Diff questions
First are there any specific brands that are better than others? I am partial to eaton and or Detroit locker however they only offer positrack and auto locker is there any other brands yall would suggest that would allow me to control when it is locked?
Second question I have rebuilt a few diffs mostly on jeeps and the sterling from what research I can find on it seems similar to the Dana set up obviously way stronger but I have never had to do a complete rebuild with gears and all can anyone tell me if there is a tool that measures the pinion depth or is it really a trial by error method for finding the correct pinion depth? Most of the research and how to's I've seen utilize the trial by error method to set the depth and I gotta believe there's a better way
Any useful help is always greatly appreciated

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First are there any specific brands that are better than others? I am partial to eaton and or Detroit locker however they only offer positrack and auto locker is there any other brands yall would suggest that would allow me to control when it is locked?
Second question I have rebuilt a few diffs mostly on jeeps and the sterling from what research I can find on it seems similar to the Dana set up obviously way stronger but I have never had to do a complete rebuild with gears and all can anyone tell me if there is a tool that measures the pinion depth or is it really a trial by error method for finding the correct pinion depth? Most of the research and how to's I've seen utilize the trial by error method to set the depth and I gotta believe there's a better way
Any useful help is always greatly appreciated




I had a True Trac in the rear of my 4X4 Suburban and can't remember having to engage the front end once to get through some pretty heavy stuff..... glad I had 4WD, but didn't need it after I installed the True Trac.
Just my thoughts....
Oh yeah, and while you have the diff torn apart, I would go ahead and install 4:30 gears from Ford. 4:30's made a HUGE difference in the performance of my Ex.
With the rear wheels locked the back end acts completely different on snow/ice roads in that the rear wheels can't spin at different speeds, this causes one wheel to break traction anytime they are not going perfectly straight ahead, on crowned roads the rear end slids to the low point, around turns the rear breaks loose and wants to spin you out. Yes this happens in open diffs as well but it is exegerated with a locked rear.
Typical road driving with a locked rear end is less then ideal, obviously where having both wheels getting power is best is avoiding getting stuck. But even then the rear of the vehicle will seek the lowest point or fall line as soon as the wheels slip.
The solution ? Either a selectable locker like an ARB or a turning brake that you can use to lock the wheel that is not getting traction when you are trying to either get unstuck or avoiding getting stuck. ( with practice you can become somewhat effective using e emergency brake to this effect also )
I have front and rear ARB's and I rarely have to engage 4wd out exploring in the desert, I just lock the rear and that usually does the trick. 4wd sure is nice towing in the snow however

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The solution ? Either a selectable locker like an ARB or a turning brake that you can use to lock the wheel that is not getting traction when you are trying to either get unstuck or avoiding getting stuck. ( with practice you can become somewhat effective using e emergency brake to this effect also )
I have front and rear ARB's and I rarely have to engage 4wd out exploring in the desert, I just lock the rear and that usually does the trick. 4wd sure is nice towing in the snow however

your arb's are they manual or electric lockers have they ever given you any issues? I will definitely look into them thanks for the tip
ARB's are solid and proven design. We have been using them in Rock crawling for years and they get abused way more in a day then your Ex will ever dish out in a lifetime.
40" tires and 500 hp and they live just fine. ( the ford 9" model has a weakness due more to the axle design )
I don't know what is involved with retrofitting the OEM e-locker into your computer system but if you could find a used one of those it may be an option.
otherwise here are your choices.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/eSearch.a...ary&Ntt=locker
There is ONLY one event that I wish I could temporarily have 4:56's and that is when I hook up to 8500 lbs of travel trailer and head for mountains. Usually we are in mild grades and flatlands, and the Ex performs wonderfully in those places. It still gets the job done in mountains, but with more effort (high RPM's and downshifting more).
I know from another member on this forum who has 4:56's and he reports that his Ex is an absolute locomotive with them. Kinda up to you on whether you will really NEED the extra grunt more often than not. You will be very happy with either one I'm sure of it!
DSN thanks for the input on gears I will most likely end up with the 4:30's at best I will run maybe 2 tire sizes larger and I don't really tow much maybe 4500lbs from time to time the ex is more of a Cadillac for my 3 Great Danes... Worst case I kick myself and end up changing to 4:56 later on in life but doubt highly that I will need that much gear
Thanks again to all who chimed in on this still can't believe that there isn't a tool that someone knows of for measuring pinion depth oh well maybe I'll get it right the first time ha ha
If there is a weakness in the design it is the air hose. Not so much the material as it is durable enough ( you can get a stainless braided upgrade but it is more for show IMHO ). But in the 5mm metric size. The only place to get the dang stuff is from ARB or a ARB dealer, had they used a standard 1/4 line it would be much more convenient. The only other issue is burning up the compressor but that is typically done when people don't use the factory wiring and the compressor runs continuously or gets submerged ( off roading ). The compressor doesn't really run much , just a few second to build pressure as the ARB doesn't use volume of air but pressure. If you hear the compressor running continually during operation turn it off until you find out why and correct the problem. The fittings are remarkable leak resistant ( in 15 years I don't recall mine ever leaking at a fitting ) but I have damaged a hose due to routing it poorly. Unfortunately the ARB will leak from an O inside the unit if you are not careful and damage it during install.
Yukon gear also builds a air locker for the sterling 10.5 axle
I am not up to date on pricing but they are likely a few hundred bucks less expensive.
The Yukon air locker is a "zip" locker. Long story short is the design was "inspired " by the older ARB design. Some will argue the older ARB design to be better but the new design is well proven, it is or was all just industry drama. I have been to the Yukon factory and I would have no qualms with the quality of the product. Ford vs Chevy kind of argument IMHO







