Funny thing is, that bearing isn't rotating when the hubs are locked!

So, if you run un-locked with a dry bearing, it'll tear it up, but if you run with them locked, they'll be alright.

Miescha, here's the thing:

The normal operation of the ESOF is that you turn the **** to 4x4 when driving, and it locks the hubs AND locks the transfer case - as in, the front AND rear driveshaft are turning, and with the hubs locked, you get 4x4.

If you switch to manual hubs, the dash switch still locks the transfer case in 4x4, but can no longer control the hubs. So, lock the hubs first, and when moving, move the switch to 4x4, and it'll go right it. So, you can turn 4x4 on and off with the dash switch, but have to remember to unlock your hubs after you're all done so the front axle is free.

4 LOW is where the transfer case uses a gear reduction of 2.9:1 and basically makes your rear (and front) gears 2.9 times the ratio. For me, with 3.73 gears, that's like running with a 10.8:1 rear end! So, you get 2.9 times the torque to the ground, but your top speed is greatly reduced.

Also, with manual locking hubs, you can get the low gear in the transfer case without being in 4x4 which is VERY usefull moving heavy loads and steering at slow speeds. Just don't lock the hubs, and go to 4x4LOW and you'll have a stump pulling machine.

Hope that explains some of it.

 

Krewat:

Thanks, I think I've got it now. With the hubs open/unlocked, the ESOF dash switch will still lock the transfer case and engage the full drivetrain (but I still won't get 4x4 b/c the hubs are open/unlocked). However, this could be desireable as you mention in that I can move the ESOF dash switch to 4lo and take advantage of the gear reduction ratio while still being in 2 wheel drive (nice, say, when moving a heavy trailer in a tight spot without the axle binding of locked hubs).

On the other side, if I keep the hubs locked all the time, I still will not be in 4 wheel drive until I move the ESOF dash switch to one of the 4hi or 4lo settings (thereby locking the transfer case and engaging the full drivetrain). HOWEVER, if I run like this all the time, I will still have to be careful about tight turns on dry pavement b/c I will get axle bind in the front axle (is this right?). And with a 172" wheel base, all turns are tight turns for me!

Thanks again!

Looks like I'll be ordering warn premium hubs. Just curious though, does anyone make an aftermarket auto-lock hub for our trucks? Also, is it still desireable to operate the hubs (switch between open and locked) on a regular basis to prevent freezing?

 

Miescha, the axle bind in tight turns with hubs locked (but not in 4x4) WILL NOT hurt anything! You'll hear the axles flopping around, but there's NO excess wear you have to worry about.

I have not heard of any aftermarket auto-locking hubs for these trucks. But, that doesn't mean they don't exist.

 

Will the Warn #38826 hubs work with a dually? The footnote on the Warn website says no, but this is the only number I see you guys quoting here. The only issue Isee is that I will need to reach inside the extender to turn the hub.

 

I don't know about the warns working or what number to use, but I know the new '06 dually I looked at over the weekend had the factory auto-lock hubs and you would need to reach inside the extender to turn them (I tried it and it wasn't too hard).


Also, I noticed the '05 and '06 SD trucks have different looking from hubs (look alot like the warns actually, with the three bolts around the face and a different handle). What gives?

 

I bought a set of Warns to try - my local NAPA had a set in stock. If my truck was a srw type they would work perfectly. They will not fit because of the hub extender used with the dually. The hole in the extender is too small. The stock locking hub fits inside the bearing hub, while the Warn locking hub sits on top and actually extends a tiny bit beyond the lip of the bearing hub.

 

Well that explains why Warn puts that K for the ford duallys in the notes section. Wonder why they don't make a hub that works for the duallys, for sure it would be a hot item.

 

i have a 1999 s/d dually diesel i put warn lock outs on it i had to take a dye grinder and remove a bure from casting inside hub housing then the warns fit rite in no problems and work great i love them

 

That's interesting. I thought about this, but I would need to remove considerably more metal than just a bur. I suppose I could do this with a die grinder, but the finished product would be far from concentric and balanced. It would really need to be done on a lathe. I still would not recommend it, at least for myself, as I tow a 16000 lb gvw trailer and would fear the liability if something happened and it was discovered that I had intentionally compromised the integrity of the wheel extenders.

 

Will the factory hub covers fit over the warn hubs? I have an 03 w/ alum mags. I am going to switch out my auto hubs too.

 

mine did and i have alum. mags too 1999

 

Thanks, I saw where somebody else had put them on too. They just didn't come out flush.