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Will keep that in mind...I think I'll really enjoy this truck...has all kinds of neat options, 'cept a turbo....but still...I don't NEED a turbo....just want one.... One day left.... oh yeah....does anybody know how much it costs to put an SEIC or AIC in it?
Last edited by powerstroke6ltr; Dec 1, 2005 at 05:08 PM.
Just was reading some stuff....what is the dual mass clutch?? Do i need one, or is the stock one good enough to use? Also, do i need guages....it has not turbo so i should be fine right??? thanks!
the dual mass clutch or dual mass flywheel(dmf) is not very good for those years the new g56 6spd for the dodges has one and its not bad but the old ones on the fords i heard had alot of problems thats about all i know about it except for that its supposed to smooth things out u only need guages if u up the power i have a tranny temp(e4od auto) and a egt since i have no turbo once u start powering it up u will want guages to keep temps in check and from it all melting down
what are some quick cheap things to increase power I can do easily?? I heard something about the injector pump?? I dont want to break anything right away though....However...on the clutch...is there any cheap fix, or will i be fine with it?? I am not sure it is a stock clutch anymore though..
the clutch will wear and have some balance issues if its dual mass or if its an oem replacment if its coverted to a normal one u should be fine the quick power ups that i did on my truck where timing and fuel both dealing w/ the pump both have a little risk involved but realy any changes to stock have some its a matter of how far u go
i don't want to write out all the details to the pump timing here mostly cuz its late for me and im tired if u want them i can email them of pm them to u i just need ur email
both are about 10 min when u know what ur doing and not much longer when ur learning both are easy but can hurt the pump or motor if there is to much mine is a little high and has not had problems yet(only been running w/ it for about 2k miles probably less)
so u know some will not agree w/ my method of doing things basicaly its too crude but oh well it worked for me and im happy w/ it
i jumped my power up to maybe 215 ish over stock 185 torque seems to have gone up about the same amount 360 stock and maybe maybe close to 400 now tho im not sure if my original number are right anyways if u want these mods pm me and i will give them to u
Got her home safely LATE last night!! WOW that was an adventure! Yeah...please do send me that information of pumping up the truck.....i could barely hold 45 on passes, and it accelerates slower than...well....i don't know....smokes like the dickens too....keeps tailgaters at bay though!! though the EPA might come after me...Leaves haze behind me....I am VERy glad the dealer lied to me and told me it didn't smoke...but hey...what can you do...Was like a little kid on Christmas....Here...let me post a link of my new truck... Do the mods require an EGT gauge or anything like that?? how much better is the power "seat of the pants" measured? Thanks for all the help....VERY glad i purchased the truck!
glad to hear you made it ok. check out the smoke since you are now not at 10k ft. and let us know. 185 hp engine is not the peppiest engine but it sure will work for a long time.
smoke seems almost worse at 5,280 ft... Getting a bit concerned something may be wrong...leaks oil too...but hey....i can fix that...the oil is REALLY REALLY black and nasty....is it supposed to be from the soot? The soot in the tailpipe is so bad that crumbles come off if you wipe your finger in the pipe....
Change the oil and put some diesel kleen in the tank and use it at the high end of the specs listed on the bottle then change fuel filter. Probably needs a good change of all filters or at least checked. use a good grade of fuel preferably from a major company and use the diesel kleen or premium fuel. Enjoy
Got pictures up for those who are interested.... I ran some white bottle diesel cleaner...can't remember the name now...hmmmm...and then some STP conditioner on the trip home... I will do a complete filter change on everything...the air filter looks relatively new...it's still white..I will definately enjoy this truck...thanks for all the help...
Got pictures up for those who are interested.... I ran some white bottle diesel cleaner...can't remember the name now...hmmmm...and then some STP conditioner on the trip home... I will do a complete filter change on everything...the air filter looks relatively new...it's still white..I will definately enjoy this truck...thanks for all the help...
Good looking old rig. last time I took my truck up the rockies it smoked so thick I could blot out the sun. Not much air up there.
Got her home safely LATE last night!! WOW that was an adventure! Yeah...please do send me that information of pumping up the truck.....i could barely hold 45 on passes, and it accelerates slower than...well....i don't know....smokes like the dickens too....keeps tailgaters at bay though!! though the EPA might come after me...Leaves haze behind me....I am VERy glad the dealer lied to me and told me it didn't smoke...but hey...what can you do...Was like a little kid on Christmas....Here...let me post a link of my new truck... Do the mods require an EGT gauge or anything like that?? how much better is the power "seat of the pants" measured? Thanks for all the help....VERY glad i purchased the truck!
