I'm curious about that remark. Care to elaborate? If I understand correctly, you mean welded to the tongue or drawbar?

 

Yes. NTSB, DOT, NHTSA actually would fail a trailer with welded only chains. If they are bolted, and then welded, that is safe. If they are only welded, the chance of them breaking are greater than being bolted alone. I have had much experience, and extensive training in the towing industry. My training includes transporting vehicles, towing trailers, and I have towed every thing from motorcycles to RVs. Safety chains properly attached are a biggy for me.

 

My trailer brakes work great, when towing it empty, the whole package stops quicker than the truck does on it's own. I have been tempted to pull the trailer all the time just for the better braking. kills my MPG though so maybe not.

 

You know I just picked up a 2 5/16th ball from Wally's the other day. It didn't seem to have any info on what was rated for weight. Would I be better off getting a ball from Tractor Supply or somewhere that actually sells trailer parts? They sell alot of stuff at ours. That's where I got my brake controller and the harness. We have no trailer "dealer" in our town.

Thinking about it, I got my insert for my receiver hitch from Wally's also. Should that be replaced? I have no idea what it's rated for.......pulling a flatbed, 22ft? with Jeep on it more regular than anything else. But has been known to have more than that on it.

I drive slow and steady for the record. I know it's all about personal opinion, personal experience, and having a solid tow rig, but when I get passed by a loaded semi-trailer at 70 and he's booking along, maybe 80ish, does that mean it's OK cause' he's built big, FWIW, built to run? I think fast equals error or chance of error. When you out weigh most of what's on the road, I really believe you should relagate yourself to the limit or darn close to it. If anything, run a little slower for the cost of fuel, and wear and tear of equipment.

Not arguing, or flaming, just trying to get people to realize, some of us transport kids in small cars due to economics. VW hatchback + 5 people, 3 of them kids, against say a SuperDuty dually pulling a 30ft+ fiver.

Who do you thing walks away from that VW...........chances are not a soul.


However, I have now joined the ranks of the better prepared, fully functional lights and brakes. Ashamed to admit the first time I pulled the flatbed I had no working brakes (the truck was in need of new wiring), or lights on the trailer.

New wiring front to back, new brake controller, new connector on the truck, good to go and will see you out there. Be safe and Happy Holidays to all.

 

I wouldn't buy any safety type items from Wal-Mart, Fred-Meyers, K-Mart, ETC. I would go to the tractor supply, or some form of trailer place. You know you will get quality equipment that has been tested, and built to exceed the standards. Cheap is not always a good idea.

 

Thanks. I'll head over there today or tomorrow.

 

Regardless of where you buy, look to see if there is a rating stamped on the item, and/or ANSI spec numbers, etc. Also check to see if there is a US distributor or manufacturers website for specs. Actually no different than any other consumer purchase - check the specs before you buy.... JMHO!

 

Very good point alchymist. I agree with checking the spec very closely. I personally do have a preference to where I buy any parts like that. Most department stores do not stock or have available a quality item like that. Most of there items I have found to be like factory seconds. We have a great safety supply place her in Redmond, OR and I have spent nearly $200 for a very high quality hitch for the stinger of the rollbed. Most people can get away with lesser quality, but in my world, NO WAY JOSE'. Peoples lives depend on us having quality equipment that meets or exceeds the market standards, and there is no room for Wal-Mart in our world.

 

> I had rather see you and your truck in the ditch turned over than to see your
> breakaway trailer shoved through the windshield of an oncoming suv resting
> on the dead bodies of it's passengers.

AMEN TO THAT BROTHER!

Proof positive:

http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/06105/682463-85.stm

Nothing like killing a father and two of his triplets for lack of safety chains. This wonderful father and his two innocent babies killed by a selfish moron.

For my small 1500 pound trailer I built I used grade 8 3/8" bolts and 5/16 grade 43 chain plus shackles since I worry about those S links bouncing off. I rather have my van upside down in a ditch full of water then take out an innocent family in a van with my POJ trailer.

 

Nothing to add to that, I just pray the others can learn from the unfortunate event.

 

Maybe the chains broke

 

Or possibly they were not there.
And if they did not find the missing pieces, you know who is going to jail for manslaughter.

But this was my point exactly.

 

Safety chains attach at both ends. There are two of them. When a chain breaks, it fails at one link. The chances of both chains failing at both ends and completely falling off are very slim. If they're looking for links, there must be remnants of the chains still attached either to the tow vehicle or the trailer.
If not........

 

Gents, just seeing this informative and passionate thread for the first time ... good stuff ...

Can anyone recommend some web sites for trailer/towing parts e.g. quality hitch *****, receiver pins (a seeming weak link not discussed) ...

I'm considering purchasing a used horse trailer and the previous owner never ever lubed the hitch ball or the weight distribution mechanisms ... and will likely want to replace the ball, receiver pins and chains ..

 

I get most of my stuff from etrailer (dot) com. Real helpful, and usually have the best prices.