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I bought a '78 F-250 351m not too long ago. I knew the guy and he had that truck timed to run on the cheapest gas. But that's OK, I'd change the timing. But I can't get the distributer to move!
The coller is loose but the alluminum dist. is seesed up in the manifold and won't move. Ive tried alot, but I don't want to break the alluminum. Can I heat it? should I take off the ac compressor and put a pipe wrench on it?
ANY one else had this problem?!
Advice will be greatly appreciated!
-Dan
I've had this same problem several times.The best way I know how to loosen it is to spray the base with alot of wd-40,liquid wrench,etc.,let it soak in several hours and "GENTLY" tap back and forth.It may take several times but it's alot better than breaking the housing off.Try to be patient,and good luck.
Good ol Fords when timed right will run forever in that position.I never owned one yet that wasn't stuck.From FE to Windsor.
I use PB Blaster and a pry bar,have a buddy turn the engine a few times for the sake of it.Most of the prob is Ford built the dist to good.While Chevys have a long skinny housing,Ford has a beefy one that sits down in the block with little clearence.
I'm letting it soak in WD-40. I'm gonna try it in a couple hours-I'll tell you how it goes. I probably would have left the timing, but I changed the timing on a Jeep I bought from the same guy and dang near doubled the horsepower.:-X23 He likes things to run cheap.
Ahhhhh.. -still stuck. Won't budge
I let it sit for 4 hours in a puddle of WD-40.
Any other ideas? If not, I'll let it soak overnight. I hate those things that are so simple, yet so hard.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Feb-02 AT 08:50 PM (EST)]Dan, The last Guy to post this same question had to wait something like 5 days of soaking before it came loose.
Just don't forget to put vaseline or anti-seize compund on it when you re-install it.
Dennis
Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving My Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"
Dan, I read in another post that you could mix Marvel Mystery Oil with brake fluid, 50-50, to help break it loose. This mixture is supposedly the best for attacking the galvanic corrosion between the aluminum distributor and the iron block.