Just went to warns site, they are the right ones according to the chart,But the difference in the size your saying is very confusing to me , dont go buy the hole in the lugs cover the warns will set back some, i just measured the stocked hups i have stting here and the width is 3 1/4 .

 

oh ya, my box says Part number 38826 Hublock Premium 1 Ton Set mfg date 10/12/05 Cost $165.00

 

Just went out and checked my warns the silver cabs are 4" plus so you'll be fine

 

So let me see. You are saying the warns sit behind the hubcap, not protrude through the hole and you kinda turn them through the hole? I assume your 350 and my 250 have the same setup.

 

Thats it, sits just a little behind the cover very easy to reach and turn. gl

 

Great! Kinda to bad you won't see more of them, they look nice. Now just to find a few minutes to put them on. Thanks Berk.

 

After you install the Warns try and move them up/down, back/fourth , if you have any movement email or call Warn and tell them you have play and they will send you extra snap rings to fix the problem. The guys in the forums say some have that problem, mine were tight no play.Ya be nice if more showed they have a very nice look about them,much better then the stockers (top of the line). Enjoy them, mine are great!.

 

Warn says "1 ton" because the front-end is really a 1-ton front-end, even when it's "only" the Dana 50.

The Warn premiums will fit UNDER the "hub cap" and not protrude through the hole. See my gallery for what they look like on my '01.

art k.

 

Thanks guys. Krewat that picture explains it all.

 

I just put my Warn Premiums on. WOW!! When I took my right hub off I found that it was locked up and frozen ENGAGED! The dial spins but no cigar. When I took the left hub off about a cup of greasy water cam draining out all over my wheel and tire. Boy, is that the best $170 dollars I ever spent! It took me about 45 min., but I took my time and played around with the new hubs before I instaled them. You were right, these things are SOLID!

 

mdpopo59, when I removed my auto hubs, one came out followed by a 1/2 cup of water or so. Turns out the needle bearing where the axle stubs rides in, in the inside diameter of the wheel bearing, was shot too. When you had the hub off, did you check for nice fluid motion of the axle stub? (turn the u-joint by hand).

Even with the hub in, you can check it - make sure it turns nice and easy. Even still, I'd lube it... (have to take off the wheel bearing).

 

There's fluid motion but I didn't look into it any further. Is there any way to tell other than taking the bearing out? I had been pondering doing that anyway, my Haynes manual is not very descriptive about that, they make it sound like it has to be done with a press.

 

With the brakes entirely off, the locking hub removed, and the snap ring on the axle stub removed, just remove the four nuts behind the spindle to remove the wheel bearing. It might not come out easy though... and take care with the ABS sensor - you have to remove the wheel bearing and THEN remove the sensor, so be careful.

The bearing itself can be driven out with a long punch (working around bearing, tapping it out lightly), and then the new one tapped lightly into place with a large socket.

If the axle turns smoothly, it sounds like it's lubed OK, but ... who knows? Not to start you off on more work, you see, just talking

 

Awe, that doesn't sound too bad. Haynes made it look like you had to take the axles out and the ball joints apart, basically disasembling the whole unit. It doesn't look bad now but I'll keep an eye on it, may be a good spring project Thanks for the info.

 

OK, I've read all I can find on this site (which is a lot) and I've learned that Warn Premium hubs are the way to go for my '99 350. But I'm confused on the setup with the stock auto-lock hubs. Can anyone explain the workings of the 4x4 system with stock auto-lock hubs and the shift on the fly (dash switch) in the cab? I THOUGHT the auto position on the hubs was basically open/free unless I rotated the switch on the dash which would lock the hubs (not sure what the difference is between 4hi and 4lo).

BUT, if the hubs are in the lock position, what is the purpose of the dash switch?

Next, if I switch to the warn premium hubs, does the dash switch have any function? It sounds like open/free would keep the hubs open all the time regardless of the dash switch (so 4hi and 4lo would do nothing) and keeping the hubs in the locked position would do . . . I don't know, I give up. Somebody please educate me.

Finally, the dealer called today and said the "grinding" feeling I had in the driver's floor and steering wheel was a number of things that totaled $1,500 (yikes). In particular, both hubs are shot (hence my research on this site and happiness finding this timely thread) and also something about a bearing and axle. I opted for "don't do anything yet" and plan to pickup the truck tomorrow and take a look myself. The dealer has always been very good to me and had no problem with my request that he write up everything I need and the itemized cost. I'll post that tomorrow with many more questions.

Thanks!