Hello all, I am new to the forum and really need something answered! Have a 1987 Ford E-150 Van and have been having this problem for the past month and a half and it is blowing my mind. Van starts then dies right away, then when started, have to keep foot on the gas pedal to keep it alive. Sometimes it runs really good and other times runs really rough. have replaced the fuel pump, filter, harmonic balancer, cleaned EGR valve, replaced cap and rotor, when driving, the van feels like it is surging and stuttering, the tranny keeps banging, have no vacuum leaks, and I lose idle and it surges and sputter at a stop light, at low speed it dies, recently when it runs good it will run fine but then when it acts up, it runs like the problems listed above. I don't know if the tranny is electronically controlled, I am at my wits end on this. Could this be the ignition control module causing me all this grief and if so where is it located in the van. The idle speed control valve was also taken out and cleaned and the throttle body was also cleaned. Also, the map sensor was also changed out.PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

 

Taking a random shot, saw your post in general discussion. On our Rangers we have an IAC, aka the Idle Air Control valve. It can go out and allow the vehicle to die at idle when the throttle is completely closed and the IAC is the only thing allowing air into the engine. If you have an IAC, that would be my immediate suspect.

 

Well, if were my 81 van (I6/300), it would be the carb needing adjustment...it does not have EFI and is stock.

My husband's 83 van (302) Did act alot like that and he thought it was the carb needing adjustment or the ignition module....found out it was the fuel pump going out instead. He replaced it a year ago and it never occurred to him this would happen.

If it was my son's 79 cordoba, it would be adjusting the cold advance jets on the carb. It used to have the Lean Burn System (early computer) that was taken out and replaced with standard points/distributor. But the previous owner had similar problems like yours but did not know about adjusting the jets. The carb has a sensor wire and without that computer telling it what to do, it would act alot like yours. Once the jets were adjusted, no more problems.

Since you have done just about everything else to it....it is my son's Cordoba that comes to mind.

Dont know if this helps but it's a thought.

 

I had the same problem.I replaced the EGR valve and sensor,TPS and fuel regulator.After that it ran great untill this year when the Fuel pump relay went bad ,and the alternator.

 

I replaced the IAC valve in my '98 Ford Club Wagon this year (V8-5.4L; 80K miles). That solved the problem I was having with the engine dying at idle. I don't think these valves are repairable; you should replace yours if it has over 60K miles on it, as they are relatively inexpensive. I paid about $50 at Pep Boys.

It sounds to me like you have some sort of vacuum irregularity or leak. Get a vacuum gauge and use it in the right places.

Previously, I had to replace my DPFE sensor, to remedy an engine-sputtering problem. That was a spooky problem to trouble-shoot, and after 9 months, I am experiencing it again, regrettably. I got mine at Autozone for about $60.

You could have a blown gasket, or broken hose, somewhere in your vacuum circuit. Also, your PCV valve could produce vacuum problems. It MUST be replaced periodically.

Ditch the notion that you can "clean" such devices to repair them. They must be replaced.

Also, a CDROM "shop manual" detailing your car's drive train, with locations of devices, would help you.

 

what is the dpfe sensor?this has happened about a month ago and the mechanic changed out the fuel filter and it ran fine for about a week?he let me know that varnish was comming in from the gas tanks to clog up the fuel filter?if i do have bad gas or varnish in my tank would it cause symptoms noted above?i have 2 tanks and the front 1 is filled with gas(need to have it drained out) i used the back tank only and was curious if my filter is clogged up again? my bad for not rotating between gas tanks so as to not have this varnish gum up my fuel filter? what do you members think? 1st time fuel filter was changed ran good for about a week no studder or low idle,can a filter become clogged that fast in a van>?should i change it out again?

 

when it runs good it runs good for about 4 to 6 miles after that it may start to act up loosing its idle and studdring like tranny wants to shift on its own,feels like a miss when it acts up,idels ok the at a certain point it drops idle and runs ragged.????????????????

 

...and I can't do your research, or homework, for you. You need to divide and conquer, to troubleshoot, unless you are highly experienced. Yet experience can be deceptive, because cars with IACs and DPFE sensors defy the common logic that we developed, in troubleshooting cars that were built in the 50's, 60s, 70s, and even 80s.

Firstly, you need to decide to focus your investigation against ignition or fuel systems. Fuel systems can be further divided into actual fuel delivery, as opposed to air, and then vacuum circuits. Today's cars are extremely complicated, compared to older cars, because of all the computerization and instruments involved in controlling the engine.

