I tow a lot of weight and often.
I am also a retired professional truck driver.
I have seen first hand over a dozen break away trailers.
I can't even count the number of wrecks I've seen caused by improper weight distribution on the trailer.

What I know about responsibility,
The entire rig I am driving is my responsibility, the loading, the hooking, the tie downs, the safety equipment and the vehicle equipment condition inspection both before and during the trip.
It is also my responsibility to maintain control of my rig for the safety of other people and property.

What I know about my attempt to live up to my responsibility,
I know that if my trailer unhooks from the hitch for any reason as long as it is attached by even one chain I have a better chance of controlling what it does or does not hit.
I also know that if I put my truck in the ditch with a 14,000 pound trailer dragging by the safety chains that I stand a better chance of living to tell about it in my 8,000 pound truck than the family of 6 that are on the other side of the road coming toward me in a 4,500 pound minivan do if the trailer hits them head on.
I also know that even if I do not survive the crash, if I miss the minivan and do not kill or mangle an entire family that I did my best to live up to my responsibility.
Equipment no matter how expensive is replaceable, life is not.
I also know that no matter if it is human error or equipment failure, if it was because of my vehicle if someone has to die I would rather it be me than the unfortunate person in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Not all roads I tow on are 4 lane divided roads, I bet not all the roads you tow on are either, even though the above posts would lead you to think that. On a divided highway the trailer may not make it to the other lanes, on a two lane road it will about 70 percent of the time.

Yes, I have seen the trailer break away and wreck the towing vehicle.
Have you ever seen one slam head on into a car on a two lane road?
I have and there were fatalities just because the car was in the wrong place at the right time.

 

I have to agree with you dave but where I'm towing and where your towing are to different places, even when we are on a two lane road I bet in the 45 miles to the lake I pass no more than 5 vehicles, that leaves about 10 seconds (2 sec danger zone per vehicle while passing) in a 40 min drive that my trailor could hit an on coming car in the other lane. I do agree that a good majority will cross the center lane on a nondivided highway but just curiously how do you get 70%?? If this comes from somewhere let us know, maybe personal experiance as I have had, which may or maynot be the normal occuance it that situation. Wouldn't it be a 50/50 chance and since the road is crowned towards the ditch wouldn't that lead you to beleve that its probably less than a 50% chance of it crossing the center lane. So outa those 10 secs that my trailor could kill someone less than 50% of the time it would actually cross the middle line which leaves about 4 secs in a 40 minute trip that this would happen, lets see, 40 min x 60 sec/ min = 2400 so 4/2400 = 0.16% chance that this would happen had my trailor come unhooked, the chains fail and it crossed the center lane and hit an on coming car. or a 99.84% chance that nothing will happen except the trailor would be wrecked, and no chance of injury to myslef, my passengers, or my truck which I might add is the least of my concerns, thats what insurance is for.

Even if I quadrupled the number of cars, lets say I pass a funeral procesion (bad example but you get my Idea) and we pass 20 vehicels. Thats still only a 0.64% chance of this happening. I'm not discounting what your saying but just through some averages out for discussion. Roads in ND are not crouded to say the least. I have no way of figuring any averages if the trailor stays attached. if you do though them out for conversation, it could make for some interseting reading.

I won't say I don't agree with some points that have been brought up here but like you I have some experience which I will even tell you has made my opinion biased weather or not its right. I'll also say one more time that all of MY trailors are legal and are hooked up as they are suppose to be even though I may not agree with certain aspects of it. Just so nobody gets the wrong Idea. Its just a personal opinion.

 

Chadsalt,

If you are buying new chain, then get the 5/16 Grade 43/70 and run the 3/8 Grade 8 bolt through it. 1/2" bolt might or might not fit depending on the chain OEM. Ace Hardware usually sells good bolt hardware from Rockwell, so does NAPA. I just consider 1/4" chain too weak, if I have a choice I like overkill.

Depending on the chain OEM, it (5/16) should be good for at least a 3800 WLL. The thing to watch out for is the washer. Get an alloy washer, the cheaper ones can get sucked through the chain (personal experience). If not that, then just get scrap 1/4" steel and make a little plate to go over the chain and under the bolt head.

Probably not needed, but, what I do is if I do not tack weld the bolt after the nut is on, I drill a small hole after the nut and put a small 1/8" or small cotter pin through to prevent the nut from completely backing off. Checking the inside of the frame before -each- tow is not SOP for me.

I do this for the hitch ball too, your mileage may vary. I actually put my ball on with a torque wrench so it probably is not needed. It just makes me feel better.

Since you asked about the bolts, I will assume it is one of the first trailers you have owned, so I will offer this (no insult intended to you) advice.

Why many people lose trailers off the ball is they do not get on their knees and verify that the coupler has actually worked and they blame it on everything else instead.

When hooking up, drop the coupler onto the ball, then get on your hands and knees and watch the coupler slide up to the ball as you close the latch.

I prefer to use a lock on the coupler, one to slow down a thief or to prevent "gags", the second because I have had hitch pins fail and work their way out of various hitches, especially on lighter tow behinds where there is not much weight and a lot of bouncing. I have not had a lock work its way out of a coupling.

5" channel, sounds like a pretty well built trailer, enjoy the towing.

> Dave Sponaugle

Exactly! :-)

 

Am I the only one to check the ball hookup by cranking down on the tongue jack after hooking up? I usually crank the jack until the hitch lifts several inches - makes hooking up the wd chains a snap, and checks the ball coupler to be fully latched. And yes, then the padlock goes thru the release lever.

