Miecha -- My 2003 F250 SD SC SWB XLT V10 Auto LS3.73s is still in the shop. It has to do with warranty work and who is going to pay. I've only owned the truck for 3 weeks now.

But...Actually both to your first question. The vacuum actuator is bad and the hubs are striped. I am going to go with the "Auto" hubs as replacements. The reason is that I am going from a 1976 F150 4x4 to my new 2003 SD 4x4 and want that feature. I figure as the new owner, they will last me a good long time. My SD is only going to be used on a very limited basis.

If I did not care about the "Auto" function...I would certainly go with the Warn hubs. I had those on my 1976 and they are tough!

Good luck...

biz

 

Chris:
On my 2000 Excursion PSD, overenthusiastic woods-crashing broke the vacuum line to a hub (among other things - one needs a skid plate on the radiator & hoses). Vacuum pump ran nonstop and burned out. The telltale for me was that the A/C would only blow on defrost, which is apparently the only thing that works when there's not enough vacuum to move various doors under the dash. The hub lock o-rings squeezed out when I forced the hubs to the lock position, which also broke the vacuum seal, and would have the same result. Ford replaced hub locks, vacuum line & vacuum pump (extended warranty paid for itself). Only ended up $270 out of pocket on a $1200 bill.

Billy

 

Biz4two: Thanks for the info - you have had a rough time. Maybe I should feel lucky as my 350 is a '99 with 113k miles and just starting to have problems (starter and hubs and such). Even so, it sounds like your dealer price of 1700 may be a better deal than my dealer as it included the ball joints (my 1433 was just for the hubs and related parts).

On the water crossing issue, I think I'm screwed. I just moved one of my warehouses to a location that requires crossing roads that flood nearly every rainfall (no storm drain system in that area). The warehouse price was great for 20k sqft, but maybe not if I'm having to repack the bearings/hubs and change axle fluids every time it rains. I'm not kidding either, even a moderate rainfall (not noticeable otherwise in my area) will cause the roads that access my new building to flood to a depth of about 18-30". It never seems to get higher than that (spreads out far enough I guess), and never reaches the warehouse which is on higher ground, but I've had to go through water that was up to my headlights a few times just to get out of the area and make it home. Although I'm new to this area, everyone else tells me this is normal (I freaked the first time I saw the flooding) and everyone else either waits it out (for small car people) but most of the folks in the area drive trucks (many older trucks) and just drive through the stuff.

IN FACT, as I type this, I realize I HAVE had the 4x4 system ingaged since last winter (despite my earlier post). I clearly remember moving the dash ESOF switch to 4hi on several occassions when crossing the deep water (thinking this might help with forward movement). Now I wonder if this made things even worse. Geeez, I may be in big trouble with this water crossing thing.

Any ideas?

 

Biz4two:
I would also like the auto feature (though others on the forum have assured me I can just leave the warn hubs in the locked position and get nearly the same control via the dash switch). However, the bigger thing is the cost of the OEM parts and labor (even the parts if I attempt the labor myself). And if I go with the Warn Hubs, I can skip alot of the labor re the o-ring, seals, and vac lines.

I've been considering trading in this truck on either a new PSD or an Excursion, and the service guys know this (they've been good to me for several years). They actually recommended I lose the truck a bit earlier than planned rather than dump the $1,500 into it and then sell it in the spring. But I at least know this truck - if I go with an 03 as I was thinking (I like the 7.3) I could end up with the problems you are having.

 

I wouldn't blame the '03 year on my problems. Actually the original owner must not have done much maintenance...besides the oil changes. That is the key. Plus, on a 2 year old truck going on 3...it already had 88470 high miles. So this truck was "Used". I did pick it up on a "steal" of a deal...and even if I poor another $5000 into it...I am still on the positive side.

The dealership service department told me that the ball joints usually only last 90,000 miles on these SD’s. I believe that is because they cannot be greased. The aftermarket (MOOG) has the grease fittings. They are said to last much longer.

My issue...is that the extended warranty does what I purchased it to do. Protect my SD. If not...then I will cancel them like a bad habit...and set off on a campaign of negative publicity. Let's see how it goes...

biz

 

I wouldn't blame the '03 year on my problems. Actually the original owner must not have done much maintenance...besides the oil changes. That is the key. Plus, on a 2 year old truck going on 3...it already had 88470 high miles. So this truck was "Used". I did pick it up on a "steal" of a deal...and even if I pour another $5000 into it...I am still on the positive side.

The dealership service department told me that the ball joints usually only last 90,000 miles on these SD’s. I believe that is because they cannot be greased. The aftermarket (MOOG) has the grease fittings. They are said to last much longer.

My issue...is that the extended warranty does what I purchased it to do. Protect my SD. If not...then I will cancel them like a bad habit...and set off on a campaign of negative publicity. Let's see how it goes...

biz

 

I haven't replaced the ball joints on my truck (still have the originals). It sounds like maybe I should look at this as part of the work being done on the hubs, axle shaft end, and such. Will I need to have an alignment done after all this? I just did that last month!

 

Anytime a ball joint is replaced a alignment is needed.
Rich

 

update - A quick reply - More later -

But yes the truck was running when I was checking for vacuume - second person running the switch - I will play with the AC today and see if it works on defrost only like some one suggested - Will advise

Chris

 

Update –

A/C works fine in all positions – Any other ideas on rule in / rule out items?

Maybe it just doesn’t like the cold…

Last night I get it and the reverse alarm is stuck on a solid tone anytime I go to reverse – get out make sure no ones done the dirty black tape on the sensor trick, all clear there – Drive around for 5-10 minutes then all is well – shut down come back 30 minutes later same story – run for 10 minutes and all is fine – Today the reverse sensor works fine…

Thanks

Chris

 

you chkd fuse 27,45,33,31,34 these all go to the 4x4 module except 27
it goes to the esof solenoid(controls vacum).
If you sure there is no vacuum,follow vac lines back to the solenoid.
See if it clicks .
Reverse alarm can be ice ,dirt in the lens area of the sensor in the back bumper.
Rich

 

Thanks Rich -

I will look at the fuses - I will try to get it inside tonight or in the AM

If it was Halloween I would say it was haunted – took a ride tonight and my daughter put the front passenger window down and it would not go back up with her door control – only from the drivers side- Goes down fine just not up, all other windows are fine – I would guess loose wire or bad switch- all at once things start to go I guess.

Thanks again I will report back on the fuse issue.

Chris