Hello everyone,

I have done searches on the forum for information about how to replace radius arm bushings on 2WD twin I's. Some experienced wrenchers recommend removing/replacing the frame bracket rivets as a simpler alternative to dropping the beams. Does drilling/grinding the rivets and replacing them with bolts increase the liklihood of any other problems? Anyone regret having done this? Anyone think Ford should have made it without rivets in the first place?

Thanks alot!

Andy

 

Cutting the brackets off to replace the radius arm bushings is pretty much the way everyone I talk to on here does them. As long as you use good quality Grade 8 bolts to put them back on you won't have any additional problems, plus you'll have the added benefit of having them easy to take off next time you do them.

I had never dropped I-beams out of a truck until I had started my 2 to 4 WD conversion on my 84. I didn't think it was that hard at all, plus I was shocked at how bad the pivot bushings were in both the I-beams and the 4WD front axle. Most of the rubber was gone. Took them out by driving out the rubber, then cutting the metal part of the bushing with a chisel and sliding it out. My book said you needed a special tool to replace them, but I lubed them up and drew them in with a couple washers, a large socket, and a piece of threaded rod. From laying under the truck, you couldn't even tell the bushings were that bad until they were pulled out.

Guess it all depends on your preferences. Other than pulling the wheel, brake caliper, and shock, there isn't that much to pull the I-beam out, and check those bushings. Or lay under there and grind those rivets out

 

I cut my rivets out and replaced with grade 8 almost a year ago. Checked them a few times to see if I had any problems and everything was cool. I think quite a few people have done the bushings this way. My brackets had bolts and rivets both originally. Go figure.

 

Andy, It seems that Ford got a better idea and started installing bolts instead of rivits as the years went on. I guess you have to decide wheather you want to ****** the beams out of the holes, or cut the rivits and knock the perches off.
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[font color=red size=2]About 6mo ago I replaced both the radius arm bushings and the pivot bushings with poly bushings. It made a HUGE improvement on the road. Just drop the I beam/radius arm together and swap bushings. With poly bushings there is no need to press the pivot bushing (like with rubber ones), just burn out the old one with a torch (very stinky) and slide the new one in, easy. It took me an afternoon to swap them.

Both bushings take about the same amount of movement/abuse when driving, so it stands to reason that if one is worn, the others are too... Even though they looked fine on the truck, my pivot bushings were shot.

Marty

 

I agree But, use some really good bolts and nuts. I suggest grade 5 minimum

Bear Tracks

 

Thanks for all the good information.

My entire front suspension needs attention, so it may be good to drop the I beams to replace the pivot bushings. I'm sold on polyurethane! How heavy is the spindle/beam/arm assembly? Do I have to handle both beams at the same time, or can they be removed independently? Are '76 F250 SuperCab spindle/beam/arm assemblies heavier than average F150's? I am not a fellow of super strength! I guess I would use a floor jack for the lifting and use my own power to control the placement.

About the arm bracket rivets, one post suggested that the rivets have been known to wear loose. Any comment on this? If that is a problem, it may be wise to replace the rivets with bolts regardless of how I replace the arm bushings.

If I discover that my kingpins need work, would it be significantly cheaper to dismount the beams and have a shop deal with the bushings, etc, or to just drive the truck to a shop and have them do the work with the beams still on the truck?

I'm full of questions, I know.

Thanks,

Andy

 

The I-beams won't be that heavy to handle, and you won't have to handle them both at once. A floor jack probably would come in handy. I'd stick the radius rod end in with the rear side of the bushing off, just the nut and washer just started on first. Give you a little extra slop to handle the I-beam while you stick it back in the frame bracket. Put the floor jack under the spindle and you'll only have to handle the little bit of weight of one end of the I Beam to put the bolt through. As far as cutting the bracket off, that is still a matter of personal preference. If you want to do it while you're under there, by all means do it!

I'd check with a machine shop about the king pins. They really aren't that bad to do it yourself, especially if you go with the nylon bushings. I prefer the metal bushings, but that's another whole subject...I usually force the kingpins out through the top, using the weight of the vehicle to aid removing them. Pull the caps off the spindle and pull the wedge bolt out. I support the vehicle on the frame with a jack. Use stands or blocks as an added safety. Then take a steel bar, slightly smaller than the kingpin, and set it on a steel plate. You can drill a hole through a 4x4 block to help hold the bar in place. Jack the truck up, and put the bar up against the bottom of the kingpin. Let the weight down on the pin, and take a hammer to the axle. Works a lot better than trying to beat the pin down through. Jack the truck lower as the pin moves up. Of course you're gonna want to soak everything down real good with penetrating oil before you start...they can be tight sometimes!