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I don't know of anyone else that has tried......if you want to be the first....let us know what and how you do it. Take photos and post....thanks!
I wouldn't, tapping into the side of a cylinder defeats the strenth of a cylinder and with the **** metal that these are made out of you're looking at crack city. Plastic cap is easily replaced if you muck it up where as the oil filter assy is a royal pain.
You will also need a short piece of pipe if you do the top of the filter cap. And then wrap tthat with insulation to get readings in the winter. The pipe will act as a radiator and cool the oil. See my gallery for photo of the pipe.
I would think it would be darn near impossible to tap into the side of the canister because it is very thin and it is a curved surface. This combination would make it impossible to have good clean threads and even if you did get it threaded I am doubtful you would be able to get to seal.
I have never used an oil bypass filter. I don't believe in them. I choose to change my filter every 5,000 miles and my oil and filter every 10,000 miles. But that's just me!
I installed an AMSOIL bypass filter on a friend's 4.3L V-6 GM diesel, who I told he did not need the filter. I removed the oil pressure sending unit. Purchased a short piece of pipe and a female T. Installed the pipe, T and sending unit then ran a line from the T to the bypass filter inlet. Took the filter outlet and ran it to the valve cover.
Look at page 24, center picture. I would think that you could run the filter input from the "oil pressure test port" and put the filter outlet wherever you want (oil filler tube is easy to do).
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