Ranger shift knob removal
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 649
Likes: 1
From: north carolina
on all the bIIs i have ownd and the ranger i have now (mine is a 86) the lever it self is splined and the **** is too. and the **** is glued (or some kind of epxy) to the lever it self and is a pain to get off.
Last edited by Ken00; Dec 3, 2005 at 06:29 PM.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 298
Likes: 3
I have owned a dozen 86-93 B series (real Mazdas) and they all are threaded.
I hear that the Rangers are splined but not to sure the best way (tool) to get it off.
I have had a 98 for a while but never tried, now I bought another 98 for my wife and it has an aftermarket **** that has came apart so I need to get it off (and probably switch with mine).
I hear that the Rangers are splined but not to sure the best way (tool) to get it off.
I have had a 98 for a while but never tried, now I bought another 98 for my wife and it has an aftermarket **** that has came apart so I need to get it off (and probably switch with mine).
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
My '94 popped off one day in the Texas heat. It was 104* outside and I went from first into second and it kept going lol.
So yeah, I agree, heat it up (hair dryer will work) and it just pops straight up and off. It is NOT threaded.
So yeah, I agree, heat it up (hair dryer will work) and it just pops straight up and off. It is NOT threaded.
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Tuned
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Careful though, I think the stuff might run down the shifter if you heat it too much. It really doesn't take a lot of force to remove it.
On the other hand, I replaced it with a vinyl **** that took a five pound sledge to get on the shifter, not even kidding. But it won't move any time soon. And it'll take a grinding wheel on a Dremel to get it off.
On the other hand, I replaced it with a vinyl **** that took a five pound sledge to get on the shifter, not even kidding. But it won't move any time soon. And it'll take a grinding wheel on a Dremel to get it off.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
From: Blytheville, AR
Mine comes off when it feels like it. The plastic inside it is busted. I put a business card around my spline. It makes it tight enough to where you have to pull on it pretty hard to get it to slide off now. 
Heat should work on getting your shift **** off.
Heat should work on getting your shift **** off.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
lol business cards work great.
So what are you gonna put on there budman? I used: large chrome shift **** with blue lights, microchip vibrated and was annoying as everything. Traded that in for a skull, which was just great, except I superglued the set screw it, then one day it popped off, and I couldn't get them back out. Then got a very short metallic shift ****, liked it quite a bit, but it rattled as well as it had two metallic shafts inside of it (GRR I hate rattling, and my door lock is doing it now!), finally pulled that off and bought a Chevy old-style OEM shift ****, took a five pound sledge to make it fit, but it is definetly not rattling or falling off!
So what are you gonna put on there budman? I used: large chrome shift **** with blue lights, microchip vibrated and was annoying as everything. Traded that in for a skull, which was just great, except I superglued the set screw it, then one day it popped off, and I couldn't get them back out. Then got a very short metallic shift ****, liked it quite a bit, but it rattled as well as it had two metallic shafts inside of it (GRR I hate rattling, and my door lock is doing it now!), finally pulled that off and bought a Chevy old-style OEM shift ****, took a five pound sledge to make it fit, but it is definetly not rattling or falling off!
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
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My original **** came off my 95 Ranger when I shifted into 2nd - my hand and the **** kept going to the seat. Surprise! A close inspection showed that the plastic on the inside of the **** had cracked apart - enlarging the inside dimension of the ****. I purchased a nice new one from Ford. It did not screw on but was, instead, a friction fit. I positioned it carefully to match the shift pattern on the **** with the actual direction of throw. Then I whacked it on tight with a rubber mallot. Its never coming off. It is interesting how such a small thing gives the truck a nice "new" tactile feel.
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