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I have a 1951 F-1. The roof is seriously rotted mainly across the body seam on the back. Also the truck used to be a service tgruck for a Sunoco service station years ago and the cent of the roof is cut and rotted out where the flasher would have been. So after considering the amount of work it would take to fix the rot and damage, the fact that I wanna have something different I want to do a removeable Carson top. Kinda like the 30something truck that was built for Miller Welders. Any body got any good advice or ideas on building a Carson top?
It would be a cool custom touch for sure. I would hate to see someone with a nice truck do it but from what you described your truck sounds like a perfect canidate.
I didn't know what a Carson Top was so a I did a Google search and the first page that popped up had a pretty decent discription on how to do one:
The Carson Top is designed to be Long, Low, and Heavy Looking, to go with the Lead Sled look, where it was born. I'm not sure how that would flow with a Pickup.
I believe that the Roadster Pickup (RPU) look would be better. Either with a true fold down top or the shaped metal convertable top with thhe fold lines, etc.
"the term generically refers to any one-piece, padded, upholstered, removeable top" Why can't it be short and tall? - don't know about heavy but that works with trucks anyway.
Like 4tl8ford said, I'm not sure how a true carson top would look on a truck. I think a roadster design or removeable hard/soft would look good. Good luck with your decision.
as I had said I want to be different. I figure when I cut the roof off I am gonna chop the windshield as well as rake the windshield back a few degrees to really give it a roadster look. That combined with a 4" cab only body drop (channel) to get all the body lines matched up and suicide doors should give it a real nice rodster look.
I had a 50 Dodge pick-up that someone had cut the roof off to make a "convertible/roadster, The doors and the rear bulkhead area were rounded off at the tops making it into a true roadster, BIG problem was so much flex when the top was removed..the doors would not stay shut.
If you go this route make sure you brace the back panel somehow. I got frustrated with the one I had and sent it "down the road", it did look neat though.
Hey 46achers I also had the concern of flex and body fatigue. I am gonna run bucket seats it with a custom made center console. Under thge console I plan on adding steel bracing from the back wall to the floor and also on the ousides of the seats adding some braces to make the back wall solid especially seeing that I want suicide doors. Hiding the bracing will be the trick. If it all works out the way it does in my head I will be happier than a virgin in a cat house!!! LOL ...
The console deal should work, mine had a bench seat, was going to brace it from underneath, but didn't think that would do it. I think you are on the right track.
Suicide doors are a pain in the A-- to get in and out of, friend had a 38 coupe with them, they were cool, but......AND a lot of work to do.
Dave
BIG problem was so much flex when the top was removed..the doors would not stay shut.
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Have you seen the movies where the door on an airplane pops open, and the vacuum sucks everybody out. Put some kind of positive locks on those doors or keep it under 350 mph. Seriously...I had a door on my 32 (suicide) pop open at about 40mph. Once the wind catches it theres no way you can hold it shut. Just pull over to the side of the road, and walk back and get the door out of the road. It will have the hindges still attached along with whatever they were bolted too.
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XFM...
Actually the do still make cars with rear hinged doors (suicide) take a look at the rear doors on a new Mazda RX8. I think the 3rd door on Saturns are rear hinged as well. It would require a lot of internal body bracing to keep the body rigid, about 100' of 1x1 square tubing should about do it. Use a set of bearclaw latches and the safety latches they sell for 33-34 Ford coupe doors. Use a couple sets of convertible top latches or the ones Mazda uses for the removable hardtop on the Miata. You'll still need to repair the top or build a new one tho so the upholsterer has something to attach the padding and covering to. Be nice if you could incorporate the side window channels into the top so you wouldn't have a window frame on the doors when the top is removed. I remember seeing a mid fifties F100 with a padded vinyl top, but it wasn't removable. Looked quite good.