coolmom,

Since the problem started with the coolant leak I would suspect a relationship with it.
How long did the engine run with it leaking? Did it run out of coolant before it was repaired?

Even more likely is water in an electrical device. It sounds a lot like moister in the distributor. That could account for it starting normally and then developing the problem as it gets warmer. The warmth of the engine can cause water vapor to develop in the enclosed distributor and begin to short it out. The mechanic will know how to check for that. Wiping it out with a rag and some WD40 should clear it up if that is the problem.

You ask about the ignition module earlier. On your year model I believe it is still located on the back of the distributor. It's about the size and shape of a pack of chewing gum with a electrical connector on one end. On later models it is moved to the drivers side inner fender well behind the battery. They moved them in response to problems with them caused by overheating. From what you described, I don't think that is your problem although it's connection could have been affected by the water as well. Long shot though because it should be a water tight connection.

Other items unrelated to the water leak that your mechanic should test if the problem persist are fuel pressure, (if the fuel pressure is out of spec, get back to us because there could be several things causing that) IAC (Idle Air Control), throttle position sensor and possibly the O2 sensor. He may find a code recorded for the last three.

Gene

 

I have an 87 E150 302 and have plenty of experience with it!
The tranny is not electrically controlled.
The engine codes are often useless.
The vac system is very prone to leaks and the reservoir behind the main battery will be corroded by now. The vac lines over the passenger side exhaust manifold will be cracked up by now and need of replacement.
Timing chain is VERY VERY likely for what you describe. The slack can be checked by rocking the crankshaft through the harmonic balancer bolt and see if the distributor rotor tracks it without lagging.
Fuel pressure reg- pull the vac line off it. If fuel leaks out of the line, the diaphragm is leaking and it needs to be replaced.
O2 sensor is possible. TPS is possible.
The dual tank switch valve on the E150 is pretty failure-prone, but it's not that likely to produce the symptoms you describe.
There are 3 fuel pumps, one low pressure delivery pump in each tank and one high pressure pump. The tank pumps are difficult to replace. But it really doesn't matter because the high pressure pump can draw fuel from the tank without the tank pump operating. I accidentally ran for years with that the tank pump disconnected and it ran ok.

 

timing chain was replaced about a year ago.

 

when hose leaked it came from small hose at heater control valve ,at the time van was shut down quickly as to not lose all antifreeze and coolant.this is located near the batery on the passenger side of van.all hoses were replaced and refilled with collant.about 1 day after repair van started acting up.as i start the van today i hear a cllicking noise by the passenger cartpment area near the heater fan area??? it has just started making this clicking noise in this area.im not sure but when coolant leaked that early morning(i deliver bread for local bakery)it may have shorted electrical items by the battery area???? we will keep you posted on this .have a great day all and thanks for all the input!

 

any other ideas ???

 

I would go ahead and replace the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve.

 

coolmom,
Did you get to the basics yet? Do you have normal, stable fuel pressure? What do the plug readings look like?

As you can tell from the responses, there are a number of things that can cause your problem. We can keep guessing but that can be an expensive route to take.

Gene

 

Ok, Here's what we know:

1. A lot of parts have been thrown at this van.
2. This is a simple EEC-IV system. The codes could be read by jumpering at the test port and flashing the check engine light inside. Even a flashing light/beeping code reader should be $25 or less and come with a code book.
3. The problems started with the engine compartment becoming flooded with coolant.
4. The engine is bucking.
5. The engine sometimes runs fine.
6. The cap and rotor have been replaced. We don't know for sure if that was done before or after the coolant episode.
7. An IAC valve problem would not cause the engine bucking problems while driving. The problem is most likely NOT the IAC. The fact that the van surges at a stoplight means that the IAC is trying to compensate for the drop of RPM, most likely due to a misfire.
8. This van doesn't have a DPFE.
9. EGR problems can cause bucking. But this one's been cleaned, and the problems are across the RPM band. While you cannot rule out the EGR, most likely the problem is something else.
10. A mechanic replaced a lot of hoses in a lot of tight spaces.
11. This van is LOADED with vacuum hoses, some of which are pretty much buried.

Anyone here ever soak an engine with water or coolant? A LOT of the time, you develop electrical problems. MOST of the time it's ignition problems. Here's what happens. Water shorts some or all of this: plug wires, cap, rotor, or coil. From this short, arcing develops. Arcing causes carbon tracking. That carbon path will allow arcing to continue, even after the stuff dries. The arcing doesn't always occur constantly, and will occur more or less due to changes in resistance.