 

Now that's smart, Alchymist. Good idea.

 

Barebones, i see you're in Burnsville. Used to Live in Austin, and worked for a while in Brownsdale ...... Bet it's cold out there right now?

 

Awesome. I am a professionally trained and certified towing operator. I would rather keep the load then see it go flying. Fact is, if you get caught with substandard equipment, you will get fined and the equipment can get impounded. Beyond that, I have recoverd rolled over 5th wheels, and more than 75% of the time, the hitch breaks leaving the truck on all fours. The trailer goes over (whoopi). I am the type that will phoe the DOT and State Police if I see unsafe equipment. You are responsible for everything attached to your rig, I would rather see the operator of the tow rig dead than the whole family in the minivan also. I have put my rig in the ditch, and I have spared the lives of other motorists throuh my self sacrifice. That is what I was trained for, and that is why I am called a WreckMaster...ID#001426.

 

Alchemyst - Can't complain - its above zero and it'll definitely be a white Christmas. As I saw on another post, "Merry Christmas and a BSEG New Year"!

 

> Am I the only one to check the ball hookup by cranking down on the tongue jack

Not any more, I never thought about doing that, that is a great double check. Thanks for that tip.

 

Just a couple of things to sum up what has already been stated: Proper chain length, and crossing them. If break-away is present, make sure that cable is shorter than chains. Double check all your equipment parts, every part has a life span, replace it when it is worn out. To comment on the breaking *****/shanks, one cause maybe from jerking on it with a chain to tow someone or something out. I am a big fan of straps, just a lot easier on stuff. One thing also, 5th wheels are not mandated to have saftey chains in any state that I know of, Goose necks are in most. In the end, have a great Holiday Season, may all your towing adventures be safe.

Welcome to the forums Chadsalt, I hope through all of this you got it figured out, stick around as there is much knowledge around here to keep one busy till they cant take it anymore.

 

This is the best statement made so far in this thread. It's all about the percentages...you have ZERO chance of controlling an unattached trailer. You may not be able to control your rig/trailer if the trailer gets squirrely, but at least you have some chance of doing so. More speed = less chance.

Folks, Dave and wmjoe1953 certainly seem to have their heads on straight and set a good example for the rest of us to follow when towing.

Jason

 

I appreciate that compliment. As a professional towing operator, I pride myself on my safe towing practices. The biggest responsibility in towing, is making sure that everyone and everything around you are safe. I will not move a truck unless all of the chains and or straps are securely and properly fastened. I will not tow a trailer that has had its safety chains welded instead of bolted. If the chain has been drug on the ground while in use, it gets tossed. If a strap shows signs of wear, it gets tossed. You cannot be too careful when it comes to towing. Nothing is scarier than having a load become unsecured. Ther is no way of controlling it, and it does what it wants. I know this from first hand experience. I have had a strap break, and the load shifted enough to cause the rear tie downs to com loose. the only thing I could do was stop swiftly nosing the truck down an embankment, allowing the vehicle to run up to the headache rack. At least it didn't go flying off the back.

 

Thanks for the compliment.
When you are driving a VW you have to be aware of all the vehicles in the area around you.
The bigger and heavier the vehicle gets, the bigger the circle around you becomes.
When I was driving tractor trailer hauling swinging meat that circle was about a 3/4 mile radius around my truck.
That time I spent hauling swinging meat also taught me some things about driving that lots of people never see. Brakes can get you into more trouble than they can get you out of. The throttle can get you out of more trouble than the brakes can. The throttle can also get you into more trouble than both the brakes and throttle can get you out of.
When you are rolling down the road in an 80,000 pound vehicle that has 46,000 pounds of load swinging on hooks that are hooked to the ceiling of a 13' 6" tall trailer it teaches you how to drive all over again.
Be very aware of your surroundings. Use the controls, throttle, brakes and steering wheel like they have eggs mounted on them for you to touch them with. Smooth, smooth, and smooth, no erratic moves on any control, be smooth with them.

Buy good stuff, need a hitch ball?
Don't go to Wally World for a hitch ball because it is cheaper, go to a trailer supply store and pay for a good ball.
The insert for my tag a long hitch is solid steel, not a tube. It weighs about 30 pounds and is rated for 20,000 pounds. The ball, 25,000 pound gooseneck ball with a 1.25" shank. I laid out about 125 dollars for that insert and ball.
I also have a couple of pintle hook trailers. the pintle hook hitch is rated for 20 tons. It cost about 150 for one hitch.

Don't forget smooth while you read this.

 

This has been a really informative thread, I did some checking and discovered the stinger on my hitch isn't rated for all the weight I have been putting on it lately. I believe the max tongue weight was aroung #600, I know I have had at least triple that amount on there. I just went and ordered a new stinger with a max of #10,500, and it has a turnover ball, so I dont always have to switch them. I don't plan on having that much weight on there, but it's nice to know it's available.

 

Good move Sycostang. You can never be too cautious when it comes to trailer safety. Remember brakes too. And remember to set them properly. When you use trailer brakes, it is often better to have the trailer set to activate more quickly than the tow rig. I say often, not always, because there are times when this is not the case. Always be sure to check your chains. Check where they are attached to the trailer for stress and other forms of potential danger. A trailer on a short leash that has come loose, CAN be controlled if you know what to do. Do not make the chains too long, and don't just wrap them around the hitch. They need to be secured to the vehicle so as not to break or come loose. THEY ARE CALLED SAFETY CHAINS FOR A REASON, and they are required by law on almost every type of trailer. As noted by cangim, 5th wheels seem to be an exception.