I'm not as up on this as I was last April, when I changed out my DPFE sensor. You should Google this subject to learn more. Or... http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/egrsensors.htm

Note this sensor is critical to the proper modulation of your Exhaust Gas Recirculation, by means of Differential Pressure Feedback. I experienced flatspot, chugging, and otherwise sputtering acceleration, consistent with excessive waste gas being injected into the combustion process at low engine speeds. My use of a vacuum gauge, "Y'd" into the control port of the DPFE sensor, led me to discover this fault. The DPFE was not running in proper linear response to its control signal, which was a VACUUM level, not a voltage. (Vacuum lines are considered circuits, just like electrical lines.)

A wise neighbor, and fellow engineer, erroneously suspected my fuel delivery, specifically the fuel pump, out of prejudice. I countered his suspicion by insisting that my engine was running fine at high RPMs, exactly when it should run most poorly, if insufficient fuel were delivered to combustion, by some obstruction to the fuel lines.

Your symptom are all over the range of engine operation, which causes me to suspect that your gasoline might even be polluted with water, etc. It seems there is no "rhythm" to your miss, clearing suspicion of a particular cylinder, etc.

 

You should get a code reader, and list the codes you are getting.

They have new digital code readers for less than $50. Some available at Walmart

 

The error code I received, pertinent to my DPFE malfunction, was exactly the opposite of what was happening. Incredulous as I was, I finally accepted the fallability of the error code system.

Take it all with a grain of salt. Though I agree that a code reader is a good idea, astute deduction is superior to blind faith in error codes.

 

coolmom,

Varnish usually occurs when gas is stored for an extended period of time and not used. Does this van sit unused for long periods of time? Are you in the habit of just using one of the tanks of gas before refilling and not using the other? Any other reason for old gas in the tanks that I didn't mention? What did the inside of the tank look like when the fuel pump was replaced? Was all of the work that you listed done in pursuit of this problem or was any of it done prior to the onset of the problem?

I would start with the basics. Take a look at a couple of your spark plugs and check you fuel pressure with a test gauge. You may also want to change the fuel filter again and cut the old one open and see what's inside. If it is any sort of debris from the fuel tanks, you will find it there.

There are a number of "next level" things that could cause your problem, but you need to establish the basics first before chasing more expensive parts or labor charges if you are paying for this work to be done.

Let us know what you find,

Gene

 

i have my mechanic comming over either wednesday or thursday with a code reader to see whats going on with this van?all parts replaced were after the van started acting up.driving it 1 day and heater hose let go,had to change out all cooloant hoses.after hoses were changed van ran funny like staving for fuel> .1st fuel filter was replaced at that time.since then 2 weeks have gone by with me living with it stumbeling ,missing and dying at low speed and at stop lights?i have to fight the gaS pedal to keep it alive,then put it in nuetral ,even in nuetral the van will idle with foot on gas and after like 20 seconds it will miss and drop idle.hopefully mechanic will be able to pinpoint this prob or probs as this 1 is 1 tricky 1 to get running right again?this forum is a big help ..maybe i will have better news on wednesday or thursday,if after my mechanic checks it out and lets me know i will let you all know.im not into electronic controlled engine componets im old school with a 1965 comet and a 1977 corvette we are trying to restore.i like the older carb cars way better.have a great day all and thanks for al your help so far.if you have any other ideas just post them here ,i may have to be prepared to drain my tanks out and need to know the correct process to do this and to have them cleaned out if they can be cleaned out.p.s. by the way the fuel pump i replaced was not in the tank but on the rail of this van.my gas gauge is not working also it has been this way since i have owned the van about 1 1/2 years.

 

by the way i forgot to mention that i have always mainly used the rear tank in this van and have left the front 1 filled with gas,it was a bad habit to do but i have learned my lesson.mechanic that did fuel filter told me that front tank is full and may have varnish in it,i need to have it drained out ,probally both of them are this way.i left the front tank always filled as we live here in florida and always wanted to have a tank of gas to rely on in case i had to run from hurricaines.im tired of this but will prevail in the long run.so much has happened to this van in a short period of time ..i guess the saying is true when it rains it pours.open to all ideas ...........

 

http://www.angelfire.com/co4/ourcovette/index.html
our web page

 

How many miles on the engine? If the timing chain is severely worn it will throw the ignition/valve timing out of whack. I had a Dodge van with a 318 that this happened to and I thought it was posessed until I figured it out. Ford vans of this vintage have a similar timing chain/plastic gear set-up. To check; with a warm engine and distributor cap removed, have someone turn crankshaft with a socket/breaker bar first one way til rotor turns, then turn crank the other way. If the rotor turns the other way before the crank turns 10-15 degrees or less, your timing chain is good. If not, then it is worn. I wouldn't doubt that there are engines that run fine with some play but as the chain gets worn, I believe it wears out quicker. Good luck., John