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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

fuel filter help

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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 07:15 AM
  #16  
gov2mod's Avatar
gov2mod
Tuned
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From: Delaware
He was probably the same engineer that designed the torx head bolt that goes down in the left center of the upper manifold on the 5.0FI engines. You have to use a torx bit on just the one bolt instead of a socket as on the other five. The problem is that they didn't make the gap thru the upper manifold above it large enough to get a 3/8" socket and extension thru. You have to use a little 1/4" torx bit and an assortment of 1/4" tools to get down there. I've got several taped together so I can reach down there without it coming apart when you use it.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 07:28 AM
  #17  
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EPNCSU2006
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From: Concord, NC
We would probably complain just as much had they put a 9/16" hex head down there
 
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 07:44 AM
  #18  
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jroehl
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Lafayette, IN
That dumb Torx bolt is in the 351w, too--I have trucks with both engines, they both have that %^$&%$@#%$#@ bolt.

Hey, design engineers, make stuff that can be TAKEN APART AND FIXED WITH NORMAL TOOLS!! Not all these darned specialty tools that nobody has...

Jason
 
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 08:22 AM
  #19  
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gov2mod
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From: Delaware
I really don't care whether you need a torx bit or a socket for that particular bolt. The problem is that they didn't leave a large enough gap thru the upper manifold to reach it with normal tools.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 11:44 AM
  #20  
MemOrex's Avatar
MemOrex
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
..sheeez... and I was thinking of removing the upper.

What about trying to remove the FPR...that is annoying too! Upside down allen bolts.

Anywayz, its been freezin out here (wow in TX?), so i havent got a chance to *try* again on the fuel filter.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 12:42 PM
  #21  
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gov2mod
Tuned
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Posts: 476
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From: Delaware
What I use to remove the Torx bolt is a 1/4 hex drive Torx bit. I think it a T40 or T45. This is the type of hex bit that fits in a socket type screwdriver or nutdriver. I use a 1/4" drive size 1/4" socket, a 1/4 drive extension (or two) a 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor, and 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar. I tape the joints together to keep any of it from coming apart while you are down in the gap of the upper manifold. If anything falls off it's tough to get my big arms down under the upper manifold to retrieve it. You can't use any bits that are in their own sockets or any 3/8 drive sockets down there as the crack to work thru the upper manifold is too narrow. It's really not too bad after you do it enough times. I can have all the vacumn lines, hoses, and wires off and the manifold removed in about 20 minutes or so. Of course that doesn't include the other 30 minutes to find all of the tools I need that have gone into hiding after the last time I had it off.
 
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