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Hi,
I am contemplating replacing the radius arm bushings on my 78 F350 2 wheel drive. I have read various posts about the proceedure and discovered that some of the trucks have rivets, and some have bolts towards the front of the radius arms that have to be removed. I just went out to see if I had the bolts or rivets and discovered that I could not find either. The reason for this is this truck used to be owned by a paving company and there is hardened asphalt in the area where I think the bolts are. I tried knocking this stuff off with a hammer and chisle but this stuff is really on there. Any ideas how I can get this stuff off, and if I do locate the fasteners what is the best way to remove the rivets if that is what I have. Considering the circumstances maybe the best thing would be to have a shop replace the bushings.......thanks
[font color=red size=2]The bracket that holds the bushing has 6-8 rivets/bolts that hold it to the frame. I've seen guys torch, grind or drill the rivets - what ever you like.
When I did mine this summer, I replaced the bushings where the Ibeams pivot in the frame and the radius arm bushings. So I just dropped the whole Ibeam. Just pull loose the brake caliper, shock, coil spring, radius arm (at bushing), remove pivot bolt and drop the whole unit. Then I put in new poly bushings and put it back together. Wow, what a difference! Mine had never been changed, it was a big improvement going from almost no bushings to new poly bushings.
Pat, The radius arm should have a nut on it where it passes through the frame mount. You will have to remove the nut to be able to pull the axles forward to replace the bushing, or does your truck have a straight front axle? If so disregard the above.
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John
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
I did mine this past spring. My 250 had a combination of rivits and bolts (one rivit per side). I was almost home free I guess. Anyway I ground the head off of the rivit and drove it out of the frame with the old drift and hammer deal. Replaced it with a grade 8. The asphalt...boy I wish I could help ya out. Maybe heat source and a thick putty knife? Some type of solvent to disolve it?
When I replaced the bushings on my '70 F100, I disconnected the pitman arm, raised the front of the truck and removed the clamps that hold the tops of the springs from the frame. I was able to easily pull the I-beam and radius arm assembly out of the frame mount after removing the bug nut.
My dad tried replacing these bushings once by pulling the I-beam foward with a come-along, but it wouldn't clear the bracket, so he ended up taking out the rivets anyway.
I would sugest melting the asphalt with a torch, but then thought bad idea. I think the brake and fuel lines both run right above it, and you don't want to boil those. Maybe somone else has a solution for that?
I'll be dropping the whole I-beam assembly when I change my truck to disc, so I'm gonna put poly bushings in then.
Thanks for the info guys. JOWILKER, the truck has the twin I beam front end and is 2 wheel drive so I am embarassed to say I don't know if this is a straight axle or not. I will try the heat thing to remove the asphalt and if that don't work maybe I can try a little air chisle action on that stuff....thanks again.
Matt, your Dad must not have released the coils at the top or something, because with a comealong, they should have comealong and out.
Pat some of the F350s and larger have a single straighr axle under them rather than the Twins. :-)
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John
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[link:www.ford-trucks.com/users/jowilker|My Club FTE Page] Member since 01 01
[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NCFTO] North Carolina Ford Truck Owners Group
In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
Use an old spray bottle filled with diesel fuel or kerosene. Spray it on a couple fo times during the week to soften up the asphalt and by Saturday that stuff will come off with a puty knife. Be careful of drips on the driveway. Uh, not you...I mean the stains, unless your driveway is asphalt, then park the truck on the lawn.
William in Atlanta
Just be careful what type of PLASTIC spray bottle you put that kerosene in. You could have an ugly mess sitting on your work bench in the morning - like putting gas in a milk jug.
I'd use a metal oil-squirting can (with the little finger trigger) & diesel fuel. A few days & I agree, tar will be easy to remove.
Also, when I did my busings, I put the truck up high on jack-stands under the frame, used the floor jack to allow me to remove the I-beam from the coil spring, and with a 36" pry-bar and manipulating the jack, got the radius arm out of the bracket (with the nut removed, of course) with no issue.
Guys I just learned something, and I don't know which year it started. I just parted out a 78, (recycling I-beam prettys for the older brothers) and was looking at the receiver on the frame. That piece is bolted on, where as my 66 is rivited on. So you may be able to put the new bushings in without all that straining.
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John
jowilker email me
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/users/jowilker|My Club FTE Page] Member since 01 01
[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NCFTO] North Carolina Ford Truck Owners Group
In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.