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Help-What Lockers are out there??

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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 07:54 PM
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From: Dryden ON.
Help-What Lockers are out there??

I would like to put a rear locker(or both front& rear) in my truck I'm not sure what kind of diff's I have (60's??) I have an 02 F350. Could anyone help me with what products are out there for our trucks? It seems that some after markets don't make them for the bigger Diffs. Thanks for your input in advance.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 08:26 PM
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today while browsing, i saw some eaton e-lockers on www.dieselmanor.com
 
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 08:41 PM
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You should be able to get just about anything you want for your truck.
ARB, Lockright. Detroit just to name a few.



Dick
 
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 09:05 PM
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i am no expert or anything, but i would get the detroit locker for the rear and an ARB for the front.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 10:03 PM
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From: Phenix City, AL
Originally Posted by bf250
i am no expert or anything, but i would get the detroit locker for the rear and an ARB for the front.
For and extra $100 - 200 yopu can put ARB's front and rear

Before we get into the ones available, what do you want to do with the truck and we'll try to give you the best options for the info you give us.

Is it a daily driver? Is it a tow vehicle? Is it used mostly on road or off? What size tires are on it? Do you live in a snow / ice climate?

These are all important to help us give you the best advise on a rather expensive purchase.

For the front D60, it's wide open, you can get anything. But up front, you WANT a selectable locker or an LS. If you drive on the road or in snowy conditions, you DO NOT want a full locker up front. I would say get a Detroit True Trac LSD (very good unit) or a Detroit Elctrac, an ARB, or an Auburn ECTED.

For the rear 10.5, you are a little bit more limited, but not much. Mostly only in the selectable area. Again, if it's a DD and used for towing, you DO NOT want a full locker in the back. This is bad for both tire wear and if you have a heavy enough tongue weight or load in the bed, you risk breaking parts. Also, if you live in a snow / ice climate (I think you do) a full locker can be a little tricky. Again, go with a Detroit True Trac (if your tire sizes are under 35") or a selectable. The only selectable available for the 10.5 is the ARB.

Hope this helps ya out.

BFR
 

Last edited by BFR250SD; Dec 17, 2005 at 10:43 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 11:17 PM
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From: Dryden ON.
Yes I do live in the North so the TrueTrac sounds Good- It seemed that when I was looking for lockers-Alot came up for smaller vehicles like Jeeps. I did not Know what Diffs I had, Now I do, A 60 and a 10.5 Thanks guys.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 11:33 PM
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From: Phenix City, AL
Are you doing gears or anything at the same time?

Here are the part numbers from Randy's

For the rear True trac: TT 915A550
For the Front: TT 915A387 (4.10 gears and down), TT 915A388 (4.56 up)

You can use the A387 with numerically higher gears, if you use the thick cut gears sets. Just in case you are gonna do gears along with the diffs.

Example: My ARB in the front is for 4.10's down, but I run the thick cut gears and run 4.56's.
 

Last edited by BFR250SD; Dec 17, 2005 at 11:37 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 12:50 AM
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From: Dryden ON.
I think I'm going to keep the 3.73 right now(Not going any bigger tire wise) why does it make a diference of what gears you have, Is there a measurement in there for the locking mechanism or something. I notice the trutrac does not show for the 3.73 I'm new to this kind of stuff. The only thing I know about Diff's is that they are rightly so named because they truly are all different.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 01:38 AM
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From: Phenix City, AL
It's for 4.10 and numerically lower gears, this includes your 3.73's.

The reason there is a difference, is what happens to the size of the pinion gear when the ratios change.

In order to go numerically higher, the pinion gears physical diameter, as well as tooth count, get smaller. What this would do is move it farther from the ring gear, causing a gap. This can be compensated in one of two ways.

1 - You can use the same carrier (differental) and get a thick gear set, or

2 - You use the other carrier, which compensates by having a thicker flange to mount the ring gear too.

Both do the same thing, they move the mating surface of the ring gear closer to the pinion gear, so you achieve a good pattern.

If you are even considering going to higher gears, do it all at the same time. Otherwise it will cost you twice as much. To do a diff swap, they have to remove and re-install the gear sets, which costs anywhere from 250 - 500 per axle, depending on where you get it done.

If you decide later that you want deeper gears, you will have to pay this price again, to get the same thing done.

A new set of gears and the install kits will run you around $400 - 600. I know 4WP is actually having a sale right now on front and rear gear and install kits.

Just some food for thought.
 

Last edited by BFR250SD; Dec 18, 2005 at 01:44 AM.
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