Change out the EGR valve and your problem will be solved.

 

how confident are you that this will correct this issue? all help appreciated kindly!

 

i will try that next just about everything else was changed in it?having a hard time getting mechanic to come and read the codes for me ,auto zone dosent know how to do it (they say there people are not qualified for something this old) and they tried to get a code before with no luck and no reading????1 more part to buy and install in this van???im so frustrated at this van ,it has already set me back about 400 to 500 in new parts,imagine if a mechanic got there hands on it in a shop? (scary) oh well i will try this egr valve soon and keep every 1 posted!

 

Coolmom, go <a href="http://www.fordfuelinjection.com" target="new">Here</a> it will tell you how to pull codes.

 

make a list of what you have replaced and post it.

 

CoolMom,

Does your van have a Catatylic Converter? If so did you check it? See my earlier post.

 

i have replaced :spark plugs ,spark plug wires,dist cap, rotor,coil, map sensor,vacuum lines at can near batery,(2 of them) fuel pump on rail,fuel filter,(mechanic said that old filter had some varnish in it,he tipped it for me and it was to come out clean and it kinda looked like dirty gas ,and smelled really bad).harmonic balencer,serpentine belt.

 

You still need to check your fuel pressure. Your mechanic had found varnish in the tank before and it hasn't been cleaned out. I would hook up a test gauge and do a static test and if it appears normal, drive it untill it begins to malfuntion and see what the gauge is doing.

The previous test of the regulator just tells you that the diaphram in it is ok. It, or any other part of the fuel system could still have intermitant blockages caused by the debris in the tank. You can also pull the filter that he put on back off and put your fingers over both the inlet and the out let sides of it, shake it up a little and pour the remaining gas that is in it out of the inlet side into a clear glass and have a look at it. This should flush a little bit of the debris that is in the filter (if there is any) out so you can see what the condition of the tanks might be.

You not only need adaquit pressure but also adaquit volume of fuel delivery for the engine to run right. Your test gauge will have a drain valve on it with a hose attached to it that you can place in a bottle. With the gauge attached to the fuelrail and the engine running, depreess the gauges drain valve for a timed period and calculate from that what the flow rate is compaired to spec for your van.

You should pull a plug after your next drive and see how they are reading now. You know they were new over the weekend so see if they indicate a rich or lean condition etc now. That was one of the main reasons for changing them.

I like to do the things that don't cost anything to establish my baseline for further repair before throwing parts at it. Doesn't matter what kind of engine it is, it will still need air, fuel and ignition to run.

Gene

 

ok this is really freaky,i used van yesterday to go get mt product ,started fine and ran perfect pick up is only 5 miles away ran perfect like it should no bucking,stumping , misses,! (perfect idle also @ lights) .i park van to load up my delivery product and it wont stay ideling now for only a 5 mile trip, i start it up it coughs a lilo bit ,and then with foot on gas it will go ,i have to hold gas to keep it alive,it will also shut down as i drive it on the way home the same 5 mile trip to get there? is the weight im putting in there a concern??i loaded 30 bread trays and am curious if this van acts diffrent with weight in it?i will check /replace all that is noted above just havent had time to get to it.?neighbor update,, he has canceled his complaint against my dogs as he found out the neighboorhood rallied for me with statements on his stray cats,i guess its good to work for a bakery and take care of the neighboorhood with bread and cakes any ways all info is appreciated in this matter.still can not get a hold of mechanic to read codes,he was due here last week,runs perfect @ times and then runs like ****! back to the drawing board with this van that has a mind of it own>!

 

It's not the bread. See if what you said above is repeatable, that is, if it runs well during warm up but then begins to malfunction after warm up. The PCM runs on a different program (open loop) during warm up and then begins to take input from sensors etc after warm up in the closed loop mode.

What you have said probably eliminates the TPS as a cause but it could still be the contaminated fuel, EGR, or something that we haven't discussed yet.

You still need to scan it and do the other test that have been recomended. I would recommend a full scan, not just looking for stored codes. There are several test included in the full scan that detect some problems while the engine is running that you may not find by just checking stored codes. There is a wiggle test that checks for wiring problems, a BOBO test that checks the function of the brake on / off switch, a test of the sensor in your power steering system that raises the idle when you are turning the steering wheel and a test of the throttle function that test the TPS.

You can do this your self and it won't hurt anything. If you don't have a shop manual go to AutoZone or a book store and pick up a Haynes manual. It will tell you everything you need to know about performing these test. You don't have to have a code reader or a scan tool but it is a little easier to do with one. A scan tool will coach you along, prompting you to do the next step and give a written explanation of the meaning of any codes it detects. A scan tool will just show numbers which you can look up on a code list (in the Haynes manual) and with no tool you just count the flashes of the check engine light to determine what codes may be present.

You might want to see if your brake lights are all working as this can effect idle.

Gene

 

it seems to start and run ok during 1st start up and warm up it is only after it is geting warm that it will start acting up,also i noted that last start up i had a good idle and just went to get my product,temp gauge came up to normal operation kinda fast for me ,in less then 3 miles gauge was reading it was up to normal operating temp,with cooloer weather in florida latly and me just leaving not warming van up is this ok? also when warmed up it will start to try to find a correct idle as latley it does get a normail idle and other times it finds a high idle,also it is still thumping along @times,also i ran it and gave it alot of gas and she seems to have the power and it feels like something is holding her back from really going?as usal back to the drawing board with this 1 i may take egr valve out clean it soon and see what it does?if it runs ok for a lil while i may just do as bronco man said in earlier post and replace egr valve? on the egr valve are they easy to install? any special tools or lube spray recommended? have a great day>

 

at times i can feel the gas pedal move and come up on my foot on its own as when i brake and then go back to gas pedal i feel it move up to my foot? any ideas why it does this?

 

hi everybody,i used the van yesterday and it seemed to run ok,but it now has a very high idle when i put it in park ,also when i drive it and give it gas it will be going about 40 mph and i can take my foot of the gas pedal and it will keep the same speed as when i had my foot on the gas pedal, it will also do this @ 35 mph and 25 mph and so on,i guess it is better then stalling,also when i come to a red light the high idle it now has ,i have to hold the brake from letting it move foward,this van has its on mind any ways with all the parts i had thrown into this van what would cause this from happening ,i checked the cruise control to make sure it was not engaged and it wasent??last tuesday i ran the van very hard to try to knock out any deposits in the way of the fuel or engine.the stumbling and missing of the engine has slowed down a lot ,it dosent do it very oftern?? am i close >(praying that i am) all help in this matter is appreciated kindly.have a great day

 

The throtle position sensor (TPS) is the link between your foot and the engine's computer (PCM) Did you ever test it? It may set a code and may not. The test is outlined in your Hayne's manual.

Gene

 

hi gene and thanks for your input.i have not tested the codes as of yet we are still waiting for mechanic to come by and do that.about a month ago i sprayed w-d 40 near the gas pedal to loosen up the feel of it.it was kinda hard to me and to keep things moving freely....(i hope i didnt mess up things down there) any ways where is the throttle position sensor located ??is it on the gas pedal itself? all explanations would be appreciated.would the tps make van run at high idle if defective?how would i change it out if i need to? all info appreciated.seems to run a lot better,i may have gotten some debris out last tuesday morning when i ran it very hard!