Thanks for the information....any way anybody has pictures of how to? You don't think bumpinh up the power has an negative side effects?? I don't want to make my motor have a shortened life span, but want it to be a bit quicker....thanks again...

 

well i would not be supriesed if u went to far and where really hard on it it would shorten it but to thats one of those things thats questionable. the way i see it is there are to many variables in where u are and what u do and how u drive vs. someone else. for example my truck has not pulled a trailer since i got it it has had 3k in the bed and since i have turned it up it has reached and sustained 13 or 1400 deg w/o problems and more then once. some would say the truck shouldn't be running but really it has never run better after thos temps. i know and old mechanic who works on these trucks all the time and he says that if u turn the fuel up the pump will fail after time. how long will it be and was it from what u did. or something else? was it normal wear paticular to that pump that made it fail idk. and really know one could say for sure unless it lasted only a 1/4 or 1/2 of its normal life span.

basicaly what im trying to say is a little bit of extra juice will probably not be a problem tho it is a risk that u have to take. but i feel that w/ the proper gauges, proper maintance and care will negate most or all of the possible problems assosiated w/ the mods.

 

true...i may do that when it isn't cold and windy as all get out... This weather makes truck modding no fun.... Anyways...so as to not waste another thread....what do i need to do maintenance wise? The brake pedal is kinda mushy but it stops fine. I am going to change the fuel, air and oil filters this weekend...any one i should stay away from and any trickS? what about cavitation...where can i buy the additive? thanks

 

I get test strips from a local internatinal dealer and test for dca content of the antifreeze. They also have the concentrate for adding dca to the antifreeze. I also get my filters from them (as they are cheaper). Pays to price around. Even differentFord dealers will give different prices. One here will give list only and another 5 miles further will give 30% discoount. go figure.

 

u can buy most any fuel additive at autocone kragen or whatever u have there diesel kleen which i think is pretty much considered the top one is aslo found at wallmart for a good price probably better then at the car stores. the same company also makes a diesel lube which is an additive in the oil. i have not tried it, i will be, but if its anything as good as the diesel kleen then it will be good for oil delo 400 or valvoine premium blue is good. im running blue and i like it gets about 30's and 40's right now and it has pressure almost right away. i use k&n air and air filters very happy w/ them stay away from fram from what i hear there is a littl piece of cardboard in the filter and it comes loose and block the port to the engine and u then have no oil. trueth in that idk we use them on alot of the older vehicals and equipment and have had no problems yet. but i figure the myth had to start somewhere and a little better filter would be cheap insurance. the fram fuel filters are good so i hear and would not worry about them i forget if this is an auto if it is change that fluid and filter too i used hurst hot shift and have had b&m trick shift makes it shift much better very firm. if its a standard i would change the fluid and put in a good synthic fluid royoil purple or redline i hear are good. might want to flush the radiator while ur thinking about it. 1 thing i do when i change the oil i add lucas oil stablizer(will be trying the diesel lube instead) and i add a thing of engine restore to make sure there is a good seal around the pistions. i noticed a difference and i have no trouble w/ it using oil or hard starting from lack of compression again its a cheap form of insurance. other things would be to check belts and hoses if u havent already make sure they are in good condition check diff fluids and maybe even change that to a good syn gear lube. look at the injector return lines the ones that go from injector to injector to see if there are any leaks this is a common problem more so when u add fuel since its higher pressure these return lines are and easy fix pull the injector line then the return line its a little cap like thing that wraps around the injector and has 2 little o rings very easy to replace and u will know they are bad because u will see signs of fuel leaking out of them. if it starts fine then the glow plugs are probably good for now. thats about all i can think of right now ill post more if i think about them and im sure any i missed will be added by others.

so u know alot of these are not absolutly nessacery but it gives u a base to start w/ so that u know what stage everything is at in maintanice

 

True...what is a CDP?? do i have one i can clean? what is something i can do to eliminate the smoke? as for the gp's...the wait to start light doesn't work....and they are manual now...can i hook them back up to auto run? Sometimes the tranny goes into R, just to sit there and grind and it won't go in unless i roll forward....low fluid maybe?? thanks for all the great information!

 

im not familar w/ cdp did i mention it cause i didn't see it in my post.

to elimante the smoke well u could try a little more timing that way the fuel u see coming out the pipe will be bunred in the cyl or u can back the fuel off. it also depends what elevation are u at ive seen w/ my truck when it was stock i get about oh im guessing 1500 ft idk. someone from the sonora, cali area could tell u better how high up mono way exit is. but 1500 is my guess probably off but somewhere in that range is where my truck will smoke when lugging and im giving it a little fuel. the other thing that would help is the diesel kleen paticuraly the grey bottle. now if u have already run it it may take a couple of tanks but that should help if not then i would say do either the timing or the fuel. also might want to pull the injectors and see if they are dirty.

the tranny might be low or worn out fluid. change it and see if the problem continues.

 

will most definately do that....no somebody else had mentioned the CDP...Its supposed to be behind the intake with a hose...maybe it's 6.9....anyways....is my brake pedal supposed to be kinda mushy and slow? If you hit it once it's kinda slow, but hit it again and its firm....I need help on this last thing real quick....My washer fluid pump must be bad...wherer is it located though?? I looked and looked to no success...I can hit the washer button and i can hear the relay click on the passenger side, but can't hear any motor...i dont think the lines are clogged....any advice? pump is $14 from the autozone....

 

lol this is one i didn't know and had to go look. what i did was push the button and i could hear it. the reason u didn't find it is its in/under the fluid tank. a one piece design. look at the firewall side u will see a little plug thats the motor right there.

for the cdp take the air cleaner off if im not mistaken its the big ol round things attached to the intake. what it does idk but if my thinking is correct then thats it.

on ur brakes do they make a hiss kinda sound whne u press the pedal and it goes a little ways before u actualy get feed back and feel the brakes engage. if so its the same on mine. i think this is normal because before i bought the truck the guy before me had the brakes redone. like the whole system new booster mc pads and wheel cyl. course because the guy knows cars so well he had the whole system replaced so i took it as normal idk maybe its not. somone one who knows more will chime in im sure.
one last thing on the brakes mine takes severl pumps to loose the vacume and stiffen up urs seems to be using alot more maybe ur loosing some vacume somwhere but that shouldn't affect the first push.

 

yeah....mine makes a hissing noise....brakes look okay, and the brake fluid tank is where it should be. brakes are hard to get used to...also the pedal is slow to return back to normal occasionaly...like i lift my foot off and instead of the pedal coming up quick, it comes back leisurely...lol thank you very much...you all have been great help...

 

UPDATE: i decided to check out the pump...it's actually quite small...paid for it and was on my way. Read the directions, and found you actually can replace the pump. About a 15 minute job. Quick and easy...and yup, it works....just needed to be primed a bit. WOW is it easier to drive when you can see....