If only part of the parts are replaced, a carbon path will often redevelop. For example. You replace the distributor cap, but reuse the same plug wires. There was a carbon path on the distributor, for sure, but there's also one on the plug wires. Your replacement cap will soon develop another carbon path because the carbon path on the wires allows the arcing to continue.

While I'm loathe to throw parts at this problem, I'd almost GUARANTEE that a complete swap of cap, rotor, plugs and wires will fix this problem. Replacing the plugs will be necessary because if one hasn't been firing consitently, it will be fuel fouled.

There is also a small chance that broken/disconnected vacuum hoses are the culprit here since the mechanic was working around this cramped engine compartment. It would probably be financially prudent to trace EVERY vacuum hose and check for leaks both with them and with the intake before you spend money on parts. Even so, I'm so confident that the problem is ignition that I'd probably just do that first.

What do you guys think?

 

Pretty good summation counselor.

It wouldn?t hurt anything at all to do the basic tune up as you suggest just to establish a base line if nothing else. She may cure her problem at the same time. It would give an opportunity to get some information from the plugs and rule out those parts if the problem persist.

The vacuum hoses on the back passenger's side of the engine are particularly subject to abrasion from rubbing on the dog house. While it is off for the ignition work would be an excellent opportunity to check them carefully as well as check the fuel pressure regulator and get a fuel pressure reading.

Coolmom, keep the plugs in the order that they came out if you decide to go ahead and replace them. A piece of cardboard with 8 holes punched in it and numbered works well for this. I would only use OEM spec Motorcraft plugs. The other items could come from Standard or NAPA but you can find Motorcraft for about the same money if you shop around.

Gene

 

I've also seen the hoses to which you're refering get hardened and brittle from heat. That hard emissions tubing is subjected to a lot of heat from the exhaust manifold and the EGR tube. Making it even worse is that a lot of it is inside a loom where you can't see it.

 

thanks guys , i will change out the plugs and see the condition of them as they come out.i will also check the vacuem hoses in the rear of the engine carefully.i do not get a emmissions light on when this occurs,since it started running like crap,it starts fine then runs for a while ok then when a little warmer engine it bucks,clunks,studders,at mostly low speeds,its making me crazy! i have heard of arcing before but never a carbon path? what is that and what does this carbon path do? how to i get rid of a carbon path?would spark plug wires,going to cap cause any of the sensors in this area to act up with this carbon path or arcing of power? if so this may be my prob with it that i have to look at more closly.as you guys know the plugs from the passenger side of the van have little or no room to lay the wires in there with all the components in the way.i may have a plug wire crossing over a sensor wire?????( arching or carbon path)?????i appreciate all the help and feedback guys,your all a big help.i will probaly do the plugs and tune up this upcomming week so bear with me.

 

have you replaced the fuel pressure regulator?

 

I don't think I made myself clear. You need to replace the plugs, plug wires and the distributor cap again. If you have a carbon path built up, the only way to get rid of the problem is to replace it all together.

Once my dad had a bad coil wire. It had formed a carbon path on the wire and the coil. He replaced the wire, and it still arced. He then replaced the coil, and it still arced. So he replaced the wire again, and it still arced. Finally someone explained that he had to replace them both at the same time to get rid of the carbon path. So he bought yet another coil and coil wire, and replaced them at the same time. Guess what? No more arcing.

A carbon path builds up along the path of the arcing. If you only replace one of the components, you're ignoring half of the carbon path. That half will allow the arcing to continue and will cause another carbon path to build up on the new component.

 

i havent replaced the fuel pressure regulator? van starts up all the time when it stalls,just replaced fuel pump on rail and filter.where is regulator located on this van?engine is getting gas just not staying started in idle or low speeds and has some kinda miss when driving like tranny is bucking or stummping along,more at lower speeds then higher speeds.on occasion it just keeps stupping bucking around 40 mph thump thump thump,my head is hurting from this lol,sometimes i hear something in rear of van clunk like u joints or something .like i said some times it runs perfect and for a little while its ok,then when i stop and restart van it begings to act up a little bit only to become worse as i drive along.1 thump turns into a horror show to get to my next destionation,which is only 10 miles from my first stop.i fight the van and traffic at that time of the morning,thank god there are only a few cars on the roads @ that early morning time.you guys ever get tired of fixing cars just to park them away and say forget this **** i need a cold beer? have a great nite all my van is giving me a hell time of a fight sometimes id just like to leave it on the side of the road where it wants to die on me.(im kinda waiting for this to happen to it so i can finally walk the hell away from it!!!! (humor is good and needed at this time!)

 

colony do i replace the coil also?