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 307
Likes: 21
From: Carnation, WA
Thanks Again guys,
I am hoping to get the plates by the end of the week. Which means I could be busy over the christmas break. Well If the good lady lets me...
I will be sure to take pics of the progress, to add to my gallery.
Cheers
Lee
I am hoping to get the plates by the end of the week. Which means I could be busy over the christmas break. Well If the good lady lets me...
I will be sure to take pics of the progress, to add to my gallery.
Cheers
Lee
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,881
Likes: 1
From: North of Tulsa, Oklahoma
Wow, access to somebody with a Plasma cutter, you're lucky. I had my local welder use his cutting torch on my 1/8" boxing plates. I had it all marked with permanent marker and he followed the lines exactly. I'm using the FatMan MII crossmember on my '50 F1, that's why I opted with the thicker plates.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 21,984
Likes: 9,837
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Originally Posted by halfdone
3mm.
I prefer to inset the boxing plates about 8-10mm (stepped box) and leave the welds ungound. You only need to stitch weld. 50mm weld, 50 mm gap
Look in my gallery
I prefer to inset the boxing plates about 8-10mm (stepped box) and leave the welds ungound. You only need to stitch weld. 50mm weld, 50 mm gap
Look in my gallery
Bobby
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Just be sure to measure the frame on the diagonals and support it dead level in all directions with a couple jackstands under each rail at a crossmember. Weight the rails with a couple 25Kg bags of sand over each support. Limit welds to 1" tacks and skip around front to rear, side to side, and top to bottom as far apart as possible. Let each weld cool to the touch before making another weld anywhere near a previous one. If you don't you'll be very unpleasantly surprised at how much the rails will twist and warp from the heat.
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