yeah tweaking the ip and adjusting the timing willmake it a whole new truck i did it and have no regrets except that i can't seem to keep my speed below about 100 well ok maybe below that but i like going fast. ive had it up to whatever the e40d will do when in top gear doing 2600 rpm w/ whatever rear gears it came with i know its over i hunderd since i was clocked at 91 w/ it and it was going alot faster then then yeah u will need an egt guage i have reached and sustained runs making 1400 degrees and had a good little flame out the 6in stack along w/ engouh smoke to blot out the cars behind me which btw if there no turbo like mine and u run it like i do it will smoke the whole time never stops except when the tranny shifts these where the instructions given to me i added my changes to them in () There are 3 bolts screwed in from the backside that hold the pump in position. They have 9/16" heads. A couple are a PITA to get at without a specially bent wrench--the wrenches are available from the tool trucks, but you can build your own if you so desire. Clean the area where the pump mates to the gearcase. You should see some small dash alignment marks--these roughly correlate pump timing position. Now, after you've ran the engine up to normal operating temperature: 1) Shut it off--try moving the pump w/ the engine running you can **** up the geartrain and have a bad day. 2) Loosen the 3 attaching bolts(turn maybe turn and a half)--like I said, it can be a ***** without the fancy wrench. I didn't build one, spent $20 and bought one from Snap-On. Much easier, just my opinion(built mine in about 20 min a few days before). 3) Pay attention to the alignment marks and slowly & carefully rotate the pump towards the passenger side of the engine, until the alignment mark on the pump is about a dime's width from where it started(need a big crow bar for leverage). 4) Tighten the bolts(don't crank down again not much is needed)--yes there is a torque spec, no I don't have it memorized, but you should be able to feel sufficient tightness. If you must have a torque spec any IH or Ford dealer can get it for you in a couple minutes. 5) Start the engine, allow it to idle for a few seconds and listen for any dramatic increase in fuel knock @ idle. Ideally you should notice no difference in idle operation, maybe few RPM higher. That can be adjusted with the idle screw on the pump lever, but if the truck has an auto trans make sure the kickdown cable is adjusted also. Same goes for the cruise cable if so equipped. 6) Slowly ramp the engine up to around 2100 rpm and pay close attention to the sound--if you're getting a very loud hammering-type knock, back the pump off a little bit and repeat the steps above. Snap the throttle open lightly a few times & make sure the engine responds well--a little black puff will be normal but watch for a stumble, bog, and big black clouds out the pipe(s). Again, you should be looking for only a slight increase in sound over baseline, and maybe a touch more smoke if you snap it open. *Make sure you shut off the engine before you move the pump.* Now, this is not anywhere close to being the correct way to do it, but I'd be willing to bet there isn't a mechanic alive who's worked for any length of time on an IDI 6.9 or 7.3 and hasn't done it this way at least once. *IDEALLY* you'll want a timing meter and advance it about 3 1/2 degrees around 1500rpm to start with, and maybe back it off to a final of about 2-2 1/2 degrees at or around 1500rpm. Using the "dime's width" method is close but not exact enough to be perfectly accurate. (I'm stressing perfectly accurate because no matter how innocently advice can be given, they'll always be a "watcher" who pipes up a rebuttle about how "backyard hack" a poster's method is.....just FYI)
Now, too much advance can give a lot of black smoke, a very loud fuel knock, all for no increase in performance over a small advance increase, and many times you'll see a marked decrease in performance if you go too far. This little bit should not be an EGT problem or cause for head gasket concerns--yes you're raising cylinder pressures but not to an extent for alarm. This is not a 50hp super mod, but it'll give enough of a seat-of-the-pants increase that it thats timing to do fuel u will need a 1/4 wrench a 5/32 allen a mirror and a rag to cacth the fuel when it spills outwhat u will do is disconnect the fuel selinoid then place the rag below the little cover plate on the right side of the ip stuff it down on the valley pan also remove air cleaner and throttle cables. remove the two blots and the cover w/ its gasket from the pump and place somewhere safe. next look into the side of the ip w/ the mirror there will be a spot where u see a round shaft. if it is smooth place a screw driver or peice of metal on the 2 starter selinoid posts or have someone crank it just bump it u will see it turn. stop when u see the screw in the shaft. there are to sides to this so it u see a hole and no screw then ur 180 over and keep going till u see the head. now ford says to turn in 60* increments at a time. fowards=more power back=less. when done replace cover and gasket remove the rag put throttle and all that back. start let it idle for a time and take it for a drive. be sure to do some wot(wide open throttle) runs to see what total smoke will be if its too much then back it off if not and u want more power then turn it up more. w/ the added timing u will be able to add more fuel then if it where stock. imo if u want max power w/o the smoke turn the screw till u see just a little bit at wot then back it off just slightly if u don't want any. i did the fuel to make it smoke so i just turned it way up and the timing was meant to use some more of that fuel to make power i then turned around and gave it more fuel. at wot it will go from 0-60 in about 11 seconds which imo is not bad for no turbo. i can almost spin the tires in second gear launch, and they can't hold first. i feel safe passing since it will accelerate properly, when before it would do the typical diesel stumble.the last mod i would do that is free is adust the gov screw on the back of the pump i have't done this yet but hope to soon but maybe someone else who has will chime in on what to do w/ that onein all the cheap little mods really wake the truck up and make it fun to drive. i hope u like the mods and enjoy the truck for a long time to come